Help with Atwood GC6Aa-10E

I have replaced the heating element in off season, new thermo and eco,and just replaced the computer board, still no hot water on electric side? Have read there is a reset,but don't see it outside.
I also read about a relay by the element. I did not notice it when I replaced the element,but wasn't looking for it either.
My water heater does work on propane, however; recently started blowing black soot .
Any help appreciated!

Does your water heater have 12 volt as well. If so,, I’m not trying to be a smart A but are you sure you replaced the 110 thermo and not the 12 volt. It seems strange it’s not working because it appears you have replaced everything,

Also. Have you checked the 110 breaker , maybe it has tripped

I have checked the breaker, it could be I'm an idiot and bought a 110 thermo. Bought on amazon,just checked the thermo/eco and it is 110. I haven't dealt with water heater issues before, but I do belive it's a 12 v part I needed! I will double check and see. Thanks, did not think of that. Just bought the replacement part by model.

Have you checked the relay that controls the 110 volt element?

I attached a schematic diagram from the Atwood manual. When the electric switch is turned on, It should actuate the relay and apply 110 volt to the electric element. You can check for voltage on the element terminals with a volt meter. May help you diagnose what's going on.

Bogie said:

Have you checked the relay that controls the 110 volt element?

I attached a schematic diagram from the Atwood manual. When the electric switch is turned on, It should actuate the relay and apply 110 volt to the electric element. You can check for voltage on the element terminals with a volt meter. May help you diagnose what's going on.

Click to expand...

Thanks, I just went to my local campers world and bought one. $23. Not the easiest place to get at in my unit, but from what I have read,I'm hoping this is it. I do hear a buzz at the new control box. Did not have my meter this weekend. Assuming the buzz is power to the board. My switch ligh is illuminated and my t Stat is the correct part. Fingers crossed. Thanks

Just a thought. When you installed the new element in the off season, if you turned on the heater without water in the heater, you fried your element. Only takes about a second to fry it. Element should be around 10 ohms, when you get a meter.


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