On the slideout's outside side panels. there may be a strip of caulked metal the full depth of the slide. Water runs down the side and hits that and creeps back into the trailer. I added a bead of caulk angled up where that metal passes through the rubber gasket, stopping the water from coming...
After many years of AC use, I have learned that the cheapo filter does very little to stop dust, etc. from collecting on the condenser. Some of it can be vacuumed from below, but its best to take the cover off on the roof, separate the foam covers and clean from there. That'll help the airflow.
The outlet itself may have a bad connection in it. The clamp type connections are notorious for vibrating loose. Make sure to kill the trailer power before removing the outlet,
There is a 12v breaker near you battery that has a small reset button on the side. There are pictures in the tool section of this forum. There may be 2 or more in a row.
My next guess would be something inside the switch may have shorted or broke when your original cord reel failed. I would try a new switch. even though you state you have power though it. It may be failing under load. Even try to bypass the switch to see if the reel turns.
Perhaps the wiring from switch to motor wasn't correctly hooked up. My cord reel is a manual pull out with power coil up. Some I've heard are power out and in. Was your replacement reel an exact match to your old?
Drilling holes in your front cap and running wires can be a daunting task, but if you're handy give Heartland a call... have your vin number ready. The number is under the resources tab or search the forums.
Then it's possible one or both of your sensors have come loose. Depending on you rig the front maybe near the center of the battery compartment and the rear centered behind the rear axle or in between them above the coroplast..
After levelling, do you do a manual calibration? I don't remember the procedure offhand but it should be in the TOOLS section of this forum. This should get it to remember your level.
Some go thru the axle tubes from one side to the other. They rub inside and chafe off the insulation and go to ground. Or the connections are corroded. You need to trace the wiring.
Or you could go to your local home center and purchase a sheet of paneling for bathroom walls with the pattern or color of your choice and cut it to fit the frame. Most are 1/4 to 3/8 of an inch thick.
DC power runs to the ac / furnace control. Thermostat wiring is then run from there to mounted tstat. So if it works at the ac then you have an open in the wiring to the tstat, more than likely a result of your furry intruder.
Another issue may be the sprays are plugged by TP and other semisolids in the tank. Whatever it is, dries out and gets hard.
One time I added another back flow preventer to the outside shower and ran the hot water into the tank flush port. Took a while but it finally broke through.
If there is enough water in the tank and your bypass valves are in the correct position, the pump should run up to pressure. Open a faucet with it running to get all the air out of the system. If it continues to run after the tap is off then there may be a leak. As it is an older RV check at the...
Due to the age of the unit, the grease may be contaminated with dirt and condensation. Injecting new grease could help. The last fifer I had with motorized landing gear had zerk fittings on top of the leg mechanisms.
The vent stack for that tank may have fell further into the tank, not allowing air flow into the tank while dumping. If you take the cap off the top end of the pipe should be at roof level. If you flush your toilet while dumping and more liquid dumps, then the stack is plugged.
When I bought my first travel trailer, the dealer set me up with a sway bar and weight distribution bars and how to set themup. New to rvers need to make sure they are aware of the need to set up there rigs correctly. I currently have a fifth wheel which is much easier to set up and tow, but...
Many people state that trying to remove the bolts from the coroplast covering causes the bolt heads to break off. I would follow the cylinder shaft to the approximate end and cut a three sided flap opening to the rear of the trailer large enough to look in and do some work if needed. After...
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