Recent content by jerryjay11

Most likely when the fridge goes into defrost the GFI treats it as a short which in a sense the defrost heater is kind of a short to neutral. Had to deal with this many times on domestic fridges in homes and recommended to use a non GFI outlet. If it is a used fridge, it may be a defrost heater...

This does occur though if you don't use a water filter at the water supply you will pick up whatever the RV park water supply has in it. Particularly if the supply is from a well.

It was fun reading though most RV owners wouldn't grasp what you were talking about. Otherwise, they wouldn't come here to ask for help. But I did find it interesting.

I believe you mean a pressure gauge to read 55-60 psi. But pressure is not flow. You can have a blockage and read normal pressures. You need to find the restriction. You may have crimped the water lines when installing the new sink.

My head is spinning guys! I've never downsized a capacitor on an AC compressor. My HVAC/R education and experience tells me not to do this. I may use a capacitor with a higher voltage, but the UF must be correct. A google search tells me: Using a smaller capacitor than recommended for an AC...

60/5uF capacitor motor starter for Dometic air conditioning systems not 50/5uf That's what the P/N like taskswap stated. You'll burn out your AC motor with the wrong size cap.

I just did a search for "how to replace a headlight on a 2015 Chevy LTZ DRW C/C" and came up with quite a few.

I've been keeping ours out, but a good point about the seals, Cannondragger.

Just letting you know that, Follow Ignore is all I find after clicking his name. But OHTX and Cookie does work.

Mine was in the breaker panel.

Reseating the circuit board plug may have been the ticket, though I wouldn't doubt just the vibrations of removing and reinstalling the furnace may have rattled the sail switch enough for it to begin working again. In any case you are back in business.

I've pulled my furnace out several times to do a maintenance check. You do not have to remove the exhaust vent to remove the furnace, but it does make it a bit easier to align the furnace exhaust and outside vent. Disconnecting the wires was just removing wire nuts and the LP line wasn't any...

May I suggest using "screw and anchor" for a better hold? I've used them in the past for similar situations.

One way to tell without dumping on the ground is fill the sink with water or pour a container of water down the drain while opening the toilet valve (RV water pump off) and watch for water movement in the black tank. But I would assume it goes to the gray water tank.

Take it from someone who has worked in the appliance repair business. Replacement is always the better financial option unless you have one under warranty. I don't remember ever working on one that wasn't warranted or had a service contract. Below is a link stating just what I said and a bit...