draw string on shades...

deee2

Well-known member
I just noticed for the first time that the draw string on the BACK window shade is extremely frayed. This is not in an area that hits or rubs on anything, so I've no idea how it happened. My question is this, how hard is it to have that repaired/replaced? Is it a DEAR HUBBY job, or would we have to take it in...... and while we're at it, would that be covered under warranty? Can you tell our warranty runs out in three weeks!???
 

lhetsler

Well-known member
Bumper to bumper

Everything is covered on your one year warranty. I had my rear shade replaced because it was warped. If you can't get an appointment before the year is up call customer service and have them make a note of it in your file, have you VIN # ready. Then there will be no question.
 

Tom of Ypsi

Well-known member
You can do like we did and just put in bliinds throughout the coach. This gives us a more homey feeling and just not another factory add on.
 

Ray LeTourneau

Senior Member - Past Moderator
Donna, the shade cords become frayed from being adjusted too tight. It's a bit of a catch 22 because if you don't have them tight enough, they will not stay up.:( They can be repaired by you and your Hubby. I will search for the thread that has the diagram. It's a bit tricky but doable. I replaced the cords in 3 different shades, including the rear big one. I eventually replaced the shades in the big slide and the rear shade with wooden blinds. The shades were just a pain in the tush.
 

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Ray LeTourneau

Senior Member - Past Moderator
Should anyone decide to re-string their Day-Night shades... there are parts and kits available to do the repair....

Doing a simple Google Search... here is one source. The kits come complete with instructions. But I'm betting the kit is missing a package of "Patience"... they can be a little tricky to do.

Link:
http://www.blindrepaircord.com/shades/RV%20parts/RV%20shade%20Blindsparts/rv_repair_kits.htm
Thanks for getting that info Marv. I forgot to mention, I found a substitute for the cord by going to a good sporting goods store and buying Line that is used for bow fishing. It's an 85 or 90# test braided polyester cord. A tad heavier than the factory stuff but it worked great.
 

SmokeyBare

Well-known member
Great Deal Ray !

I did re-string some of the shades in our old 5'er (SOB) a few years back... I could never find anything close to the tiny plastic guide that prevents much of the fraying of the string.

Have I ever mentioned I'm a LiL' Thrifty?!?! Well I ended up using some aluminum Eyelets.. sort of like you'd have in your High Top Sneakers... where your shoe string ran through... Karen had a few of those in her sewing kit.... and it worked fairly well... well enough to not need buying new shades...

Your high grade fishing line was a smart move !! I'll be remembering that tip !

Marv
 

deee2

Well-known member
thank you all for your ideas and comments..... everyone here is just awesome! I think we can do it. If we fix the other problem with the converter or batteries, we'll do fix the shade, too. But if we have to take the Bighorn IN, we may as well let THEM fix it, right? LOL :)
 

TXBobcat

Fulltime
I have been talking to a neighbor here at Elkhart Campground that restrings Day Night Blinds. It is so funny that this pops up.

I was reading the thread from Ray and came upon this part. Thought others might be interested...

http://www.blindrepaircord.com/shades/RV parts/RV Shade home.htm

Day-Night Shade Adjustment & Repair
Most late model coaches are equipped with pleated window shades, commonly known as “day-night blinds” with a shear section for daytime use and a solid section for nighttime use. They are pulled up and down on two to four strings woven through the blind material. The strings on each side are attached to one end of a spring contained within the metal section at the top. The other end of this spring is attached to a string that runs down the inside edge of the covering valance beside the blind to a spool located on the bottom of each side of the blind. The spool has a retaining screw through its center and a tooth on the back, which holds it in position and provides a method of adjusting the spring tension.

These blinds do require some adjustment to operate properly and the adjustment is quite easy to do. The first step is to determine what needs to be done. If the blind is very difficult to raise then the blind needs less spring tension. To decrease the spring tension carefully loosen the spool retaining screw on one side, while holding the spool firmly against the valence so that it does not twist free then rotate the spool counterclockwise 1 turn at a time. Tighten the screw and repeat for the other side. Move the blind completely up and down a few times then check to see if it operates correctly. If not repeat this procedure.

If the blind goes up in a zigzag fashion then one side of the blind has more tension than the other. In this case you may be able to see which side is loose and tighten the spool on that side. If you are unsure I suggest loosening both sides and apply an equal number of turns on the spool until the blind operates correctly. If the tension is too loose then the blind will not stay in position. Again adjust both sides one at a time to place the correct tension on the strings.

My experience suggests adjusting the blind to have sufficient tension to stay in place and no more. This will give you the ability to increase tension should the spring weaken with age and it also places less tension on the strings If the string rubs against the blind mounting hardware it will fray and eventually break.

Restringing the blind is not difficult however you will need to remove the blind from its mounting base. There are a number of different retainer styles, so you will need to examine yours to see what method is required to detach the blind.

Remove the shade assembly from the installation brackets: Raise the shade all the way to compress the fabric. Loosen the tab screw on the back of each mounting bracket. Tilt the back of the headrail down to remove the rail from the brackets . Place the shade assembly on a clean work surface. Note: If you have a steel bracket without the tab screw, the shade may be removed utilizing the same tilting action shown . (If they do not include the stringing needle then get one as well).

Some blinds are held up by a spring steel clip maybe an inch long. One side will have a lip on it, the other side does not. That lip is the key. What I did was take a heavy screwdriver and tried to wedge it between that lip and the top of the blind until it released allowing the blind to drop out. Did the same thing with the other end clip.

Once the blind is removed, rest it on a hard surface. Cut the strings from both hold-downs then proceed to remove the plastic end caps on all rails with a flat head screwdriver. Remove the bottom and top rails from the blind by sliding them off then slide the bottom section of the pleated shade from the center rail. The rails slide off horizontally, and may get hung up on a knob rivet, so be firm, it will eventually slide off. Once the blind is disassembled, proceed as follows.

In the top rail, the cord will be attached to a spring on each side. The cord coming from the left will run down through the left side of the night material. The cord coming from the right will run down through the right side of the night portion of the shade. The cords will cross in the center rail, so that the cord that runs down the left hand portion of the night shade, will cross over and run down through the right hand side of the day shade.

Do the same for the right hand side of the night shade. It will cross over in the center rail and run down through the left hand side of the day shade. Now the cord coming down through the right side of the day portion will once again cross in the bottom rail and exit out of the left hand side of the shade through the end cap, use a threader needle to thread the cords through the holes. Inspect the holes for any burrs or sharp edges as they may damage the cord. After threading the blind, assemble the top rail including plastic end caps.

Remember to stay within the ridges of the PVC. Insert center end caps. Thread the cord through the bottom end caps. There is a right and a left end cap; please check before threading. After inserting end caps, measure and cut cords to required length. After required length has been cut, see illustration on how to tie on the spring tension spool. REMEMBER: Reset the drop of your shade by tying the cord retainers where you need them to be and adjust the tension as needed by wrapping the cord around the cord retainers.

My experience suggests adjusting the blind to have sufficient tension to stay in place and no more. This will give you the ability to increase tension should the spring weaken with age and it also places less tension on the strings If the string rubs against the blind mounting hardware it will fray and eventually break

I did not know that there was a spring in the blind. I have one here that needs to be restrung and will check it out..

BC
 

ChopperBill

Well-known member
d52e3c54.jpg
 

Ray LeTourneau

Senior Member - Past Moderator
Chopper, you must have that jpeg saved on your PC. I just saved it to my Heartland picture folder. Thanks for posting it.
 

Uncle Rog

Well-known member
Thanks Chopper, I feel a whole lot better about changing out my shades as they fail with aluminum blinds..........I guess I am not smart or determined enough to mess with the day night program...............
 
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