Landing Gear Question

itsbeertime

Well-known member
I on occasion camp a few places where I'm on an incline and have to lower the landing gear quiet a ways to get level front to back. Does anyone know how long the main tubes come out? With all I've read here about the gear motor and sheer pins and all breaking I don't want to chance that. Anyone know for sure?
 

boatto5er

Founding VA Chap Ldr (Ret)
I've maxed out at roughly twice the length of the "exterior" tube. However, to avoid getting too extended, I carry several 8" x 8", 2" thick wood blocks and eight plastic leveling blocks. The less I have to extend, the more stabil the front of the trailer.
 

SmokeyBare

Well-known member
But to be safe...

Blocking up the Landing gear legs... when on quite a serious slope can lead to a problem should the trailer move for some reason. Such as when un-hitching... if it moves off the supporting blocking... OUCH.

Be sure to put tire blocks in place to help prevent this from happening... :)

AS ALWAYS.... in my opinion...

Marv
 

skyguy

Well-known member
Sometimes, if I have the option, I will position the coach so that the front end is on the uphill end - I'll get less waggle inside the coach.

I would not recommend using blocks under the landing gear, unless you first mount the in-between-the-wheels type of locking chock so you "guarantee" the coach isn't moving anywhere.

I bought a 4" X 6" X 8' piece of lumber, and cut it (or you can have it cut) into 12" and 18" long pieces for blocks. I didn't pay for the treated lumber, because these aren't outside all the time. I use the 18" on soft ground - I have buried the 12" ones just from the weight on the front end...

If I had to, I think I could trust piling a 12" on top of an 18" piece if necessary, but I would probably look for a better spot first.:eek:

I also have a 2 X 10 X 10 foot board I cut in half to make 2 - 5 foot sections - for use under one set of tires to level left to right when necessary. I made thecut on a 45 degree diagonal, so the tires meet up to a angled board. The only problem with this, is if they both go under the door side tires, that first step is a long ways off the ground!! (Oh well, exercise is good for you, right??) And we also built a platform to serve as an extra step when necessary...


Sounds like a lot of work, but sometimes the extra work for a beautiful "dry camping" spot is well worth it!
 

Edd and Janet

Active Member
We don't unhitch without tire locks in place; nor do we plug in without a surge protector! We've learned some hard lessons.
 

itsbeertime

Well-known member
Thanks all. I never unhitch without chocking the wheels. And I carry some blocks of wood too, but don't like to use more than one or two if I don't have to.
 

porthole

Retired
the in-between-the-wheels type of locking chock so you "guarantee" the coach isn't moving anywhere.

Are you referring to this type of "between the wheels chock"?

929034.jpg


I have a pair and out of curiosity I placed one on each side of my previous trailer and gave a tug with the truck to see just how well they held.

THEY DID NOT.

I did not feel any resistance with the chocks but did hear both chocks being ejected from the tires.
 

boatto5er

Founding VA Chap Ldr (Ret)
But to be safe...

Blocking up the Landing gear legs... when on quite a serious slope can lead to a problem should the trailer move for some reason. Such as when un-hitching... if it moves off the supporting blocking... OUCH.

Be sure to put tire blocks in place to help prevent this from happening... :)

AS ALWAYS.... in my opinion...

Marv

You guys are absolutely right about the chocking. I put the X-Bal's in place first.
 

jnbhobe

Well-known member
If you want the best, get roto-chocks. They will make the wheels slide and not move. They work real good and I've tried them all. The first thing in place and the last thing out !!!!!! Jon ;) ;) ;)
 

SilverRhino

Well-known member
I second the Roto Choks........first and last thing we do when hooking up or parking. These are by far the cheapest insurance and safety device you will find!
 
Cut a pressure-treated 4x4 at 45-degrees on one end and set between/alongside tires on one side--get a close/tight measurement to cut the other end at 45-degrees--guaranteed to be the best between-wheel chocks you can get.
 
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