City Water Filling Fresh Water Tank

I have been on the road for 6 weeks but now that I have been stationary for a week - I finally have determined that my fresh water holding tank leaking out of the fill spout is being caused by the city water.

When I arrived at the campground, my fresh water holding tank was dribbling some. Within 24 hours,water was pouring out despite having the lid closed. I turned the city water off and pumped the water out of the fresh tank and re-opened the connection with the city water. Four days later, I am in the same spot with water coming out of the fresh water tank spout.

Any ideas, suggestions, solutions would be welcome.

Thanks.

Hmmm, makes me wonder. I can pump water out of the freshwater tank thru the drain line to empty it so possibly somehow the water is back feeding. Only issue with that is I have to manually change one of the valves in the bay to allow that. I would definitely check to make sure those valves are positioned as required for normal use. If it took 3-4 days it is definitely a slow leak bypass.

I seem to remember someone saying that the Water Pump had a check valve type diaphragm built into it... sooo if that is correct... the leak into the Fresh Water tank could be back feeding from the water pump... when connected to the fresh water supply... pressure of the "City Water" could be pushed past the diaphragm and into the tank.

I think we are on to something here Marv. Marybeth, if you look in the basement you will find the water pump behind the wall. (Most likely on the off door side of the coach) There is probably 2 thumb valves connected to the pump, one will be turned off because it is used to winterize the coach. The other one is turned, especially if you have been pulling water from the tank. When connected to city water turn that valve off (actually make sure both are turned off) and see if you water problem fixes itself. On these thumb valves if you turn the knob cross ways that means it is closed, if it is aligned with the water valve is is open.

Here is a picture of how your pump may look. The valve on the left is turned off and it is for the winterizing hose, the other valve is for pulling water FROM the tank and is in the on position..


This second picture shows BOTH valves turned off

Pulltab - I will get out in the am and take the access panel off and see if I can locate those valves. It sounds simple enough for me to handle!! I'll let you know how it goes.

I seem to remember have a very simular issue pulling into the annual Heartland IA rally this year. The Heartland maintenance crew got right on it & changed the City water value. When it goes it leaks right back to you and in your basement - No warnings. Check with the factory guys.

I managed to get the access panel off this morning and found - SPAGHETTI!! Imagine my surprise. Nothing looked like the pictures Pulltab sent me. No shut off valves. Probably because my valves are in my UDC. It is siphoning from somewhere, it is beyond my limited capabilities to discover exactly where. My BIL is due on Wednesday and I think I will give him a screwdriver and press him into service.

Thanks for the help guys!

If your Augusta is the same as ours, the ONLY connection between the fresh water tank and the city water system is the plumbing that passes through the water pump. There are no valves in the lines, so have him check for any check valves that could be fouled. One easy fix is to put a quick connect PEX shut off valve on the OUTPUT line of the pump, before it enters the rest of the plumbing. Would only cost $7 at lowes and take 3 minutes to install, if the access panel was already off.

Yep Alan is right Marybeth, if it has no shut off valves you need to install one. Your BIL will most likely know what he is talking about. It really is simple, just cut the line and install the pex fitting. It does take a little effort to fit the lines on as they have to be kind of stretched, but once the line is on all you do is tighten the tube nut and its ready to go. It really wouldn't matter which side of the pump you put the valve on other than if you put it on the output side you could possibly run the pump dry if you had no water in the tank. I would put the valve on the line coming from the freshwater tank myself (just a personal preference.) Obviously you will need to remember to open that valve whenever you need to use the water pump in the future. If you can get to a dealer they can replace the faulty check valve for you and also install the shutoff.

Now that you have found the water pump, THAT is your culprit as it is the only connection to the tank and the freshwater system. The valve has to be leaking.

My thought on installing a valve on the output side is, if water was in the tank and you forgot to open the valve, it would push water to the valve and stop when it reach the correct pressure. If water was in the tank and the valve was on the input side: no water would reach the pump and damage could occur. If no water is in the tank and the pump is running it does not matter where the valve is located, it will be running dry and damage could occur. IMHO.

Thanks guys! I will get a valve and have it ready for him when he gets here. I'll have to make his favorite food to bribe him but that is a small price to pay!

I think I might look at that access panel again and see if some industrial strength velcro would work to keep the whole mess closed. One of the screws was threaded crooked and probably won't hold when it is reinstalled.

Again, thanks for the info. I thought it had to be the pump but it was more intuition than fact. And I had no idea how to make it better.

In the 'classic' Landmark there are 4 thumb-valves that have to be set for various configurations. If you leave it set for freshwater use and hook-up to city water it will fill the fresh water tank even though you still have city water thus allowing the fresh water tank to over fill. Found this out by "accident" if you know what I mean.