Mounting wheel chocks and Tie downs in 3010

Dear new Friends,

Just picked up our 3010 in part because Mike Alpin (Heartland Corp) returned our call when we had questions. Thanks Mike. WE are very happy so far with our unit, but like most people buying a toy hauler, we need to set up the garage to serve our needs. We have three off road bikes (one small), and a small quad. All of these items fit within our hornet hideout with the bikes facing in, in Pingel wheel chocks, with one on the left and one on the right. The Quad fit in the middle without needing a wheel chock, and the third bike went into a wheel chock across ways in the back or near the rear door. I used Ancra tie down mounts for the tie downs. When installing in the HIdeout few could be mounted through the frame, but instead just went through the wood floor. I would prefer to mount through the frame if possible as the bikes don't weigh much (250 lb), but I have a VTX Honda that is 700 lbs. Please help me decide on the most appropriate places to mount my wheel chocks and Ancra tie downs. Thanks in advance.
Dave

What are the "Ancra tie down mounts "

porthole said:

What are the "Ancra tie down mounts "

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Quick release tie down anchors. Rounded base stays inplace. They can be recessed if desired. I use them in my cycle/cargo trailer and in our last toyhauler.

ANCRA Tie-down Anchors

Got it.

That is the "abbreviated" version of what I use in my motorcycle trailer, aircraft track AKA "ATB" (aluminum track, beveled).

The ATB is supposed to be available on the Cyclones, but when I inquired about it I got the "huh - don't know what that is where did you see it was available"?

Couldn't remember where I saw then last night I found it - in the Cyclone owners manual!

After I decide how I will mount the chocks I may add the ATB, mostly 'cause I have the hardware already.

Mr. Cash, once again I would like to thank you for being part of the Heartland RV family. I want to explain that the D rings mounted in the floor are directly screwed into steel C channel. The screws are approx. 2.5" long. If you follow these rings in a straight line from front to back, the steel C channel will run in a straight line for you. Either use a straight edge or chalk line and you will hit the C channel. The fuel cell is located in this area so be careful with the screw length. The fuel cell is around 6" below so you should be OK, I just wanted to let you know it's location. Other than the steel C channel, the decking is 1" plywood and the garage weight rating is 2,500lbs. I hope this answers your questions, but if you have any further questions, please don't hesitate to give us a shout. Take care, Mike

Mike,
Sorry I spelled your name incorrectly. Additional guidance could be helpful. The C channel doesn't line up with where I need to drill the holes. Further, the Ancra tie downs and the Pingel wheel chocks require bolts and nuts. So I will either try to place a buffer between the lengthwise channels since they do not touch the wood decking or just drill rely on the one inch wood decking and a large washer. I will probably need to drain the gas tank and lower it down to get behind it to put on the nuts, but it appears to be just a few places that it is held to the underbelly. Seems simple enough, but it never is. Thoughts?

dj,
You can bolt them down with fender washer with no trouble. I did ours that way, Holding fine for over 3 years now.

Put my Electric Glide in today to see how I will mount things.

The tie down rings are woefully inadequate.

One short in the rear center due to the storage bins and the outboard rings are to close to the center.
They are mounted at the frame rails.

For the dirtbikes, if you tie them in using this method (with the aircraft tiedown rails) you don't need chocks. For the heavier, and probably longer, streetbike, not sure.

The aftermath

I like how clean the rideblue option is, but I can't tell what keeps the bike standing or from sliding. I ended up going with what I am use to. The fuel station does reduce your options in mounting through the floor, but I suppose you can lower the fuel containing and then mount the wheel chocks. What I did was carefully measure my distances and was able to mount with a 1/4 inch to spare. I mounted 3 Pingel wheel chocks 5.5 inches from the slider door for the two outside chocks and 6 inches for the middle chock. So looking in from the drop down garage door you see three chocks evenly placed across the front of the garage facing the slider. Pingel has four bolt throughs for each chock with a large washer underneath. I am going to use the 3 tie down rings that came with the Cyclone instead of putting in the Ancra tie downs. They wont be evenly spaced from each chock, but I don't think they will need to be. The rings are at least 4 inches a head of the mounting tabs for the chocks and about eight inches to the outside of the chocks. This is within the specifications of the wheel chocks to pull the bikes forward into the chocks. I will mostly have our offroad bikes loaded up, but occasionally might have our VTX. The vtx will receive a few more tie downs. Hope it all works.

Ran across this company www.boliton.com in a toy hauler magazine several months ago. Looks like it might work for dirt bikes and they do have chocks for big bikes.

I should have searched the forum before I posted this reply. Truknutt mentioned boltiton.com on 6-30-09 in another thread.

HarleyRyder said:

Ran across this company www.boliton.com in a toy hauler magazine several months ago. Looks like it might work for dirt bikes and they do have chocks for big bikes.

I should have searched the forum before I posted this reply. Truknutt mentioned boltiton.com on 6-30-09 in another thread.

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Here's the link for Bolt It On. This is a neat system that allows complete removal for garage floor use; no more stubbed toes.

Thanks for the nod HarleyRyder...

rideblue said:

For the dirtbikes, if you tie them in using this method (with the aircraft tiedown rails) you don't need chocks. For the heavier, and probably longer, streetbike, not sure.

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Aircraft track is what I want to use. You have yours near the sidewall, how did you get to the underneath?

On mine the bodywork wraps around the bottom and is sealed to the first inner frame rail.

I didn't bolt them through the frame rail. I used 1 inch self tapping ( I think they were self tapping) wood screws. They are plenty strong since there are a lot of holes to screw through. I have had 3 bikes, one utility quad and one sport quad back there, all tied into the tie downs.

Has anyone tried the Bolt-It-On

I came across these on another message board. Seems you could configure it to hold whatever you wish utilizing the provided mounting points through the C-channel. Just a thought and I am looking forward to hearing from those who have used it.

rideblue said:

I didn't bolt them through the frame rail. I used 1 inch self tapping ( I think they were self tapping) wood screws. They are plenty strong since there

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I don't think I will trust wood screws, even if I can use them every 4".
Just something about the dynamics of an 800 pound bike that I spent a few bucks on.

When the winter bike show come around I will pick up my ATB in 10' lengths (because of the UPS 8' max)..

Then in the spring I'll figure out some way to secure it to the floor. I may use wood screws for some of the holes, but if I can't get to steel then it will be through bolts and washers at least.

I will probably keep the current tie downs in place but I will be replacing the self tappers with through bolts and nuts.

jgdds said:

I came across these on another message board. Seems you could configure it to hold whatever you wish utilizing the provided mounting points through the C-channel. Just a thought and I am looking forward to hearing from those who have used it.

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I have this in my 3210. I tie down a HD Ultra Classic and a Sportster. Once the initial configuring is done they're great. When we want to use the garage for an additional room, just undo the 2 J-hooks and set the entire system aside. The chocks are part of the system so they go, too! Only thing left on the floor are the factory d-rings. I have also tied our bicycles to this on occasion.

It's not a C-channel but square tubing that's all powder coated.

The Bolt-on folks answer e-mailed questions really quickly, too!!!

See posts 11 & 12 above.

I looked at the stuff Dave is using but for me it was too intrusive.

Most of the time I will only have one bike in the trailer.

Using the chocks I use allow me plenty of room for the pups with a little left over for me to watch the "spare" TV.

And there is no bar to trip over going between the garage and the living room.

That's a pretty sweet setup Trucknutt. Does it scope out to the width of our garage in these Cyclones? (something like 96" wide...)
IIRC, we only have 2 factory D rings up in the front of the garage, so are you just securing this to those 2 D ring tie downs?
Looks great, might have to get one of these.
At some point, we may look into a RZR, but it looks like this could still work with that since you can reposition the tire mount where needed, right?

One more thing, do these transfer over to being able to use in the back of our trucks as well?

Thanks again all.

Manke3010 said:

That's a pretty sweet setup Trucknutt. Does it scope out to the width of our garage in these Cyclones? (something like 96" wide...)
IIRC, we only have 2 factory D rings up in the front of the garage, so are you just securing this to those 2 D ring tie downs?
Looks great, might have to get one of these.
At some point, we may look into a RZR, but it looks like this could still work with that since you can reposition the tire mount where needed, right?

One more thing, do these transfer over to being able to use in the back of our trucks as well?

Thanks again all.

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They have different widths 67", 77", 80", 88" & 95"..just tell 'em which you need. There are multiple adjustments so you just have to center the J-hooks over your d-rings. I have 3 d-rings across the front wall of the garage so my hooks are out closer to the support brackets. I do only use the 2 d-rings.

I will tell you this..when the system is inplace I cannot open the door from our "living area" but, with the tie down strap hooked to the left front d-ring it wouldn't open anyway. (Our entry door is to the left as you look towards the front of the garage.) If you had the sliding door option it would be possible to enter the garage while your "toy" is still tied down.

I would just use the factory d-rings if I had a RZR.

I suppose you could use it in a truck bed if you had the d-rings to fasten it to.