wheel bearing grease - what brand and type

mdhill

Active Member
I would like to know type or brand of grease Lippert uses on wheel bearings.When I add a squirt I want to make sure it is compatible. Could not find a website for Lippert.

Have noticed in pictures some of the Cyclones have a nice plastic
label in the entry area that indicates model. Is that only on certain
model? My new 3850 has none.
 

jbeletti

Well-known member
mdhill,

Not sure we're going to have that data. Please contact Lippert tomorrow at 866-524-7821. Circle back here to let us know what you find as it may be helpful to others.

Thank you,

Jim Beletti
 

cdbMidland

Past Michigan Chapter Leader
That question was asked at the rally when Lippert did its vendor presentation. They passed out several different manuals. The recommended greases are:

  • Mobil Oil's Mobilgrease HP
  • Exxon/Standard's Ronex MP
  • Kendall's Kendall L-427
  • Ashland's Valvoline Val-plex EP Grease
  • Pennzoil's Premium Wheel Bearing Grease 707L
Basically look for the following specs:

  • Thickener type - Lithium Complex
  • Dropping point - 230 degrees C (446 degrees Farenheit) minimum
  • Consistency - NLGI No 2
  • Additives - EP, Corrosion & Oxidation Inhibitors
  • Base Oil - Solvent Refined Petroleum Oil
  • Base Oil Viscosity - @40 degrees C (104 degrees F) 150cSt(695 SUS) Min.
  • Viscosity Index - 80 Minimum
  • Pour point - -10 degrees C (14 F) Minimum
I'm an accountant, not an engineer, so I don't really know too much about what I typed - just copying from the spec sheet.

Make sure the bearing is clean, but don't leave it dry for very long as it oxidizes rapidly.


  1. Tighten spindle nut to approximately 50 ft-lbs and rotate hub.
  2. Stop hub, back off nut so you can tighten by hand.
  3. If spindle hole aligns with slot in nut, install cotter pin or bend over locking tab of tang washer.
  4. If it doesn't align, back nut off until it does, never go in the tighten direction.
 

sailorand

Past British Columbia Chapter Leader
I have used Pensoil 707L grease for the last 3 years, all put in the bearings from the Zerks grease fitting.
I am just finishing replacing all the suspension hangers and removed the brake drums to inspect them. I had some greas contamination coming from the grease seals and there was way too much grease inside the wheel hub. Lots of brake clean and new grease seals. I think my next greasing of the bearings will be to take them apart and do them the old fashion way.
 

TXBobcat

Fulltime
Boy does is that good information Chuck. Only thing is the OP asked about how to SQUIRT the grease into the bearing. I don't think he is considering to hand pack the bearings.

MDHILL.
I would like to suggest that you learn to pack your bearings your self or take it to a place that can pack them. If you squirt grease into the bearings and either don't get enough in to replace the old grease or you get to much in and bursts the seal and it comes out on your break pads.

I know it is much easier to use a grease gun and squirt a bit of the ole grease into the bearings.. But take it to a good trailer place (doesn't need to be your dealer) and have them lube the bearings and check the brakes yearly.

FWIW
BC
 

mdhill

Active Member
That question was asked at the rally when Lippert did its vendor presentation. They passed out several different manuals. The recommended greases are:

  • Mobil Oil's Mobilgrease HP
  • Exxon/Standard's Ronex MP
  • Kendall's Kendall L-427
  • Ashland's Valvoline Val-plex EP Grease
  • Pennzoil's Premium Wheel Bearing Grease 707L
Basically look for the following specs:

  • Thickener type - Lithium Complex
  • Dropping point - 230 degrees C (446 degrees Farenheit) minimum
  • Consistency - NLGI No 2
  • Additives - EP, Corrosion & Oxidation Inhibitors
  • Base Oil - Solvent Refined Petroleum Oil
  • Base Oil Viscosity - @40 degrees C (104 degrees F) 150cSt(695 SUS) Min.
  • Viscosity Index - 80 Minimum
  • Pour point - -10 degrees C (14 F) Minimum
I'm an accountant, not an engineer, so I don't really know too much about what I typed - just copying from the spec sheet.

Make sure the bearing is clean, but don't leave it dry for very long as it oxidizes rapidly.


  1. Tighten spindle nut to approximately 50 ft-lbs and rotate hub.
  2. Stop hub, back off nut so you can tighten by hand.
  3. If spindle hole aligns with slot in nut, install cotter pin or bend over locking tab of tang washer.
  4. If it doesn't align, back nut off until it does, never go in the tighten direction.


Good answer...right from Lippert site . I will eventually have bearings packed, but can buy some time by giving a squirt every 6 months or so.
Thanks all for good advice and answers.
 

Rigmover06

Well-known member
Major Mods

I use grease for my driveline and steering and suspension on my truck.
I made some modifications and swapped out my grease bearings for oiled bearings. I used the same axles as supplied but changed out the hubs and drums to the oiled type as we have on our steering axles on our big trucks.

It took me 4 hours to do it all but to my warped way of thinking it will last longer and run cooler. This as well all I have to do is pop the cap,look and see my oil level and carry on.
If anyone is interested in doing the same I can send the complete parts list and numbers.
 

Detmer

Member
When using the hub grease fittings to grease the bearings you might want to try using a Pistol Grip style grease gun. The movement of the lever is much less than a conventional pump style grease gun therefore putting out a less amount of grease.This might help you from putting too much grease in the hubs.
If you wish to hand pack the bearings I would recommend tracking down a "bearing packing tool". Sears might have them. I know if you track down a Snap-On dealer or a Matco tools dealer they will have one. This tool will actually push the old grease out while pushing in the new grease all in about a 4-5 second push on the plunger.
 
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