how to get to converter?
- Thread starter tmcran
- Start date
Not sure about the Sundance but on the Agusta I had to remove the panel by removing the screws some of the screw you may have to look and search for as they tend to blend in. Once inside I found my converter lying on the floor? I mounted mine on the wall to get it off the floor in the event of a water leak.
Hope this helps.
Hope this helps.
2010augusta
Well-known member
Ditto: remove the panel and crawl in through the small openings.
JohnDar
Prolifically Gabby Member
On the 3670, the panel on the ODS has four screws in the center joining it to the other panel. There are 3 more that come in from the UDC that need to be removed to get the panel out. The panel on the DS needs to have the cover for the W/D plumbing removed to get it out, along with detaching the electrical and cable outlets. The screws can be a PITA and may get balled up with fibers from the black panel covering.
Once you get the panels off, it's hands and knees in confined, dusty and spaghetti piled quarters to get at anything back there. Have your favorite expletives ready to utter.
Once you get the panels off, it's hands and knees in confined, dusty and spaghetti piled quarters to get at anything back there. Have your favorite expletives ready to utter.
wdk450
Well-known member
Easier Access
Since I had a leak in the icemaker water line and the shutoff is is in the "rat's nest" of plumbing behind the panels, I got some removable pin hinges and some suitcase pull latches (I found some latches with a "claw" catch instead of the "button" type). The hinges went in the center end (I had to space 1 side of the hinges out with machine nuts because of the angles) and the latches went on the panel end near the UDC. Now I can simply unlatch and swing out the panel for small access, or unlatch and remove the hinge pins for total panel removal.
On the 3670, the panel on the ODS has four screws in the center joining it to the other panel. There are 3 more that come in from the UDC that need to be removed to get the panel out. The panel on the DS needs to have the cover for the W/D plumbing removed to get it out, along with detaching the electrical and cable outlets. The screws can be a PITA and may get balled up with fibers from the black panel covering.
Once you get the panels off, it's hands and knees in confined, dusty and spaghetti piled quarters to get at anything back there. Have your favorite expletives ready to utter.
Since I had a leak in the icemaker water line and the shutoff is is in the "rat's nest" of plumbing behind the panels, I got some removable pin hinges and some suitcase pull latches (I found some latches with a "claw" catch instead of the "button" type). The hinges went in the center end (I had to space 1 side of the hinges out with machine nuts because of the angles) and the latches went on the panel end near the UDC. Now I can simply unlatch and swing out the panel for small access, or unlatch and remove the hinge pins for total panel removal.
Had to replace mine today in my 2010 Sundance 3200RE. After pulling all of the aft walls out of the basement I discovered it is "conviently" located behind the bottom step to the bedroom (5th wheel)! It is accessable from inside the RV by removing the bottom step. The screws are hard to see because of the carpet. Then it is readily accessable to R&R. The unfortunate part is you need to remove the doorside back wall of the basement anyway due needing to reach the A/C receptable to plug in the converter.
