Winterizing without anti-freeze?

Our neighborhood has become unfriendly in regard to storage of campers so I have to store my cyclone at work (indoors) but no land line power to keep the interior above freezing this winter.
We will go out camping multiple times this winter and I do not want to have to have to winterize the plumbing with anti freeze and have to flush out the system multiple times. I am worried that by using air to blow out the system I will not be able to empty out the water pump or the bottom of the hot water tank and freeze damage expensive stuff.
Has anybody had experience with this?

Thanks
Erik

before going full time, i never winterized with anti freeze. i always used compressed air, and never had a problem. just open every low point drain and let all the water drain out, remove the plug from the water heater and let all the water out there as well. (may have a rod instead of a plug) i made an air hose adapter to connect to the city water inlet. start with all the faucets and drains closed, and open them starting at the one closest to the inlet connection. close that one, let the pressure build back up and open the next one. keep running air through each faucet until no water comes out. don't forget about the toilet or the shower. don't forget the outside shower if you have one. for the water heater, leave the plug out and run air through the system until no water comes out the hole. when you're all done, leave all the faucets open including the shower and the toilet. for the toilet a 2x2 stuck into the "opening" will keep the valve from closing all the way. this will keep the valve from freezing and cracking. lastly, add a little anti freeze to each sink drain. once again, don't forget the shower.

If you have a washer/dryer, they recommend you run some anti-freeze through it on a cycle. Not sure if pushing air through the system will get that cleared. Also lacking a place to do it, I may have to have the dealer winterize my unit.

Thomasinnv (Dennis) has it exactly right. I have followed the same routine that he specified for fourteen years with no problems. I live in the Gettysburg area of PA and the temperatures in winter sometimes drop to near zero and are frequently in the teens or low twenties. Cold enough. I have to admit that his suggestion about the 2X4 on the toilet peddle makes sense. I'll do that this year. If you follow his directions you won't go wrong.
Clark
Clark

Make sure you dial your air pressure down. 20 psi is plenty to do the job.


Mike

mjatwalker said:

Make sure you dial your air pressure down. 20 psi is plenty to do the job.


Mike

Click to expand...

Nothing wrong with 40psi; that is the water pressure most regulators are set for. A blast of air is preferred to just a gentle breeze. The blast blows water out of any low dips in the lines. The water remaining in the hot water tank after simply draining will cause you no problems if/ when it freezes.

I have done it that way for the last 15 Years, I usualy use the hot water tank as a pressure tank, that is after it was drained, and that way air comes out the taps faster. and the tank has a releif valve. I also disconnect the water pump. For the washing machine I run through a cycle with air and then run a cycle with Antifreeze. Sorry not 15 years 4 of those I was in Florida. Air is cheap and you have no antifreeze to run through the system. The last time last fall I used my small airnailer Compressor and it did fine. I find that if air is run through the air adopter for the city water it does not run very fast at the taps. Faster air carrys all the water laying in the line, usual just a small shoot is enough and move on the the next tap. I do all my taps twice to make sure no water laying in the pipes.

I appreciate the advise, I had forgotten about the washing machine pumps, I may just yank it out for the season. We do not do much dry camping in the winter.
Thanks again,
Erik

Its a big job to take mine out I prefer winterizing it. need to knock door frame down. I had washer prep and never blew air in the lines as long as they are not opened while winterized. or disconnect the hoses from the washer. Don't forget to keep the trap full of antifreeze or it will smell.

One thing you guys forgot to mention was to blow air through the black tank rinse valve.
This year we have not been able to get the taste of the RV anti-freeze out of the line, especially to the kitchen. So, this year I will again use anti-freeze because we do have a W/D to protect but as soon as I am satisfied the W/D prep is done I will then blow the anti-freeze out. I am hoping that way the taste in the water lines will not re-occur next year. Comments?