Water Pump Pressure

We just bought a 2010 2900mk.Love the trailer,no serious issues with it,just normal adjusting.One thing i'm curious about is the water pump pressure,it really lackes compared to our last fifth wheel.Also this pump seems to be alot louder than our last unit.Just wondering if all the pumps are like this.thanks

Which pump do you have with the Sundance? Is it black or silver?

Hi there,

I had very low water pressure in my 3300BHS when I got it. I adjusted the pump pressure at the set screw on the pump head. I also added a cushion tank in the plumbing system. Now the pump is quieter and has as much pressure as in my house.

Guy

I had low pressure on a used sundance.I found it to be caused by about 3 excess feet of suction hose before the pump.The pump was collapsing the suction line.I removed the old hose and replaced it......good flow afterwards for now.

I looked at the water pump and half is black,the plastic part and the the metal part is silver.Pretty much 50/50.One thing I noticed is that there is a filter just before the pump inlet and i'm thinking that would be decreasing the presure.

So you have this pump:

And it specs are:

• Flow rate: 2.8 GPM
• Shut-off pressure: 45 psi

You might consider upgrading to the Extreme 5.7 Pump:

• High Flow (over 5.5 GPM )
• Shut-off pressure: 65 psi

I believe that is what we have and it is great. We have a residential shower head and have removed the flow restricters from the faucets. We do not boondock very often, but the big pump is nice when we do.

We don't dry camp very often, but when we do I am always greatly pleased by the way our water pump functions. We get better water pressure with the pump then when we are on city water. I was bragging about this to a fellow camper, who happened to be a pilot and aircraft engineer, who suggested we run the pump even when we are connected to city water then we would always have good pressure. I have never done so because I always thought it was a real no-no. I have meant to pose this question on this forum and now I have finally gotten around to it.

I do not think it would do much since the pump "senses" up-stream pressure at the check valve and only runs when the water system pressure is less than the "kick-on" pressure of the pump. Most city water system should surpass this pressure. Additionally, the check valve itself is being held closed by the city water pressure, and due to the tapered design the pump pressure would have to be a bit more than the city pressure to even open the valve.

Short version: I don't think it will do anything.

My $.02

Open the Arteries on Water Pump to let it Flow!

I had similar disappointing water flow when using our water pump in the Landmark. It has a 5.7 GPM pump with sensor flow control, but it ran full throttle all the time and delivered poor pressure and volume in the kitchen. I made two modifications to our system: 1. Installed 2 gal accumulator tank, which also helped pressure at the kitchen sink and reduced pump run time; 2. installed a 90 degree elbow in the incoming source hose for the pump. In attached pictures (if it works) you can see the pinched hose going into the pump - this was an immediate problem - it forces the pump to work harder to get water through the constricted space, reducing it's effectiveness. No wonder it pumped hard all the time it was in use without good result. I asked someone from the factor about this at the Goshen Rally in June. He told me the pump manufacturer suggests using a soft hose to reduce noise when the pump is used.

Since these two modifications, we have great water pressure at all outlets, the pump runs so quiet that it is hardly noticeable. In fact, after putting in the elbow joint to open the pinched line, I had to crawl into the basement and listen to be sure the pump was actually working.

This may not be the solution you need. But I hope it helps.

Victor