Leaking tank valves

bobeldridge

Member
We have leaking valves, (Black tank and one of the gray tanks) and need to make the repairs ourselves since we are in an area with no close service dealers. Does anyone have the schematics for a Landmark Monticello 2005? We cannot find the information in the owners manual and are not sure how to access the valves since they are behind the docking station.
 

jbeletti

Well-known member
Bob,

The valves are not behind the UDC. The valves are on the output of each tank (1 black and 2 grays). The valves are cable-actuated. A cable connects to each valve and then back to the handle in the UDC.

So, your tanks are under the floor, between the frame rails. Please call Heartland Customer Service at 877-262-8032 to find out the location of the tanks.

To access the tanks, you will have to remove the corrugated plastic underbelly material in the area of each tank. Then remove some flex-foil insulation and fiberglass insulation.

If you are doing this repair on your own, once you establish the tank locations, I suggest you do an inspection of each tank valve before you tear into the repair. You may find out that it's not a leaky valve but something else. And maybe with just one tank, not 2 or 3.

Best of luck.

Jim
 
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bobeldridge

Member
Plumbing

Thanks for your reply. I will do as you suggest and call Customer Service. I was hoping for an easier access to the valves and tanks.

Bob
 

JohnDar

Prolifically Gabby Member
We have leaking valves, (Black tank and one of the gray tanks) and need to make the repairs ourselves since we are in an area with no close service dealers. Does anyone have the schematics for a Landmark Monticello 2005? We cannot find the information in the owners manual and are not sure how to access the valves since they are behind the docking station.

A quick field fix, if the valve(s) are leaking and not the plumbing or tank is to attach a twist-on Valterra valve to the sewer connection. A short clear extension between the sewer and the valve will allow you to see if there is liquid leaking into the pipe. That will allow you to connect/disconnect your sewer hose without getting a nasty shower until you can get to a service center. Do the valves feel "springy" when closing them and they don't seem to go quite all the way in? If yes, something is probably stuck in the seat for the valve gate. I run into this with the black tank and usually get it cleared by back flushing or running the tank flusher for a while, closing and opening the valve every two minutes until it feels "right." Look around under your rig, is there any dripping when the tanks are full? That would indicate a plumbing/tank leak. You might be able to see if there is any evidence of leaking by pulling the basement wall and looking around inside, before dropping the belly. If the plumbing is leaking inside the trailer, your nose will probably tell you before your eyes do. If it's just liquid behind the cap when you remove it (been down that road with previous TT), it's the valve.
 

jmgratz

Original Owners Club Member
Like others have said make the checks before tearing into it. It is a BIG job to remove the underbelly and get to the tanks. It is really had to do it by yourself (been there done that). Is is possible to call a mobile RV repair if you are not able to do it yourself? Most RV Parks can recommend one if a shop is not close.
 

bobeldridge

Member
Thanks for the input. I have added a Valtera slide valve to the hose outlet which has stopped the leaking of fluids. The problem is likely due to the valves not closing due to "junk" in the black tank. I am going to do some serious flushing of the tanks before opening up the underbelly.

Bob
 

newbie

Northern Virginia
Bob,

Two of my valves leaked just like yours. I also installed the twist on gate valve at the end of the drain pipe and it allows me to remove the cap without the goop dumping out.

I also took apart gray valve #2. Taking the valve apart was fairly easy. I accessed it by removing a few screws from the the underbelly and pulling it down. I had a couple of large (silver dollar) sized flakes of hardened abs glue wedged in the gate of the valve. Putting it back together was a huge PITA. I would not attempt to reassemble the valve upside down from under the camper. It was really, really tough to get everything back together (upside down, contorted and gray water trickling down my arm.) You have to set about 8 screws and hold the rubber seal in place all at the same time and everything keeps falling out because it is upside down.

If I attempt to take apart the black valve, I would cut the abs pipe with a sawzall and remove the valve from the tank (I'm pretty sure it threads in). With the valve removed and on a work bench, it would be very easy to disassemble, clean and reassemble. To reinstall, I would used fernco couplings (http://www.fernco.com/plumbing/flexible-couplings) to reconnect it to the abs pipes.

Hope this makes sense. If you decide to have at it, send me a PM and I can tell you everything I can remember from my experience removing the valve.

John
 
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