procedure for landing gear drop

Bobby A

Well-known member
Hears a question I've never thought about till yesterday after watching the next door neighbor pull in at the c/ground, with a 5th wheel.
What is the correct method of dropping the landing gear ?? Are you supposed to put the pin in the exact hole on both sides and build up with a peace of wood if one side is higher than the other ?? Or, do you just drop the landing gear and use the switch to extend the landing gear legs and when the legs hit the ground the pin will click in what ever hole comes first ?? What does Lippert recommend ?? I guess I would like to know what the correct way of doing this is. Thanks
 

caissiel

Senior Member
In the manual it says to do the pin in and put a proper shim. With all the camping for the last 17 years I just put the 2 x 6 x 12 under the pads and and let the pins snap. These unit are much heavier and may not twist as much, I might start looking in the proper practice and carry a 3/4 in plank in case.

I did not put a flat board under the pad on my new trailer in the grass and the pad bend a bit, so make sure there is additional support under the pads. I would say minimum 2 x 6, that works good for me.
 

2010augusta

Well-known member
We always just lower the legs to a few inches off the ground and push the pins in to make sure the pins go through all the holes. Then push the switch to lower the legs to the ground and take some weight off the truck.
 

Two Hands

Well-known member
I have often wanted to ask this same question, only in a little different way. It is just difficult to word. It seems like there should be some sort of ratio of how far you should extend the landing gear before dropping the inside legs. In other words you could have the landing gear completely retracted upon arrival and remove the snap lock and drop the leg. But that seems like it would be putting too much weight on the smaller inside leg. I try to extend the gear until I have about half the distance or less left to drop the inside leg. I don't know if that is the right way to do it or not. And I know I'm turning a simple matter into a more complicated question.
 

caissiel

Senior Member
Maybe you are right, but I just drop the the inside legs and jack the trailer. Never got caught with the legs to low yet in 17 years. But I have seen some RVing video that the legs are not fully up. I back then right up every time.
 

Ray LeTourneau

Senior Member - Past Moderator
I have often wanted to ask this same question, only in a little different way. It is just difficult to word. It seems like there should be some sort of ratio of how far you should extend the landing gear before dropping the inside legs. In other words you could have the landing gear completely retracted upon arrival and remove the snap lock and drop the leg. But that seems like it would be putting too much weight on the smaller inside leg. I try to extend the gear until I have about half the distance or less left to drop the inside leg. I don't know if that is the right way to do it or not. And I know I'm turning a simple matter into a more complicated question.
Two Hands, you do almost exactly as I do. I always lower the legs with the motor about 4 or 5 inches then drop the inner legs. This way, if you pull in to a site and your "Nose" is too high, you have 4 or 5 inches to bring it down to level. It just gives you that much more adjustability. I also have a leg leveler on one leg that allows me to fine tune the side to side adjustment in case the terrain under the landing gear is not equal. One thing I have different than some is our rig is a 2007. We didn't have the drop frame in the front under our basement area. Our frame is the same level front to rear so we have more leg length to play with.
 

TXBobcat

Fulltime
Ok, I think one thing is being forgotten here..

FIRST you level your trailer from side to side.

Then you drop your landing gear, as Ray indicatd, enough to give you room to drop the nose if necessary. Then you drop the legs to the ground using the hole closest to the ground. If it is necessary I would raise the landing gear a little bit to get it into the closest hole near the ground.

Yes one leg could extend a hole or two different because of the lay of the land. But don't keep them the same holes because it could twist the frame.

That's how I do it.

BC
 

Bobby A

Well-known member
I have often wanted to ask this same question, only in a little different way. It is just difficult to word. It seems like there should be some sort of ratio of how far you should extend the landing gear before dropping the inside legs. In other words you could have the landing gear completely retracted upon arrival and remove the snap lock and drop the leg. But that seems like it would be putting too much weight on the smaller inside leg. I try to extend the gear until I have about half the distance or less left to drop the inside leg. I don't know if that is the right way to do it or not. And I know I'm turning a simple matter into a more complicated question.

I have noticed that the LESS you have to extend the landing gear, the more stable (less bounce or sway) you get while walking in side the unit. I made blocks with 2X12 treated lumber, glued and screwed, at times I have used up to 12 inches of block on the ground so I don't have to extend the landing gear so much, and what a difference it makes on stability. Just one word of caution, doing this method you MUST make sure your wheels are chocked real GOOD, thats where the roto chocks are worth the money.
 

TXBobcat

Fulltime
I am not trying to start a problem but I would like to express my opinion about putting large blocks under the landing gears.

If you ever park on a slanted ground or you start to hook up to the trailer you can knock the trailer off the blocks. I strongly do not suggest doing this. My trailer has slid a short amount and if it had been on tall blocks you can drop it onto the TV bed and/or drop it onto the landing gears and bend one. There is a lot of weigh on the landing gears.

That is how I see it others have their way. That's Ok too.

BC
 

caissiel

Senior Member
I agree also. I had manual jacks on my 1st trailer and used 6 x 6 blocks to save cranking. One day my friend for some reason volunteered to move my trailer to an other spot. Well he backed against the pin to hard and the trailer bumped backward. The trailer fell off the both 6 x 6 and it just missed his box. Now I just place the 2 x 6 x 12 under the jacks.
The jacks on the lower framed fronts are no lower then the previous model, they are standard jacks that have to be clearing the top of the front doors. The lower anchor is not lower for that reason.
I have been looking at the possibility to lower it for more stability, and sealing the floor.
 

smday

Well-known member
I third that. don't go to hi on your blocks. And still have good wheel chocks. Also if you try to have more of the inner tube inside the main tube you would also add to the stability a little more.
 

JohnDar

Prolifically Gabby Member
My blocks are three 12" lengths of 4x4 connected together by 5/4 deck planking. Makes them wide, stable, and only about 5" high. And the feet of my jacks and stabilizers have elephant pads on them, as well. Short of ramming it with the TV, it ain't going anywhere once it's set up.
 

Ray LeTourneau

Senior Member - Past Moderator
I also use fairly large blocks under the front legs and rear stabilizers. Key thing is, I chock both sides in front of and behind the tires before the truck comes out and the chocks aren't removed until the truck is hitched.
 

2010augusta

Well-known member
I made custom block to use in the VERY sandy "yard" I had at a house in Eastern CO. The base is 3/4" plywood that is trimmed out with tapered 2x4's and notched to clear the pins and bars of the stabilizers.
 

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Bobby A

Well-known member
I made custom block to use in the VERY sandy "yard" I had at a house in Eastern CO. The base is 3/4" plywood that is trimmed out with tapered 2x4's and notched to clear the pins and bars of the stabilizers.

Thats a good idea Alan, however that would not work for me because I have the elephant feet on mine, thats why I made 12 inch by 12 inch blocks glued and screwed together. For those that don't agree with blocking to high, I appreciate your opinion, thats why I stated in my post about a word of caution and the use of roto choks They should be the first thing installed and the last to be removed when setting up or tearing down. I guess everyone has there own method, just as long as we are all keeping safety in mine. Peace, and God Bless
 

JohnDar

Prolifically Gabby Member
I made custom block to use in the VERY sandy "yard" I had at a house in Eastern CO. The base is 3/4" plywood that is trimmed out with tapered 2x4's and notched to clear the pins and bars of the stabilizers.

Dang, Alan. Those look like elephant footsies without the peanut shells laying all over :D

FWIW, I also chock the tires and install BAL chocks between them (haven't ordered the Roto-Choks yet).
 

jonesj2

Well-known member
I am with you, I was using cut pieces of railroad ties at home where I store the Sundance. I had the wheels chocked with those yellow plastic chocks. As I was pulling out from the coach, the vehicle rolled backwards and crushed the chocks into 1000 pieces. The the coach came down on the TV. Fortunately very little damage to the TV just a small dent on bed rail. Now I use no more that 3 inches of wood and have new rubber chocks.:D

I am not trying to start a problem but I would like to express my opinion about putting large blocks under the landing gears.

If you ever park on a slanted ground or you start to hook up to the trailer you can knock the trailer off the blocks. I strongly do not suggest doing this. My trailer has slid a short amount and if it had been on tall blocks you can drop it onto the TV bed and/or drop it onto the landing gears and bend one. There is a lot of weigh on the landing gears.

That is how I see it others have their way. That's Ok too.

BC
 

caissiel

Senior Member
I agree
no plastic stuff in my trailer.
I have a bucket of 2 x 6 x 12 blocking and I use it for everything from chocking to jacking shims. Never left me stranded.
I use 2 x 6 on the side to level my trailer, I am always concerned about having the tires well supported not to break any cords.
I tried 2 x 8's but they just split.
I usually just use old lumber and cut a few every time the bucket gets a bit low.
 

Bobby A

Well-known member
What a great discussion, I thank everyone for there input. It took me a while to come to turms with the price of the roto choks, when I got over the sticker shock and finally ordered them and after installing them I realized how good they are, the trailer won't move forward or backwards once installed. This forum is awsome !!
 
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