Prefered Method for Tire Changing:

RoadJunkie · Jan 31, 2010

There was a thread on the RV.net forum relating to alternate methods of raising a tire/wheel in order to exchange a flat tire for the spare tire. One opinion was to use a "bottle" jack and lift the 5th wheel unit, as described in the maintenance manual, at the frame. Another opinion described the use of a device--manufactured by Camco--named "Trailer-Aid", whereby this device is driven onto by the unflattened wheel which, in turn, raises the flattened wheel for exchange. Yet another opinion describes achieving the same results as the "Trailer-Aid" by using either commercial leveling blocks or wood planks, as required. Some owners feel that raising a wheel by alternate methods other than those described in the owner's manual may present unacceptable stress to the burdened tire and axle by shouldering the entire load of the unit during the tire exchange.

I would like to generate some discussion on this topic specifically related to Lippert frame characteristics and perhaps some insight based on discussions with Lippert that some of the forum users may have had.

caissiel · Jan 31, 2010

I always did jack my trailer by the axles with a proper 12 ton jack. Never did the 2nd wheel wheel lift. Way to much work to be worth while. And I only carry the 2 x 6 lumber that I use for everything else.
The jack method is fast and only needs 1/2 inch of lift.

SilverRhino · Jan 31, 2010

I carry a 12ton bottle jack in the truck...used on TV and trailer.

The backing one tire up on an incline method has always scared me....I've always thought that it put too much weight on the one wheel/axle.

Just what I've always done.

Travel Safe!

Bobby A · Jan 31, 2010

Very interesting topic, I have one of those trailer-Aid devises that I bought a few years back at an RV show, knock on wood I've never had to use it. I think the majority that will chime in on this subject will be to you a 12 ton bottle jack and blocks and lift up at the frame.I'm sure the trailer-Aid will work for a quick fix in an emergency situation. GREAT topic and discussion.

westxsrt10 · Jan 31, 2010

I'm all for over doing it but why would you ever need a 12 ton (24,000lbs) jack. Whats the max weight on one wheel...3,700lbs?
I jack the wheel off the ground near the axle and a 6 ton bottle jack is over 3 times what you need.

caissiel · Jan 31, 2010

I like the easy pressure on the handle when lifting. Use it for my truck and trailer. A cheap 12ton is as good as an expensive 3-5 ton.

jnbhobe · Jan 31, 2010

Westxsrt10, I like your addition to your jack, makes jacking on the axel tube safe. I think the best reason for using a 12 ton jack is the ease of jacking. The bigger the capacity of the jack the easier it is to pump with a load on it. Just my nickels worth, JON

2010augusta · Jan 31, 2010

Another benefit of the 12 ton is the lifting height. I don't carry a lot of blocking or cribbing in the truck and only 7" or so in the trailer, so having the 18 5/8" of lift that a 12 ton jack means that I can reach the 24" to lift the frame an inch or so to lift a tire.

Additionally the axles of the 450 are about 16" of the ground so a smaller jack just doesn't do the job.

rvn4fun · Jan 31, 2010

I have plenty of jacks, blocks ect with me. I carry a 10 ton and a 12 ton, but after I purchased the rv. I found out you are supposed to jack up by the frame only, not on the axel. After reading a lot of other forums, I have decided to purchase the device that you just drive one wheel up on and the other flat wheel comes off the ground. However on other forums it was posted that to change back wheel a additional 2 by 8 was needed under device to get the wheel higher. I dont think that this would add any extra weight to the non flat axel tire on that side because the tire is flat anyway and one axel would be carrying most of the weight. I could make this device very easy if I were home but I am not so I will buy it here. I think blocking and jacking would be fine on a good flat surface but on most shoulders of the road you have a pretty good slope, and semis flying by inches away while rv is rocking back and forth, I just am not comfortable with having to jack that high in these situations. I have had only 2 flats in my 15 year history of pulling 5th wheels, and none of these were in good places to have a flat. Just my 2 cents.

Bill1374 · Jan 31, 2010

I carry 2 6 ton jacks just because I picked up the second one at a garage sale. Found the best way is to jack under the axle at the spring mount point. Quick and easy and I don't need a ton of blocking.
I think I've changed more than my share of flats.

Bill

RoadJunkie · Jan 31, 2010

rvn4fun said:
However on other forums it was posted that to change back wheel a additional 2 by 8 was needed under device to get the wheel higher.

It appears there are two models of the Trailer-Aid ramp devices. The link below identifies a Trailer-Aid Plus (yellow vs black?) which offers an additional inch of lift, still a pinch lower than a 2-by.

http://store.rvdirect.com/rvdirect/details.php?ITEM=5800023

superduty08 · Jan 31, 2010

From all the information that I have read, when a tire goes flat, the other tire on the same side takes on all the weight and stress from the trailer and should also be replaced. The same seems would be true of using the ramp on the good tire to lift the flat. My insurance company went after a popular china bomb tire company after I had a sidewall seperation that tore the side off my old sob fifer. They made the company pay for two replacement tires based on the info that I provided from internet research. Just my opinion.

jmgratz · Jan 31, 2010

This subject (regarding to how to lift the RV) has just about been done to death on the forum. I use a 12 ton bottle jack on the frame but I also have MorRyde IS.

cookie · Feb 1, 2010

I don't claim to be the sharpest knife in the drawer, but I just don't get it. The Lippert manual specifically says "WARNING! Lift the unit by the frame and never the the axle or suspension". Why is there debate on changing a tire?

Peace
Dave

RoadJunkie · Feb 1, 2010

From the Heartland Travel Trailer Manual as downloaded from the Heartland web site:

No other detail was located--relating to tire changing--during my search. I did not locate any "DO NOT" or "Warnings" related to lifting by suspension, but I guess that doesn't mean one can go ahead and lift by that method.

Well, good discussion on this topic. Thanks to all.

JohnDar · Feb 1, 2010

This is from the Lippert website. It says jack by the frame, not the axle.

boatto5er · Feb 1, 2010

JohnDar said:
This is from the Lippert website. It says jack by the frame, not the axle.

Now we have it from the horse's mouth (not you John! - I meant Lippert

). If only Lippert would have someone proofread their documents for missing words

before posting them!

porthole · Feb 1, 2010

I have no doubt that the "jack only by the frame" limits the amount of people who would not understand where it may be an OK place to use a jack on the axle/spring.

JohnDar · Feb 1, 2010

boat to 5er said:
Now we have it from the horse's mouth (not you John! - I meant Lippert). If only Lippert would have someone proofread their documents for missing words before posting them!

Don't worry, I've been referred to as the other end of the horse by many people.

westxsrt10 · Feb 1, 2010

cookie said:
I don't claim to be the sharpest knife in the drawer, but I just don't get it. The Lippert manual specifically says "WARNING! Lift the unit by the frame and never the the axle or suspension". Why is there debate on changing a tire?

Peace
Dave

I think sometimes common sence should just take over. On my unit i don't see a safe method for lifting half the units weight by the frame period. The bottom of the frame is 23.5" off the ground now and i'd guess it would take another 6"-8" to raise the tire off the ground by the frame. Raising the unit 1" "PROPERLY" with a bottle jack is the correct way. I have 30 years experiance as a heavy rigger (Local 250) to back up my thoughts. If you choose the frame method please use blocking to support the unit when the jack slips off.

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