Electric Brakes on 3055RL

sislv

Tom & Sharol
I had a problem recently on our initial shakedown trip where the rear axle brakes would not get warm after braking. The front axle drums would get very warm showing they were working. At first I thought the dealer hadn't adjusted the shoes properly and they were not touching the drums. After we got home while installing three fresh water tank vent line valves (to prevent loss of water while traveling), I found the problem with the rear wheels brakes.

Just inside the hole in the belly liner where the 3 water vent lines come through, there are two blue and two black wires spliced. One of the blue wires had pulled out of the splice connector and that was the feed wire to the rear axle brakes. I removed the splices and re-spliced all the wires and taped them. I haven't been able to take the trailer out yet to check it out but am sure all four wheels brakes should work now. I kind of thought the brakes were fairly weak on the trip.

In case you have a loss of brakes you might check the wiring connections. I can provide a wiring diagram if anyone needs more info on the brake wiring at the front and rear axles.
 

ChopperBill

Well-known member
I noticed my brakes weren't that effective when coming down a Wyoming mountain pass. Stopped at the bottom and the truck brakes were really hot but the trailer brakes were cool to the touch. Just thought I didn't have the Prodigy figured out yet. Maybe I just might have the same problem.
 

sislv

Tom & Sharol
Trailer Brakes

ChopperBill:

Another thing you may find is that the brake shoes aren't adjusted. I had to harp at our dealer to check them and lo and behold they were way out of adjustment. They were trying to tell me the brakes have auto adjustment.
 

GARTH

Member
After reading about your brake problem I decided to check our 3055 brakes remembering when I pulled it up to our mountain property (on its maiden voyage) for the summer I had to adjust the Prodigy brake controller to full voltage to get the brakes to actuate properly. With my other trailers 4-5 volts at a stop is where I set the controller. Thinking that the next time I will be towing the 3055 I will be going down hill I thought I better climb under it and check the brakes myself. I plugged the connector into the pickup, got a bottle jack, went under the 5th wheel to jack up one wheel at a time and with the help of my wife Sue who would manually activate the controller in the pickup I could rotate the tires independently to check the brake resistance. I set the Prodigy to 4.3 volts. When Sue activated it I listened for a humming sound at each wheel which will tell you if the brakes are getting current. Only 3 brakes hummed. After looking a little further I saw two wires just hanging loose by the brake backing plate. I put them together with a 14 GA splice connector and had Sue apply the controller once more and it hummed like the other ones. Now I knew I had voltage to all 4 wheels. After jacking up one wheel and rotating it by hand I had Sue apply the brake controller which was set at 4.3 volts. The brake tried to apply but I could still rotate it by hand. Now I knew why I needed to set the controller at full voltage. I got a long regular screw driver, popped out the rubber plug and started rotating the brake adjuster. 35 clicks later the brake shoe was against the brake drum. I backed it off 5 clicks to where it didn't drag any more, had Sue apply the controller while I was rotating the tire and it locked up right away at 4.3 volts. I popped in the rubber plug and went to the next tire and did the same procedure. All 4 brakes were out of adjustment the same amount. I lengthened the adjuster 35 clicks, then backed them off 5 clicks. It was very obvious that these brakes were never adjusted properly from the axel manufacturer. I'm sure glad I checked them as the descent from our mountain property back down to our home is 5000 ft. to 200 ft. in 40 miles and with the 3055 weighing more than the truck towing it-I probably don't need to say any more. Garth
 

sislv

Tom & Sharol
3055RL Brakes

Interesting Garth............

I had to be persistant with our dealer to have them check the brake shoe adjustments. They tried to convince me that the brakes had automatic adjusters. When that didn't work they said it probably was my brake controller. When they did check the shoe adjustments, they found all the wheels were way out of adjustment. I rather doubt that they were ever adjusted. I think everyone along the way in manufacturing the axles, and trailer assumed someone else had adjusted them.
 

ct0218

Well-known member
When I picked up my Landmark in April I was less than a mile from my dealer when I decided my brakes were barely working, so I turned around and returned (It was now 7PM and they had been officially closed for an hour). The service Mgr and an employee adjusted my brakes, after telling me it was my controller, and telling me the brakes will adjust when backing and braking. I told them that they will adjust slightly, mostly for wear, but not as much as they needed. My brakes were out of adjustment a lot, what a difference when I left there. I, and a lot of others, am grossing right at 24K pounds, and even with the optional brakes I ordered there is not any to spare. Check you brakes!
 

Deb

Deb
We have a new 3055 RL BigHorn and we are not satisfied with the braking. All 4 wheels have had the brakes adjusted and the voltage verified. The original brake controller was a Reese and has been replaced with a Voyager. We can not get what I would call aggressive braking action. At maximum controller and going 10mph the brakes have a slight grab but will not stop the camper and truck. Has anyone succeeded in aggressive braking action. I am now out of ideas.
Allan (Deb's husband)
 

jpmorgan37

Well-known member
Allan;
I would have the wheels pulled on the BigHorn and the brakes checked. Make sure they are clean, magnets and springs intact, and shoes and drums making correct contact. Look at the adjusters and verify they are properly installed. At 10 mph and max controller, you should lock the brakes. If the problem is in the truck, I would suggest running a 10 gauge wire from the brake controller to the trailer connector. The only other idea that I have is going to a Brake Smart controller which ties in to the hydraulic system on your tow vehicle and the current to the trailer brakes is directly proportional to the hydraulic pressure applied by the system in your tow vehicle as you step on the brake pedal. Good Luck,
John
 

bajaron

Bajaron
Deb said:
We have a new 3055 RL BigHorn and we are not satisfied with the braking. All 4 wheels have had the brakes adjusted and the voltage verified. The original brake controller was a Reese and has been replaced with a Voyager. We can not get what I would call aggressive braking action. At maximum controller and going 10mph the brakes have a slight grab but will not stop the camper and truck. Has anyone succeeded in aggressive braking action. I am now out of ideas.
Allan (Deb's husband)
I had the same problem using a voyage brake controller that i got with my used 5th wheel. IMHO the Voyager is not up to the job of conrolling a 5th wheel. I changed to a prodigy brake controller and it was like night and day difference. The Prodigy had alot of adjustment and easyly handles the job.
I now have a slightly used prodigy and voyager laying around as i upgraded trucks to a 2005 ford with a built in brake controller. If you were close by i would let you try my Prodige. Try a better brake controller as there are many out there.
 

BluegrassMan

Well-known member
Hi All:
I'm sure that the "better" brake units ARE more forgiving and sensitive. BUT be sure that the brakes are adjusted out to the max "inside" the drum. All the voltage in the world won't help if the lining isn't contacting the drum.

Garth, did you roll the adjuster up(away) or down(toward) from you when moving the lining out ? I keep forgetting, till I actually do it the wrong way, then I have to go the OTHER way.
 

GARTH

Member
BlueGrass Man:
I believe I rolled the adjustor down (towards me). If you look inside the adjustment hole with a flashlight you can see the adjustor. It has a spring over the top of it which keeps it from rotating by itself. When I looked into ours it was backed off almost all the way. After rotating it a few times you can see if it is lengthening by looking at the threads on the adjusting bolt. I like to adjust brakes with the wheel jacked up off the ground so that I can rotate it and feel the brake resistance while I am lengthening the adjustor. Good Luck! Garth
 
A bit of information: we picked up our Big Horn 3055RL we had the slider Hitch installed and wiring Installed by the dealer. When I was ready to leave the slider was in the rear position so I applied the manual brake in the system and tried to slide it to the traveling position the trailer brakes wouldn’t lock and I couldn’t get it to slide to move forward and the brakes would hold the trailer and it just keep rolling, so I thought I didn’t have any brakes! So we got the mechanic back and checked the connections he told me to contact ford and see if there was an adjustment to the brake system.
My Ford 2005 SWD came with the Tow Command System installed and after some calls to local dealers I was informed that ford trucks manufactured prior to 3/23/05 have a maximum of 3-volts running through the plug to the trailer and after that date they change it to 10-volts and the tow brake system interfaced through the ABS system it was designed not to lock up, the more pressure applied to the brake pedal the more voltage is applied but wont start increasing voltage until you reach 30 MPH some other said 15 MPH. so I cant lock the coach brakes to slide the 5th wheel forward or backwards..
There was a couple of alternative: To have an upgrade to have the 10-volt added but still can’t lock the trailer brakes. (Seems impractical) or have an after market brake system installed to lock trailer brakes.
That afternoon after stopping at my Ford dealer the service manager called me and explained their take on the situation and suggested I jack up the rear and get the RPM up to what ever, then take the voltage test on the truck plug to ensure it was operating OK. So I made an appointment the next morning so they could check it. They put it on a lift and got the RPM’s up and the voltage reading was 12.36 Volts and you were right it was within specifications so nothing was said about upgrading to the new module which was $289 upgrade plus labor? It was hard to believe that I had to be traveling 15 or 30 MPH to be able to apply any trailer brakes? I haven’t towed it in snow or icy roads yet wonder how the trailer will react??? But when I was backing in my driveway parking I could hear the brakes clicking! When I was hooking the next time I tried the break away cable, I tried pulling it still didn’t work. When I was back at my dealer for some warranty work I had them check the brakes and the adjustments they said they we Ok, before leaving I pulled the cable again they still didn’t apply so the technician came out and after a bout 1 ½ tire revolution they finally did activate! Go figure!
 

Wild Wind

Active Member
All four of mind where to tight, wheel only would spin 1/4 turn. I losened all brakes 4-7 licks, turn wheel down to lossen (lifting adjusting spoon up makes wheel turn down)(hate to think how much gas and brake shoe I have been wasting).
 
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