Water Pump

Got questions about the water pump switches. Can someone explain them? Do both of them have to be in certain positions for the pump to work? Does the red LED on the monitor panel have to be on?

I've been using city water through the hose since I got the Cyclone. My original pump sprung a leak about 7 months ago, so I took it out and plugged the line. I got a new pump from my dealer at that time and just got around to installing it today.

It appears that once the LED is lit, it works. The LED will light with the switches in certain positions. Flip either switch, the LED goes out. Flip both switches, the LED is lit. When running the pump, the amperage is 10.6. Then when the pump stops, the amperage remains. What's up with this thing? Water works fine, by the way.

Thanks.

HT,

Are you talking about a switch on the pump itself as well as the wall switch? If so, yes, they both need to be on, they're in series. How are you measuring the current?

HT,

If you're talking about the pump switch on the control panel (inside the coach), and the pump switch on the docking station (outside the coach) - then either of them will turn the pump on and off independently. They do not both have to be on at the same time. I've never really noticed how the light on the indoor control panel reacts when the outdoor docking station pump switch is turned on and off.

Rod

So, these are 3-way switches? I'm not familiar with the features of the toy haulers.

They are not 3 way switches. Turn it on inside and it stays on until you turn it off inside. Same with at the docking station.

htneighbors said:

Got questions about the water pump switches. Can someone explain them? Do both of them have to be in certain positions for the pump to work? Does the red LED on the monitor panel have to be on?

I've been using city water through the hose since I got the Cyclone. My original pump sprung a leak about 7 months ago, so I took it out and plugged the line. I got a new pump from my dealer at that time and just got around to installing it today.

It appears that once the LED is lit, it works. The LED will light with the switches in certain positions. Flip either switch, the LED goes out. Flip both switches, the LED is lit. When running the pump, the amperage is 10.6. Then when the pump stops, the amperage remains. What's up with this thing? Water works fine, by the way.

Thanks.

Click to expand...

If the switches are not 3-way and just supposed to be wired in parallel, then it sounds like this pump is miswired. I'm still curious as to how you're measuring the currnet draw.

I use one of my clamp-on meters which can measure DC amps.

I installed the pump the other night prior to posting the first post. I have one switch outside in the UDC and one on the panel, where the LED is located. I noticed the LED would light when turning on the panel switch. Pump would run, water would work. Then when I would go outside and check for leaks, the pump would still be making a noise like it is trying to keep pressure up, and I switched the switch in the UDC up and it quit making the noise. When I went back inside, the LED would be off. Switch the panel switch the other way, the LED would light. Repeat process.

I didn't look at the back of the panel switch yet, but the UDC switch does have 3 wires stabbed on the back of it - BLACK, RED & BLUE. I just couldn't understand why/how the pump would still be showing current draw, when not running. Guess I need to trace out some more wiring and try to figure this thing out.

HT,

I can't explain the current draw if the pump is switched "off", but I would expect a draw if it is switched "on" (from either location) even if it is not actually running - if only to power the red light. It sounds as if your three-way switching is working correctly. If the pump is "on" in one location, it can be switched off from the other location - and vice-versa. And it sounds as if the red light responds correctly - being lit whenever the pump is "on" regardless of which station switch has turned it on.

One thing though. As I'm sure you know - your pump should not be running when "on", unless there is a demand for water. If it is still running after system pressurization, then you must have a leak somewhere - or air in the system. Remember to bleed the system of air first. Leave your taps open till water is running out of all of them, then close your taps and the pump should stop running within a few seconds.

Rod

htneighbors said:

Got questions about the water pump switches. Can someone explain them? Do both of them have to be in certain positions for the pump to work? Does the red LED on the monitor panel have to be on?

I've been using city water through the hose since I got the Cyclone. My original pump sprung a leak about 7 months ago, so I took it out and plugged the line. I got a new pump from my dealer at that time and just got around to installing it today.

It appears that once the LED is lit, it works. The LED will light with the switches in certain positions. Flip either switch, the LED goes out. Flip both switches, the LED is lit. When running the pump, the amperage is 10.6. Then when the pump stops, the amperage remains. What's up with this thing? Water works fine, by the way.

Thanks.

Click to expand...

HT; Any time you have a pump switch on there sould be power at the pump running or not. There is a

preasure switch on the pump to turn it on and off. Sounds like it is wired for 3 way control. Now you need

to add an accumalator in line so the pump won't pulsate when running.

If your pump motor is still drawing amps when not pumping the motor should get very hot. This isn't right by any means. Power should be there and should stop at the pressure switch. Something is wrong here.