Maximum amperage for 10 ga wire
- Thread starter nhunter
- Start date
jpmorgan37
Well-known member
nhunter;
It's been a long time since school, but I found this and should be close. Hope it helps. http://www.greatinspector.com/faq-elec-wiresize.html
John
It's been a long time since school, but I found this and should be close. Hope it helps. http://www.greatinspector.com/faq-elec-wiresize.html
John
When in doubt, over size, way not run # 8 to be safe. I tried to took it up in NEC Code book but could not find it. The code's main concern is the number of wires bunched or tied to gether in a run, kind of insulation on the wire, and operating temperature. Its also say's "do not run branch circuits together", they must have a space between them. Usually I just call up my son, a Master Electrician and ask, but I can't find him today.
jpmorgan37
Well-known member
nhunter;
What are you going to have coming out of your sub fuse panel in current? Most will give you current draw specifications. If you are concerned that the load might exceed the current carring capabilities of the wire, put a circuit breaker in the lead wire. A 10 gauge wire will handle 30 amps in a 12 volt circuit. If more than that, follow Wild Winds suggestion and go with 8 or larger. 4 gauge will carry 100 Amps in a 12 volt circuit for a short period of time (battery cables and starters) which usually come in about 50 amps after initial surge. Clarence is right. Larger is much safer than smaller.
What are you going to have coming out of your sub fuse panel in current? Most will give you current draw specifications. If you are concerned that the load might exceed the current carring capabilities of the wire, put a circuit breaker in the lead wire. A 10 gauge wire will handle 30 amps in a 12 volt circuit. If more than that, follow Wild Winds suggestion and go with 8 or larger. 4 gauge will carry 100 Amps in a 12 volt circuit for a short period of time (battery cables and starters) which usually come in about 50 amps after initial surge. Clarence is right. Larger is much safer than smaller.
nhunter
Well-known member
I am going to run a 400 watt inverter rated for 20a, a three watt analog phone rated for 5a, a 3 way cigarette lighter rated for 10a, and emergency air shut off that has a solenoid so I just need power to activate the solenoid. So I should have a total of 40a. I was going to run a 50a fuse right off of the battery. The rating I have listed are what the fuses will trip at not their continous draw. Thanks for your help.
nhunter,
Not sure if you have a source for your wire or not but on my long-term (likely winter) project list is a plan to add an Optima yellow-top battery in my bed tool box with a battery isolator between it and the truck batts. I'll need a fair amount of heavy wire to run from the engine compartment.
When I was at Farm and Fleet on my ill-fated attempt at getting my new tires installed, I looked over their automotive wiring section. They had rolls of 2/0 and 4 GA black and red wire for what I felt was reasonable prices. Farm and Fleets are only in IA, IL & WI, but you may have similar stores under other banners in your area. Best of luck on your project.
Jim
Not sure if you have a source for your wire or not but on my long-term (likely winter) project list is a plan to add an Optima yellow-top battery in my bed tool box with a battery isolator between it and the truck batts. I'll need a fair amount of heavy wire to run from the engine compartment.
When I was at Farm and Fleet on my ill-fated attempt at getting my new tires installed, I looked over their automotive wiring section. They had rolls of 2/0 and 4 GA black and red wire for what I felt was reasonable prices. Farm and Fleets are only in IA, IL & WI, but you may have similar stores under other banners in your area. Best of luck on your project.
Jim
jpmorgan37
Well-known member
Some Home Depot and Lowes also carry bulk spools of larger gauge wire. I'm not sure of the color choice because all I ever bought was black. The 4 gauge wire should do great for that application. I would also consider a 50A circuit breaker (self resetting) instead of a fuse. They usually come in 5 to 30 second reset, if I remember correctly and are available at auto electric supplies and some better auto parts stores. That way, if you get a surge, the breaker will trip and then reset in a few seconds giving you a chance to isolate the cause.
nhunter
Well-known member
Well I went out of town due to our lack of a good parts store, and found the motherload. I got some black 4ga wire (they had red but only 5') and a waterproof glass style fuse holder and some 60amp fuses. I went with the fuse over the self-reseting breaker as I got my rear end kicked one time by a breaker that didn't reset (sitting alone in the dark for 3 hours). Home Depot had some 4ga wire but I felt it was too stiff as compared to automotive type wire. Thanks to everyone for their help and my insurance company probably thanks you too for not letting me burn down a new pickup.
jpmorgan37
Well-known member
nhunter;
I'm happy for you. We all would hate to see you toast your new truck and glad you found what you need. Let us know how it comes out.
I'm happy for you. We all would hate to see you toast your new truck and glad you found what you need. Let us know how it comes out.
Here is another site to find what gauge wire to use. An advantage with this table is it also includes the length of the wire run.
http://www.rbeelectronics.com/wtable.htm
http://www.rbeelectronics.com/wtable.htm
dieselengineer
Charter Member
nhunter
Keep a eye on the total amount of power you are drawing off with these additional devices. I just came back from a trip, and I had a little eye opening issue on the way. I was in a little rush and didn't get to check the current draw for the new very large electric cooler I just purchased. We were traveling along and the TV's A/C started to stop cooling. It appeared to be working, but it was not working correctly. Then I checked the volt meter, and the voltage was going south. We quickly dumped the cooler load along with, all the other acc, (we also had a laptop plugged, lights on, etc.). After a few miles, the voltage was up and the A/C was working again. This little issue was an eye opener, knowing that without power we have no electric brakes!
Keep a eye on the total amount of power you are drawing off with these additional devices. I just came back from a trip, and I had a little eye opening issue on the way. I was in a little rush and didn't get to check the current draw for the new very large electric cooler I just purchased. We were traveling along and the TV's A/C started to stop cooling. It appeared to be working, but it was not working correctly. Then I checked the volt meter, and the voltage was going south. We quickly dumped the cooler load along with, all the other acc, (we also had a laptop plugged, lights on, etc.). After a few miles, the voltage was up and the A/C was working again. This little issue was an eye opener, knowing that without power we have no electric brakes!
sailorand
Past British Columbia Chapter Leader
I have run 10 gauge from the batteries to the desk area in our 3055, for my hamradio. The draw will be up to 20 amps. There will be a voltage drop so I will install a sealed gel cell battery in the desk area hooked up to the incoming 12 volts and that will me the needed voltage and amps to the radio. The other way would be to run another 10 gauge wire from the batteries.
somewhat different running to the others, but for my intermittent 20 amp draw this should work for me
somewhat different running to the others, but for my intermittent 20 amp draw this should work for me
