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dennis2188
03-27-2010, 05:27 PM
Took our new 2010 3055rl in for some warranty work last week and picked it up today. One of the problems is the electric brakes. The brakes don't seem to engage like my other trailers do. They adjusted the brakes which they said needed it but they still don't seem to engage properly. They checked the voltage and the amperage to the brakes. 13.5 vdc and right at 12 amps when the brakes were activated from the tv. My question is what else could be causing the brakes not to be right?

ChopperBill
03-27-2010, 05:48 PM
This was my fix but it may not be what you are looking for. I had poor brakes on the trailer for about 3 years adjusted them the best I could. Played with the brake controller. Finally took it to a commercial trailer repair shop because I thought they might have had grease on them or something not put together right. They took it apart and said every thing was OK except a small amount of grease on one lining. They said with that brakes that were on them (china) that the have found when you drive down the road a few miles apply the brake controller handle until you can see that the brakes are getting very hot. I thought that was a poor idea but did it anyway as I have been putting up with poor brakes so long. When I was done the dog gone thing stopped 10 times better! Before it would never stop the unit with just the controller at slow speed. Now it will stop it with no trouble with just the controller. Still does today and that was 2 years ago. Not the fix you wanted to hear but it sure worked for me.

2010augusta
03-27-2010, 06:19 PM
To make this discussion more useful can we also post up what brake controller and setting your using?

I am pretty satisfied with the brakes on the Landmark, but I have not to panic stop or get on them very hard.
I am using the Ford integrated brake controller set to 10 out of 10.

jmgratz
03-27-2010, 06:30 PM
To make this discussion more useful can we also post up what break controller and setting your using?

I am pretty satisfied with the breaks on the Landmark, but I have not to panic stop or get on them very hard.
I am using the Ford integrated break controller set to 10 out of 10.


Not criticizing you Alan but it should be brake not break.

dennis2188
03-27-2010, 06:32 PM
It's an older brake controller that came with my 2001 dodge diesel. I pull two other trailers with this tv, a 30 ft. wilson stock trailer and an implement trailer I haul our payloader around to different sites. I can lock the brakes up on those two trailers with the gain turned down low. When pulling the 3055 I have to have the gain turned to max and you can barely feel them engage when your going down the road. If I had to do a panic stop the trailer brakes would be of no use.

2010augusta
03-27-2010, 06:41 PM
Not criticizing you Alan but it should be brake not break.

Thanks Jim, i thought something didn't look right. I been wikiing too long today and it is all starting to look like code.

Ray LeTourneau
03-27-2010, 10:46 PM
It's an older brake controller that came with my 2001 dodge diesel. I pull two other trailers with this tv, a 30 ft. wilson stock trailer and an implement trailer I haul our payloader around to different sites. I can lock the brakes up on those two trailers with the gain turned down low. When pulling the 3055 I have to have the gain turned to max and you can barely feel them engage when your going down the road. If I had to do a panic stop the trailer brakes would be of no use.
I had a Tekonsha Voyager for a while and had to adjust the darn thing almost every time I used the rig. I even had to reset it after the brakes reached "normal" temperatures. Not real pleased with the breaks (:osorry Jim) performance, I upgraded the controller to a Prodigy. At the time, I think it was one of the best controllers available. There are many comparable controllers available now. I would definitely upgrade your controller and even try as retired4fun suggested and heat the brakes up. Don't over do it but get them warmed up pretty good. Since I bought the prodigy I've had much better and consistent brake performance

lwmcguir
03-28-2010, 07:11 AM
Almost all drum brakes need to be run in. Similar to what the poster said about getting them hot. Not sure if I want to go to that extreme but if you cant lock them up at slow speed then you shouldn't drive down the hi way until you have the problem located and repaired. Some of the China materials used for linings were harder and took longer to burn in than some of the Dexter and other brands that we are more familiar with. Sometimes there is oxidation between the magnet and the drum that needs to be rubbed off as well. Applying the brakes for an extended time will usually take care of it. I have to agree with the other poster regarding the difference in axles and brakes. I saw the same thing with the Landmark and had to turn up the gain and even with the upgraded brakes/axles use more gain than on the Dexter axles. However again, if any of you cant lock up your brakes on with your controller at low speed then you have a serious problem. What are you going to do in a panic stop? One more note regarding static brake testing is that the amperage needs to be checked along with the voltage otherwise you really don't know what the magnets are doing. You might just be checking your ground.

lwmcguir
03-28-2010, 07:15 AM
There is a free spell checker that you can down load and use to check your post if anyone is interested or wasn't aware of that. Sometimes I forget to use it.

roazo
03-28-2010, 07:38 AM
What is the link to the spell checker?

jbeletti
03-28-2010, 07:41 AM
If you use Internet Explorer or another browser based on Internet Explorer, here's a link to IE Spell: http://www.iespell.com/

If you use Firefox or another Mozilla based browser, a spell checker is likely built into the browser. Here's an article on this: http://www.wikihow.com/Install-a-Spell-Checker-Into-Firefox

Jim

dieselengineer
03-28-2010, 09:08 AM
Be careful not to heat up the brakes to a point that you cook the grease. Most axle grease ratings are below four / five hundred degrees. Overheating the drums will transmit this heat into the hub and your wheel bearing grease will turn to liquid. Then bad things happen.

Bob&Patty
03-28-2010, 11:08 AM
MY experence with the brakes on our Horn has been. When it sits for a long period of time, the brakes are very grabby at 1st. Then they seem to work normally after that. My opinion is, that the drums get a rust build up and until you burn that off they can either grab or slide until the rust burns off. The old controller I had really sucked. I replaced it with the Prodigy 3 and boy what a difference. My 2cts. Bob

ChopperBill
03-28-2010, 12:30 PM
Just for clarification. I did not heat up the brakes until they start to smoke but you could definitely smell them standing beside the trailer. I know it seems like the wrong thing to do but putting china brakes on something ain't the best either! It worked and I will do it to the new one when it comes if it has poor brakes.
An after thought. When pulling out the first time when its cold I "warm" up the brakes with the controller for a short distance and it sure helps braking performance for me.

lwmcguir
03-29-2010, 07:46 AM
If you use Internet Explorer or another browser based on Internet Explorer, here's a link to IE Spell: http://www.iespell.com/

If you use Firefox or another Mozilla based browser, a spell checker is likely built into the browser. Here's an article on this: http://www.wikihow.com/Install-a-Spell-Checker-Into-Firefox

Jim


Thanks Jim, Hadn't had time to get back on until now

dennis2188
03-30-2010, 07:10 PM
Did what retired4fun suggested and guess what it worked. Thanks for the advise.

Dennis and Rhonda