Problem with Dometic RM 1350

motoflash

Member
Our fridge has been working fine until recently. We arrived at our destination and had no digital display and no power. We had a repairman come out. He reset it or something and it still didn't work, but a display of "10" appeared. We left and returned a couple of days later and our fridge was working normally again with a display of 34 degrees. Then we moved to another campground and it stopped working again. Does anyone know where the reset button is? Anyone have this problem?
 

jimtoo

Moderator
Hi motoflash,

Welcome to the Heartland Owners Forum and Family. We have a great bunch of people here with lots of information and all willing to share their knowledge if needed.

I'm sure someone will jump in here soon and give you the information your looking for.

Enjoy the fourm.

Jim M
 

ralphpam

Well-known member
We have the same refer and although we have not had that specific problem we have had constant problems with ours for almost a year now. The one thing that does sound the same is it quit cooling one night. Three days later it started cooling again and no one knows why. It started cooling after the tech put the thermistor wire from the fin into a glass of ice water although he says that should have nothing to do with it. A tech has been working on ours for over 2 months and it is still not fixed. Dometic does not know what is wrong so they just keep throwing parts at it - both boards have now been replaced. Ours shows an E1 code and the gas only works sometimes - you never know when or if it will work. Of course it always works when the tech is here!! Don't know about a reset button, but turning ours off and on gets rid of the E1 code temporarily.
 

motoflash

Member
Hi ya Jim, we met at the Sweetheart Rally in Kerrville. I think the problem is somehow connected to the doorlock not staying locked. I locked the doors and tugged slightly on the handles and the lock slid to open and the ubit shut down. I slid the locking slide back and forth a couple of times and the unit came back on. We are in the Yosemite area now but as soon as we get to a dealer I will have them check it out. Having fun otherwise.
Frank and Brenda Heard
2010 Landmark Augusta
2008 F-450
 

ralphpam

Well-known member
More information for you. The tech was out again yesterday. He had wired the 12v directly to a battery as Dometic had asked to isolate that system. The battery started to get low and the refer stopped cooling, the door lock mechanism started clicking and if you locked it would unlock itself. When he wired it back to our rig system the fuse had blown and the display flashed 0. I asked about a reset button or in line fuse in the back of the refer and there is neither of those. These refers need a good 12v to operate on electric or gas. The only thing that can be reset is the breaker on the 120v system inside. According to the tech the door locking mechanism will do crazy things with a low battery. It is a system that in a motorhome can be connected to an alternator and it operates automatically. Sounds like it may have been a 12v problem. And ours is still doing the same thing so the tech will call Dometic on Monday - again.
 

2010augusta

Well-known member
How did you all get an electric door lock? Ours is just a manual slide mechanism. Is this an "upgrade" with the new doors you all got?
 

ralphpam

Well-known member
Yours is electric (12v) also - we still have no new doors as they have sent the wrong ones 2 times. We go over Wed. to get them - they look right this time. All of the refers have the same locking mechanism - it is designed for a motorhome where it can be connected to an alternator and when you start the engine it will lock automatically. It just gets messed up when your battery is low and tries to work. We do the same as you - slide the lock manually. We were told by one person that it can be wired in a 5th wheel, but our tech says it has to be wired directly to an alternator and that is what the installation manual says also.
 

motoflash

Member
Thanks for the info. About three weeks ago I parked the coach without plugging in and the battery was dead when I returned. I plugged into 50 amp. and let it charge back up. Could this be the start of the problem? Should I buy a new 12V battery?
 

jnbhobe

Well-known member
You should get a battery shutoff switch. Your RV uses 12V power when not plugged in for a lot of things. JON
 

jmgratz

Original Owners Club Member
Thanks for the info. About three weeks ago I parked the coach without plugging in and the battery was dead when I returned. I plugged into 50 amp. and let it charge back up. Could this be the start of the problem? Should I buy a new 12V battery?

There are several things which have "phantom" loads on your battery when you are plugged in. Your leak detectors are one. Bottom line is these will cause a battery to go dead in several days. For this reason it will be necessary to plug in or disconnect your battery when your RV is stored.
 

motoflash

Member
very helpful. Thanks everyone. Fridge has behaved itself the last couple of days. It would shut down during the night, so I fiddled with the door lock and opened and shut the doors and it came back on. I still hold my breath every time I go in for something cold. ha!
 

Willym

Well-known member
If these door locks are voltage sensitive, could it be that they are acting up when the convertor changes charge modes? The PD converters have 3 modes depending on battery state and time. It may be worth checking the DC line voltage when the door locks do something unexpected.
 
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