JohnnyB and the Basement of Doom

Well, I was out at the storage yard, doing some prep work. Don't have anyplace to hook up to city water to flush the lines, so I used my little 3-gallon Makita compressor and borrowed generator to push the antifreeze out and into the drains. Then I dropped a pickup tube extension into a 5-gallon jerry can of chlorinated water and used the pump in winterize mode to run water through the lines (except the W/D). While I was playing around, I noticed that the connection in the UDC for the tank flusher had broken. The "star wheel" that the hose connects to had separated. Without that, there's no connecting to it. Probably from the stress of leaving the manifold connected to it over the winter. So a 1 hour round trip to General RV for a replacement. They didn't have a tank flusher mount, so I used a city water connection, complete with new mount flange. At least it's brass and not plastic. And now I've got a check valve in there, as well. Moving on, I wanted to connect the Charge Wizard monitor I bought, so I removed the rest of the basement walls. Still a big mess in there, and getting at the converter is an exercise in contortionism. You can just see it in the left corner. The suppressor is where I remounted it. Originally, the dealer had stuck it inside that hole in the wall, behind the breaker panel.
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Naturally, the plug in port for the remote was tight up against the bulk head, so I had to wrestle a drill/driver in there to loosen it and reposition it so I could get at it. Then I find that the cord is not long enough, so I just closed up shop, went to Radio Shack for a phone line connector, and will get back at it later. I think there's enough excess wire on the converter (and the surge suppressor) to mount them on the framing next to the steps. Also tightened up the U-bolts on the springs; some nuts were not quite at 65 ft-lbs. Springs look good, though. Tires were still at 108 psi after sitting all winter, and looking good.
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John, what is a Charge Wizard Monitor ?

I found this when I was looking up info on the Model 9200 series converters. It looked interesting, so I sent for one. I'll be mounting it in my switch cabinet. It has a length (maybe 6 ft) of telephone cable on it, but it's hardwired into the little box, so to extend it, I have to use a connector and another length of cord. The 9200 series have a port on the side to plug it in.

http://www.progressivedyn.com/prod_details/pendant.html

John, guess I have to say your equipment bay looks pretty good compared to what I have seen. I think they are trying a little harder. You could have been lost forever in my "06"! Lots of extra wire, especially after the dealer installed the inverter and left about an extra 15' of 10/3 wire in there and left about 20' of extra coax cable after string in a new line and left the unused one in there to boot. When I open up mine and it looks like yours I am going to feel pretty good about it.
On edit: That price on the Charge Wizard direct from Progressive is the best price I found. Dont mess with eBay. Mine sitting on the bench waiting for the new 3610RE

John... not so sure you want a check valve on the black water flusher input! The water drains naturally by design to the tank and to the input from the bkl tank valve in the wall. With a check valve at the input water will be trapped between that and the valve in the wall. The water will freeze unless you remember to drain it or flush with antifreeze.

DXprowler said:

John... not so sure you want a check valve on the black water flusher input!

Click to expand...

the PLASTIC flusher hook-up has a NO check valve in it.

There was no check valve in my plastic fitting, only a filter screen. I never noticed water flowing back out of it because I mounted a on/off valve on the outside fitting before I first used it. The part in question is B&B Molders #CV1994-1. There is an arrow indicating flow direction, but it would be wishful thinking to expect that hollow plastic tube to stop a reverse flow.

As for winterizing, a short 40 psi blast from my little air compressor will take care of that. Or I can just push in the little "tab" on the valve and let it drain into the UDC (holding a cup under the port). While I was poking around, I looked under the black tank, towards the rear and spotted the end of a white hose sitting on the Coroplast. I think I might loosen up one side and see just what surprises might be hiding there.

The balmy weather we were experiencing has left and it's back to low 40's with winds and rain. So no work on the BH until next week when it warms up again. Besides, my knees and back need a break from the position I have to get into to do anything in the back of the basement.

John, you are right, I just assumed that the flusher fitting had the same check valve as the plastic city water hook-up, but I was WRONG. it is simply a hollow fitting and I never noticed because of the ball-valve I have installed too. I corrected my previous post. Learned something today...

2010augusta said:

.... Learned something today...

Click to expand...

Your welcome!

No problem, Alan. There's no telling what parts were used when on some of these rigs. I may be wrong, but I think my city water connector is brass. If it isn't, it will be. I'm also tempted to get rid of that 90-deg. flusher joint and put a straight connector in there, using the flex in the line to curve around a little easier.

And I've just had another brainstorm (or just passing brain "gas") on making access to the rear basement area, particularly behind the UDC, easier. Rather than sliding panels or having to remove a dozen screws and pull both walls AND the W/D drain cover. I can cut large openings in the two main panels, frame them properly and use removable insert panels in them. That way I can quickly access the rear of the UDC or the center area of the basement. Since I've got both panels dismounted right now anyways, I can still work on them in my home garage with the weather being crappy. Almost fully equipped woodworking shop in there. Might try jumping on that project tomorrow after our live training burn (weather permitting).

if your City water hook up is not brass, I did find a exact replacement that is brass.

I mounted the large part of the wall on hinges at the DS side and a gate latch at the ODS, I let friction hold the small section near the UDC.

Pretty sure it's brass, since the hose connection is. Wasn't paying that much attention to it when I was there. But as to the basement walls, it sounds like yours are different. I have two large pieces that meet in the middle. The one from the DS is straight across the basement from the wall. The one from the ODS is screwed to the back corner of the UDC on an angle and meets the other panel in the center of the basement and is screwed to it. The "third" piece is the cover for the W/D drain and plumbing, which is also black runs across the DS cargo opening at the top and loves the top of my head above the brim of my cap. Never thought wearing a baseball cap would be hazardous to my health. Maybe I should wear it "ghetto" style so I can see it coming.

I'm considering just taking that one piece of plywood out altogether! Of course it does look neater covering up all that mess but it's a basement after all so I don't really care. Wondering if there's any other function to it other than dressing? It would provide protection from any cargo flying around but I have set up a fork mount for my carbon fiber road bike so I intend to strap my stuff down.

I had thought about redesigning the wall layout, but in reality, it would not provide enough extra space to make it worthwhile. Other than small loose objects falling down into the underbelly and being lost forever (or until you drop the Coroplast), it is more cosmetic than functional. It does prevent you from jamming stuff up against the UDC plumbing and possibly messing that up, though.

the wall aids a bit with heat retension to keep more heat near the plumbing.

Alan---the brass check valve you displayed---are you saying it will fit the existing 6 sided?? hole in the fixture? I have been looking for something like that but could not find one(brass) to fit the existing set up and was thinking I would need to modify somehow, but if yours will fit can you send me some information (web site/picture/etc)
Thanks
al
ps-- I'm the one who changes the check valve about 1/month--I also do not put my "wall" in permanently!!!

Al- It should fit the existing 6 sided hole. I used a very large drill and cut a hole where the city water fill used to be and rigged up a all brass setup. I just found the brass replacement with the tank filler next to it on ebay. here is a link to the item that can be purchased.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Repl..._Accessories?hash=item2306a0211c#ht_483wt_877

Back to the Basement of Doom, I managed to modify the walls to include these access doors. The DS wall had that vent register in it, so I moved it into the door panel. BUT, before I could reinstall the panels, I wanted to move the converter and surge suppressor onto a panel attached to the framing under the steps, and install the Charge Wizard pendant I bought. Wrestled the converter out and had to run to Home Depot for some #6 wire in order to move it. Then had to disconnect the suppressor from the breaker panel, and THEN remove the input cable, so I could move it. That #6 cable is like wrestling an anaconda on steroids. Not to mention the ground wire for the converter. Then I had to fish the wire (after putting an extension on it) for the pendant thingy. Finally get it all where I want it, wire fished down, and find that the port for the Charge Wizard is not the same as a standard phone jack...it's smaller. Did I mention that I also found a small water leak at a T-joint off the water heater hot line?
So after another trip to Home Depot for some PEX tools and supplies, and some tools to modify the connector situation, I'll be back at it tomorrow. I'll be replacing the plastic fitting with brass and copper rings. Got a few extra T's, crimp rings and straight fittings to have on hand. Hopefully, I won't get delayed getting started by some fool starting a chimney fire because he's got a decade of creosote built up in his fireplace. And when I finally got to the storage yard, I find the S4B landscaping jerk that parks next to my rig has decided that parking his riding mower and wheel barrow collection under the overhang on my rig again is permitted. I complained previously to the yard management about it. I muscled it out from there (couldn't get the wheels to roll) and left a note on it not to do it again. Next time, he'll find his shiny mower dragged out to the middle of the highway. I don't mess with people, but I sure as #?!* won't be messed with.

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John:
Could it be that your smaller telephone jack connector on the convertor is a telephone HANDSET plug, which is smaller than the telephone LINE modular plug. Radio Shack should have them.

John... nice job on the access panels! Question... what would be behind door #1 (the small white one)?