Escape from the Basement of Doom

I'm done (well, almost). Finally got the Charge Wizard pendant connected and the leaking PEX joint replaced. The modified basement walls are installed, too.

I went to Radio Shack to find the handset size connectors, but they didn't have them. The clerk knew what I meant, but said the only place he'd seen them was online. So I cut the plug off the pendant and attached a line cord plug to the other end of that piece. And put one the wire from the pendant. Used two modular connectors to join the concoction together and plugged it into the converter. It will be a while before I can really test it, though. This is the new mounting for both the surge suppressor (top) and the converter. The pendant is now next to the surge suppressor display in "Master Control."

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As for the leaking PEX joint, that was an experience. When I was at Home Depot figuring out what to get, the old guy in Plumbing said best way to cut it was with a standard tubing cutter. BULL. Tried that and it collapses the pipe to the point that you can't get the fitting in. So I went back and got a plastic pipe cutter. Add that to the supply of copper crimp rings, fittings, and the heavy duty crimping tool, that leak cost almost $150. But now I'm prepared. Do need to find a tool to get those steel crimps off, though. That was a real PITA. It was either get one of them off so I could connect to the next fitting in the line, or replace/rebuild the whole thing from the water heater to the washer/dryer supply. That repair will get tested the same time as the converter mod.

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At least the modified walls went back in without a hitch. I didn't get the brass check valve for the water heater yet, but when I do, it will be easy to get at it.

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Nice job John!! I really like how you mounted the EMS and the convertor! What a jungle in there.... reminds me of something similar! lol

Thanks, Bill. It was the best 2 out of 3 falls wrestling that heavy gauge copper wiring in that confined space (good thing I'm CSR qualified). Doc says I'll be good as new in a month or two . Actually had to resort to my "computer" bifocals instead of my trifocals to see what the xxxx I was doing. But now I can get at the fuses on the converter, if need be, and if I do spring a leak, those two electronic boxes won't be sitting in it. Initially, the converter was almost directly under the vacuum breaker for the tank flusher and that scared me after reading the horror stories of others.

The easiest way to remove the PEX cinch ring is with a good pair of "nippers", and cut across the "nipple". they peel right off with out much trouble.

Thanks, Alan. When I was getting my PEX supplies, I described the kind of crimp rings we had, but got the "deer in the headlights" look. So they had no clue on what tool to use. The color of the handles looks like a Lowe's brand tool. Maybe I'll take a look there. Home Depot is right across the street from the storage yard, so that's where I went.

What I managed to do was slip a small screwdriver into the nipple and work it side to side without putting too much torque on the plastic fitting. Eventually, I got enough play that I could slip one under the "tab" and work it up and loose. This was my first experience with PEX. I've done a fair amount of sweating copper joints, though.

HD should have Nippers too, if not with the rest of the hand tools check near tile flooring as they are commonly used to nip and chip tiles. They will not be with the Plumbing and PEX stuff.

Johndar, I was looking at the stuff Lowe's has yesterday. They have a crimping removal tool. I thought it it was pricey. I like Alan's idea of the Nippers. The removal tool would be nice if you worked this everyday.

I was looking online at some PEX tools. They do make a removal tool for the copper crimp rings that runs less than $30. Since I'm replacing with those, it might be another good tool to have. Can never have too many tools. It probably took me 45 minutes to work that one crimp off without stabbing myself, so it's worth having the right stuff. A possible problem does arise when it comes to attaching the white flex hose into the PEX systems. That hose has an OD of 3/4", so I'm not sure if the 3/4" copper rings will work with it. A 1/2" ring sure won't fit on it. It's hard to tell which size steel crimp they used to attach it. They all look the same. Sounds like a little experiment (outside of the RV) may be in order. Or I might have to use standard screw clamps and hope for the best if I have to replace one.

JohnDar, the 3/4 will probably be too big and won't crimp down tight enough. I would try one of two things. You could skive the hose, as long as you don't cut too deep or too far back, the hose will hold just fine. The screw clamp will also work, but I would see if you can get a good heavy duty one. I also agree that you cannot have enough tools. I will always buy the right tool for the job.

That's pretty much my thinking, but I might try it on some scrap just for grins. A bag of the rings is $5.00, so there's not much expense to it. The other possibility, should the repair arise, is to replace the vinyl hose with 1/2" PEX. Might have to get creative with fittings to work the curvature, but it's doable.

By the way, I got a pair of those tile nippers. I don't know where you guys buy your Wheaties, but they wouldn't touch the stainless steel cinch rings that are on there. Looking online for info, there is no tool that I could find for removing them. I'd hate to be a plumber that makes a mistake putting one on.

Now I've got enough PEX stuff to need a second tool box in the rig.

JohnDar, I do not think that Allen was using tile nippers but something like this:

<DL><DT class=label>Channellock</DT><DT>Model:358</DT><DT> Product Description</DT></DL>
Channellock 358 - 8 inch End Cutter

CHANNELLOCK BLUE comfort grips are only for hand comfort and improved appearance. They are NOT recommended or warranted for dielectric properties

Channellock 358 - 8 inch End Cutter Features:
• Perfectly mated cutters, scientifically heat treated to hold their edge
• Precision made of fine polished, high carbon drop forged steel.
• Distinctive CHANNELLOCK BLUE comfort grips.

Channellock 358 - 8 inch End Cutter Specifications:
• Length (in): 8
• Length (mm): 200
• Weight (oz): 12
• Weight (g): 340
• Jaw Length (in): 11/32
• Jaw Length (mm): 9
• Joint Thickness (in): 25/32
• Joint Thickness (mm): 20
• Joint Width (in): 1 7/8
• Joint Width (mm): 40
• Jaw Thickness (in): 1 3/16
• Jaw Thickness (mm): (in): 30

"HD should have Nippers too, if not with the rest of the hand tools check near tile flooring as they are commonly used to nip and chip tiles. They will not be with the Plumbing and PEX stuff."

I kinda think he did. At any rate, I tried using a hacksaw, large lineman's plier/cutters, and the tile nipper (on a fitting I had cut out). No joy. And the nippers I bought have tungsten carbide blades. The cinch ring just laughed at them all (and I'm no 95 lb weakling, either).

I used the exact nippers pictured in post #4. don't know what they are really for, but the cut the stainless steel clamps off real easy.

Here is a video I just made of my process. enjoy

Hokie, smokes, that's better than posting 8x10 color glossies of you and a Playboy bunny. Guess my mistake was buying Brand X from Home Desparate. The ones like you have were three bucks more at Lowes and I didn't feel like driving the extra few miles to go there. My bad. I tried cutting across the nipple like that and it just told me who my Daddy was.

Good thing I've got a semi-empty extra tool box. I'll need the space. (or did it look easy because you're allergic to Kryptonite?)