Carpentry & Topper questions

01). I may need to take some of the slack out one of my slide toppers. I've never done this before. I assume there is some type of spiral torsion spring that pre-loads the canvass material. As it is now it snaps in the wind and is noisey. I assume if I put more tension on the torsion spring this will tighten up the canvass. Anyone ever do this ?

02). The bedroom door (swing type) in my 3670 must have shifted since it left the factory. The keeper or striker plate (I think that's what they are called) needs to be lowered and a new hole drilled for the latch (about 1/2" or so). If I do this one of the two mounting screws on the sriker plate will be grabbing air because of the prior hole. What should I do, fill the old hole with wood putty and start over ? This must be a common job for carpenters, what's normally done ?

03). Finally, I've got some paneling in the front closet between the washer dryer that is bulging and pulled loose midway. Looks like it may have been cut too long (I don't know what the problem is yet) and the staples or nails won't hold it in. Anyone seen this type problem ?

Finally, I just purchased a Weber Q100 Table top grill. I am carrying the little LP bottles for it in the same storage locker the 30 pounds cylinders are in. This is a well ventilated area and I don't have to be concerned with them leaking in a non-vented locker. Just sharing that little tid-bit. Tom

Looking at my manual for the slide toppers, there is nothing in it about making adjustments. What some of us have done to take out the slack in the main slide topper is build a PVC support that runs the length of the slide. 6" or 7" tall down the middle of the topper. Keeps the water from puddling and stops the flapping. Haven't noticed any real noise from my other three toppers. Others have stuffed soft beach balls under their toppers.

For the door to shift 1/2" vertically is quite a bit. Does the door even shut? Check the hinge side to be sure it's not pulled out at the top.

I had some loose paneling in the main slide last year, right along the edge behind the wood trim facade. Looked like they tried to attach it with brads driven into styrofoam, missing the wood stud. I pryed it open a bit further along the edge and then squirted a fair amount of Liquid Nails (the one labeled for MDF) back there to within 3/4" of the edge and used my brute force (OK, maybe not so brute) to push it back. Used 12" Irwin Quick Clamps from the wood trim onto the panel with some cauls to secure it until it dried. Looks good now.

Since the bottom of my propane tank cabinet is wide open, I put my Weber Baby Q spare bottles in a freebie canvas carry bag and hang them off one of the tanks.

I would check that the front frame isnt flexing with the door becomming 1/2nches off and the paneling bowing. Is that on the truck when it is bowed? Does it change after you take the truck off the hitch?

Rmcgrath53 said:

I would check that the front frame isnt flexing with the door becomming 1/2nches off and the paneling bowing. Is that on the truck when it is bowed? Does it change after you take the truck off the hitch?

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There's that ugly possibility, too. We had our bedroom floor basically rebuilt last fall for what I thought was just an annoying squeak and a little ridge under the carpet at the foot of the bed. Required removing a lot of the front and welding some supports, along with new floor panels. If the door was OK when you got the rig and the problem developed later, I'd get it back to the dealer for inspection before your warranty runs out.

My RV is basically off the TV although still hitched. I leveled ( it is still a little out of level). I came to the same conclusion you guys are heading to.... I think I need to get it back to the dealer for warrenty work while it's still covered. That's easier said then done due to "other" problems. Thks Tom

I agree with others that you may have a bigger problem, and I would surely check on the hinge side of the door. However you did ask about filling srew holes: Use wooden matches(heads removed) and a good wood glue. Push 2-3 matches with plenty of glue into the hole--wait about 24 hours and use a knife to cut off anything that is left sticking out of the hole. YOu can then screw into this and should have good holding power.
al