Converter Problem??????

A recent water overflow problem in the bathroom caused some water to leak into the basement area and most likely leaked on the PD9260C Power Converter and the LPT50BRD Transfer Switch.

A few days later, problems were encountered with the 12v side with the monitor panel reading “L”. The most probable cause was the converter was not working, so I hooked up an external charger to the battery & this got the 12V system going again.

At the same time the GFI receptacle by the sink went out & now we are having an 110V problem including:
Fridge only operates on gas
Microwave/convection oven has no power
No power in the 2 duplexes above the sink
Water heater won’t operate on electricity
I’m not sure if this problem is caused by the apparent Power Converter issue or if it is just a coincidence. I would appreciate feedback on this.

Next, I opened up the area where the converter is located & discovered a ‘bag of snakes’ of wires, fresh water pipes, waste water pipes, furnace air pipes, etc. Also, the cap for the Transfer Switch was not properly secured to the box so this was a potential problem area. (Someone should get their knuckles rapped for this shoddy workmanship).

I then consulted the Manual for the Converter & came of the conclusion that the first thing to consider was to examine the status of the 3x 25A fuses labeled on the schematic as REVERSE BATTERY PROTECTION FUSE(S)). The way the Converter was installed it was almost impossible to remove the breakers but after much struggling I was able to remove them using needle nosed pliers. During this step I did cause some arcing when removing one of the fuses. On examination this fuse and one other seem to be ‘burnt’. I replaced all 3 of these fuses (what a struggle trying to get the fuses in due to the cramped space). This replacement didn’t see to help the situation).

I’m not sure where to go from here. To do any other test at the converter is both beyond my technical capabilities and beyond my agility to get further access to the converter.

Progressive Dynamics has a replacement program for $100 plus S&H they will swap a faulty unit. If they cannot repair the faulty unit there would be a further charge of approximately $100.

I’m considering taking advantage of this offering. Once the new unit arrives having a qualified technician installed the converter in a more accessible location along with the Transfer Switch.

I would appreciate any feedback that you have on my dilemma .


CS

The 110v problem sounds like a tripped or bad GFI recepticle. All those things are on the same line I think. Maybe the HWT is on its own breaker, if not it should be

noobee,

Not sure what your looking for here. Do you want some help with a trouble-shooting procedure? Do you have a DMM ( a voltmeter?)

A Digital Voltmeter is a necessity in troubleshooting general electrical problems.
Have you checked the circuit breaker panel? Specifically, are the breakers for the convertor and bathroom wall plugs (GFI) on? Turning those breakers off, then back on, will ensure this, as sometimes you can't see the slight difference between the breaker handle "tripped" and "on" positions.
The outlet problems are probably due to the GFI tripping. I would expect the heater element for the fridge to be on its own circuit, but do seem to remember people saying that the GFI trip affected it. The microwave and water heater are both high current and should each be on its own circuit breaker and NOT common to the GFI. Do the circuit breaker reset for EVERY breaker on the panel, regardless of what it is marked.

You need to be sure that the convertor is getting input power. If you can hear or feel the fan running or the convertor humming, then it is getting power. Otherwise you will have to measure at the power input connection points.
Let me say that what you report is consistent with what other owners with water leaks in the convertor area have reported, and usually a new convertor is the best fix, especially for your peace of mind away from home. Some people have remounted the convertor on a wall away from water sources, or come up with a "roof" to protect the convertor in its installed location. BTW, you DID fix the leak that started this all?

The GFI, since it protects other outlets, will have 1 set of input wires on it as well as 1 set of output wires. The output wires go to the other outlets the GFI protects. If you are comfortable with electrical wiring (do all repairs with the electrical supply to the trailer DISCONNECTED), remove the output wires from the GFI, restore power, and see if the GFI still trips. If it does still trip, you probably have a bad GFI. If it doesn't still trip, you need to trace the wiring to the successive outlets from the GFI, looking at each outlet for moisture. A hair dryer can help you remove some moisture, or replace the affected outlet. Get professional help if you are not comfortable with this.

Good luck!!!

I can't help you with the converter failure, but if you replace it, this is what I did with mine. It was originally installed at the back wall of the basement, under a pile of wires and plumbing. Just getting it out of there was a job. I attached a section of 3/4" plywood to the framing of the steps and mounted both the converter and my surge suppressor there. Out of the way of almost all water lines and possible puddles. They're now easily accessible behind the removeable wooden panel with the vent plate in it. The fuses on the converter are in plain view now.
View attachment 8568
View attachment 8567

JohnDar said:

I can't help you with the converter failure, but if you replace it, this is what I did with mine. It was originally installed at the back wall of the basement, under a pile of wires and plumbing. Just getting it out of there was a job. I attached a section of 3/4" plywood to the framing of the steps and mounted both the converter and my surge suppressor there. Out of the way of almost all water lines and possible puddles. They're now easily accessible behind the removeable wooden panel with the vent plate in it. The fuses on the converter are in plain view now.
View attachment 8568
View attachment 8567

Click to expand...

Regarding the placement of the converter & transfer switch, I plan to do something like this once I get the converter issue resolved, so thanks for the picture. I'll probably get a technician to do this while replacing the converter as I'm not comfortable with dealing with the 12V system nor am I agile enoigh to get at the components.

CS

wdk450 said:

A Digital Voltmeter is a necessity in troubleshooting general electrical problems.
Yes, I have a voltmeter.

Have you checked the circuit breaker panel? Specifically, are the breakers for the convertor and bathroom wall plugs (GFI) on? Turning those breakers off, then back on, will ensure this, as sometimes you can't see the slight difference between the breaker handle "tripped" and "on" positions.
The outlet problems are probably due to the GFI tripping. I would expect the heater element for the fridge to be on its own circuit, but do seem to remember people saying that the GFI trip affected it. The microwave and water heater are both high current and should each be on its own circuit breaker and NOT common to the GFI. Do the circuit breaker reset for EVERY breaker on the panel, regardless of what it is marked.
I have done the breaker reset as you mentioned and status does not change. I plan to remove the GFI & test the wires and if I'm getting power I'll replace the GFI.

You need to be sure that the convertor is getting input power. If you can hear or feel the fan running or the convertor humming, then it is getting power. Otherwise you will have to measure at the power input connection points.
No humming & no fan running both before & after I replaced the fuses
Let me say that what you report is consistent with what other owners with water leaks in the convertor area have reported, and usually a new convertor is the best fix, especially for your peace of mind away from home. Some people have remounted the convertor on a wall away from water sources, or come up with a "roof" to protect the convertor in its installed location. BTW, you DID fix the leak that started this all?
Leak was caused by Mr, Dumbass, me.... I'm too embarrassed to discuss further, but it is fixed. As it appears that I've ruined the converter, I'll contact Progressive tomorrow to take advantage of their exchange program. I'll have it wall mounted, along with the transfer switch to avoid flooding it again

The GFI, since it protects other outlets, will have 1 set of input wires on it as well as 1 set of output wires. The output wires go to the other outlets the GFI protects. If you are comfortable with electrical wiring (do all repairs with the electrical supply to the trailer DISCONNECTED), remove the output wires from the GFI, restore power, and see if the GFI still trips. If it does still trip, you probably have a bad GFI. If it doesn't still trip, you need to trace the wiring to the successive outlets from the GFI, looking at each outlet for moisture. A hair dryer can help you remove some moisture, or replace the affected outlet. Get professional help if you are not comfortable with this.
As per the above I'll do further testing of the GFI & replace it if necessary.

Good luck!!!

Click to expand...

Thanks for all your help.

Hi I have a 2007 cyclone and I think when we were camping, the power surged or something, It fried my microwave, dvd, tv, and now the fridge will work but on gas, I am think there is a problem on the converter or something because when I am plugged in my batteries will not charge, Can any one help, Plus I don't know where the converter is on this 5th wheel

Hi doudekerk,

Welcome to the Heartland Owners Forum and Family. We have a great bunch of people here with lots of information and all willing to share their knowledge if needed.

I do not have a Cyclone myself, but I am sure someone will jump in here and give you some good advice. Hopefully you have checked all your fuses and reset all your breakers as your first move. I think there are fuses on the converter, but your microwave, TV, dvd, and the a/c side of fridge should be on the regular 110 circuit. Check your main breakers, turn them off and push them to the off side hard... sometimes they open and look like they are OK.

Let us know what you find.

Jim M

Ditto what Jim mentioned, smart money says a breaker tripped. I hope so, this means no trip to Lowes or HD...

Fried or don't work?????????? If they just aren't getting power it might be your GFI plug. On my unit it is the duplex on the bathroom vanity.

CS

BTW: once you get the problem solved I suggest you get a power protector like a SurgeGuard.

I had a surge fry almost all of the same things. It is possible it is a breaker because your converter supplies the charging to your battery when it converts 110 v Ac to 12 v DC. There are some fuses on the converter (3 30amp) Not sure where it is on the Cyclone but call customer service and they can tell you if you don't want to wait for a reply on the forum. Also if your converter is out you can go buy an inexpensive battery charger and hook it to the battery (has to plug into AC) and that will keep your battery up until you can get your converter fixed. That is what we did. Now we carry the battery charger with us just in case.