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KENNY COCHRAN
08-17-2010, 04:33 PM
I have a dometic rm1350, (serial #646-00001) in a 2010, #3670rl bighorn rv(mfg. 3-5-2009)
the 2 outside fans on the back of the refrigerator are not working. I have 12 volts going to the top left side of the cooling fins. Looks like it plugs into a heat sensor(disk?) and there is no voltage coming out on the other side of this sensor on this wire. Does this mean this sensor is bad, or is there something else i need to be checking.
Thanks,
kenny cochran

2010augusta
08-17-2010, 04:58 PM
that disk is a thermal switch set to close at ~130*F. I just installed a rocker switch to bypass the thermal switch, so the fans could run 24/7 when needed.

Your switch is probably fine, and dometic has NO other temp switch, so you get 130* or a rocker switch.

KENNY COCHRAN
08-17-2010, 09:52 PM
Thanks so much! Few questions to get it working
1. Can i bypass the thermal switch by putting those wires in a wire nut so the fans will stay on all the time and add a switch later?
2. Can i get a thermal switch later with a lower temp. Setting? I know other appliances may have a lower setting. Does that thermal switch plug into the cooling fins or just has to be rubbing against the fins?
Thanks,
kenny

wdk450
08-18-2010, 12:43 AM
These are typically just a bimetallic snap disk switch, so you could bypass the switch with an alligator jumper, or tie the wires together.
You could put a lower rated thermal switch in (try searching the Newark Electronics online catalog), but I would tend to trust the values decided upon by the refrigerator manufacturer's engineering staff. Many times you can webb search the numbers printed on an electronic component to get a source.

KENNY COCHRAN
08-18-2010, 01:21 PM
Thanks to both of you for your help. I bypassed the thermal switch and have the fans running 24 hours a day. Due to design issues(on this dometic unit), i really need the fans on all the time in south louisiana. I may add a lower rated switch in the future. Thanks!!!

FATHERHEART3
08-20-2010, 11:33 AM
I have a 2009 pinehearst with a rm 1350 refer..Had it out three times..This weekend my refer on the bottom would not get below 51 degrees..the freezer worked fine.What is wrong..LP and elec.Were full and hooked up..Need Help..

Thanks,
Firewind5@aol.com
Wendell McGowan
Redding ,Ca.96002

lwmcguir
08-21-2010, 05:18 AM
A fridge fan will certainly help. Plaace in on the bottom and turn it on. Shoud get about a month on the batteries. Watch carefully not to have the doors open extended times. Keep the coach as cool as you can stand during the heat of the day.

wdk450
08-21-2010, 09:33 AM
Kenny:
You ought to look into the refrigerator venting threads. Fans only aren't always the answer - it's the path the air draft takes over the 2 sets of cooling fins.
Here is one of the threads - I suggest you do a search of "refig venting"
//heartlandowners.org/showthread.php/16459-Refrigerator-Question?

lwmcguir
08-21-2010, 06:24 PM
When possible we always try to park with the Fridge facing away from the sun during the heat of the day. An old habit that always seemed to help way back when.

KENNY COCHRAN
08-21-2010, 10:30 PM
Thanks bill, i have read every one several times. We are still having a problem. Out of town and had a local dometic repairman 5 miles from our campgrd in texas promise to come out. He never showed after talking to us several times and did not return our calls. Will deal with this coming week when we get back to south louisiana. Also had a pin hole leak in the ice maker line this weekend, but it was not spraying on any of the ref. Stuff, just under the bottom shelf. Will fix that later too.

lwmcguir
08-22-2010, 09:22 AM
Sure thou gt the fridge fan would help some. If the freezer is cold then it should for sure. Is your flame good, burning nice and blue on the boiler? Following up on the thought of the propane, does you stove have a nice blue flame. Rarely but it does happen, LP isnt always up to spec. It could be low BTU gas.

sgtbigb
08-22-2010, 02:30 PM
OH BOY! I just pick up my 20100 Landmark in Nashville with the RM1350 and when we stop in Dallas on our way to San Antonio the frigerator quit and gave a code E 3. [The overheated thermostat is disconnected] Service is required. Well we took it to a dealer here in San Antonio Last monday and hopeful get it back soon:=[ Oh tea it was 105 degrees when it quit!

sdagro
08-23-2010, 04:49 AM
Well y'all...After all the bragging I've done done about my venting mods, I am still having problems. I definitely think it's a design problem on Dometic/Heartland. This weekend while at Bayou Segnette SP in Westwego,LA our fridge reading was 40-45 on the temp gauge at the top of unit. Actual temp inside ranged from 47-52 degrees....not quit food safe temps. Electronic thermometer is at least 7 degrees off. Sever storm came thru on Saturday and toppled a huge tree which fell between my camper and truck causing no damage to camper but several dents in truck. That's another story for another day. That was around 3pm. Outside temp cooled to around 80 degrees, fridge never dropped. I have a problem thinking that outside temps, fans and such affect the functions of these units that much, and if they do something should be done about it rather than keep using the same installs and designs that they use. Not sure but it seems like the RM1350 is having the most sever problems. Thought I read on here somewhere that Dometic is using the same cooling unit on the RM1350 13/14cubic ft. unit as they do in the 9 CF model. IMO the 4 door units do no seal as well either. This could be part of the problem also. As you all can tell I am ******** to say the least. Those $$ have a 2 part meaning as well. Thought after 4 months I would have all the bugs removed. Key-less entry also went out this weekend as well as an intermittent leak under the belly which seems to be from the shower drain. Will make an appointment today to get my "NEW LIST" of problems checked out. Steve A. Dagro

lwmcguir
08-23-2010, 05:29 AM
I think our next unit will be a regular French door fridge and the heck with the gas. use the inverter and two batteries and that will get you to where you are going. Good fridges don't pull but around 100 watts in the 14 cubic feet size.

The boiler/burner seems to be to small as you are pointing out. We can cool ours but I am certainly not happy with the recovery times. Really have to watch the door open time for sure.

jmgratz
08-23-2010, 07:18 AM
Bells and whistles (gadgets and features) are very nice but open the door for additional problems. One thing that will help keep the fridge cooler is a battery operated fan in the bottom of the refrigerator. Remember the refrigerator/freezer does not operate like one in the sticks and bricks. There is no compressor in it. The key is to be sure the hot in in the back moves up and out and that the insulation around the unit is in place. Sounds like you have already looks at many of these. Good luck.

sdagro
08-23-2010, 10:22 AM
I bought one of those 12v fans off of ebay to circulate the air. It mounts to the fins and connects to the always hot side of the fridge light. Seems to circulate the air very well. i wonder if a smaller fridge with the slide out pantry has a better chance of cooling in the Louisiana heat. Not sure what type of mod would have to be made to do that. I'd give up the space in a heartbeat if I could be "guaranteed" to have a fridge that gets and stays cold. Steve A. Dagro

cookie
08-23-2010, 04:34 PM
I hope I don't jinx myself here, but our rm1350 is set on no.4 and keeps the refer at 34. goes up to 38 when we are in and out of it a lot. Freezer is 0.
I did install a baffle behind the upper vent, to get the air to move over the upper fins.
Fatherheart and others with cold freezers and warm refer compartments check to be sure that the inside light goes off when the door is closed. A bad switch could warm things up real fast.

Peace
Dave

sdagro
08-23-2010, 09:56 PM
Just went in camper and digital read-out is showing 47 degrees which means actual temp inside is in the 50's. Put a digital thermometer in fridge and freezer. Will give my finding in the morning before I bring it in to dealer. Hopefully we can get a conference call with HEARTLAND and DOMETIC and come to some type of agreement on what the **** to do! Steve A. Dagro

lwmcguir
08-24-2010, 01:34 PM
I bought one of those 12v fans off of ebay to circulate the air. It mounts to the fins and connects to the always hot side of the fridge light. Seems to circulate the air very well. i wonder if a smaller fridge with the slide out pantry has a better chance of cooling in the Louisiana heat. Not sure what type of mod would have to be made to do that. I'd give up the space in a heartbeat if I could be "guaranteed" to have a fridge that gets and stays cold. Steve A. Dagro

We had a Dometic and a slide out pantry in our Yellowstone. For 9 years while we had it it kept things at 34 degrees no matter what the siduation or temps. It only had an auto setting so was very glad it worked well. It would do this on electric or LP.

aatauses
08-24-2010, 01:44 PM
Another thing to consider---I installed a solar fan near the coils on the outside. I just ran the wire from the fan out the vent and up to the top of the slide out (no drilling). It has helped us quite a bit here in Prosser, WA.
al

lwmcguir
08-24-2010, 02:05 PM
Did the technician make sure your burner flame was adequate. About 5 refrigerators back we had problems cooling quickly. I took it apart and ran a orifice drill down the orifice. It had a bur on it and removing that obstruction let the flame create enough more heat the fridge cooled down. This was probably a 7 cubic foot so the flame was pretty small. Worth looking into.

sgtbigb
08-24-2010, 06:27 PM
Just got my unit back from the dealer, He said Dometic told them to reset the breaker, which he did and it has been cold for 2 days. I reset the same breaker but it did not work for me?????. We will take it out again next month to Corpus, and hope we do not have trouble!!

KENNY COCHRAN
08-27-2010, 07:07 AM
I have not seen a repairman yet. Had one lined up to come to campground in gladewater texas (dometic rep) but he never showed and never returned my calls. I have plans to bring rv to a dealer closer to my home, waiting on proper time (tailgating) to bring it to him. Still holding in the 45 -50 temp range.

lwmcguir
08-27-2010, 06:22 PM
Just got my unit back from the dealer, He said Dometic told them to reset the breaker, which he did and it has been cold for 2 days. I reset the same breaker but it did not work for me?????. We will take it out again next month to Corpus, and hope we do not have trouble!!

Curious as to what resetting the breaker would do. If someone knows it would be interesting for sure.

sdagro
08-29-2010, 02:04 PM
Below are a few replies I received from my post on rv.net earlier today. Very interesting.

Gale Hawkins wrote:
http://www.rv.net/SharedContent/cfb/images/x.gif
Norcold and Dometic both have pushed the absorption refrigerater use in a confined RV closet beyond its limits it seems. Builders have compounded the problem by putting the technology in places were no roof vent could be installed.

They work OK it seems in less than 90 degree weather. There must be about 3 three threads going on the Norcold 1200 right now on these forums. More fans seem to help per some post on the issue of air movement behind the fridge.


You are confusing the blame. Norcold and Dometic build products that DO WORK. The problem is the OEM RV maker that does NOT build the cabinet and ventilation areas to correctly operate the refers. As to the RM 1350, That is an Edsel that Dometic built 4 to 5 years ago and NOBODY really wanted to put that in (OEM's). The LAST 1350 built was in 2006/2007 and Dometic has a warehouse full of them. We had a customer in a Georgetown that wanted a new refer because of his problems and Dometic told us, that the "newest" they had was from 2006/07, so the customer elected NOT to get a new refer. The 1350 needs a LOT of fan ventilation to function. Doug

irk wrote:
http://www.rv.net/SharedContent/cfb/images/x.gif
Dougrainer,

You may well know, but do you mind sharing your information source?

Well, I am a Master Certified RV tech (32 years as a tech) and the info is straight from Dometic. Not the Edsel parthttp://www.rv.net/SharedContent/cfb/images/biggrin.gif Just my opinion, since they have a warehouse full and very few OEM's option the 1350. The 1350 is almost identical to the 1200/1210 Norcold, and I will bet the Norcold may be cheaper, so OEM's use the Norcold and NOT the 1350. Doug

sdagro
08-29-2010, 03:13 PM
I guess I've got too much time on my hands right now but I found some more interesting info this time on Dometic's website. Looked up on the replacement chart on their website, and saw where where there is no replacement for the RM1350 as it says it is a CURRENT model. Also looked up the specs on another model--the RM1402, which is a true 2 door side-by-side. RM1350 weighs in at 198# while the RM1402 weighs in at a hefty 328#. Same exact dimensions and the 1350 is 130# lighter. What do y'all read into this? Could it be the 1402 has a bigger cooling unit and boiler? Sure would like some answers on this one. Steve

sdagro
08-30-2010, 05:54 PM
Went to dealer today to check on my Bighorn and bring the replacement keypad that was sent to me from Southco. Day 7---still there. Working on the smaller problems but still waiting to get together with Dometic/Heartland. Did go in camper to check a few things including the manufactured date of fridge. Inside the door on the production label was stamped 2010. Didn't really pay attention to the month, but did see as plain as day that this fridge was built in 2010. Not sure how that happened since they SUPPOSEDLY have not made any since 2006/2007. I don't know who to beleive anymore. Just can't wait to get camper back. Steve

KENNY COCHRAN
09-02-2010, 12:01 AM
Steve - bringing mine to dealer next week on tuesday. He said he has talked to heartland & dometic and will get it working one way or the other. I will keep you posted, as i don't think there will be a solution. Mine is on 50' today and keeping steady at that temp. Guess i should be happy it is not any hotter.
(just for steve: Geaux cowboys!!)

sdagro
09-03-2010, 08:07 PM
Hey Kenny, I say "Geaux Cowboys" also...except when they play LSwho!! On a more serious not, mine has been in shop now 9 working days...2 weeks. still no cure. Still "blame game" going on. I talked to Heartland today and they told tech to take top vent panel off and place an exhaust fan in top and call to give them reading at hottest part of day. Not sure if they did "test" or not. I do know that they closed a little early for the holiday weekend. Now i won't know anything til Tuesday. Went by at 4pm and crew had left. Shop foreman let me go in and check out fridge temp. 39 degrees with slides closed. I'm sure it would have been warmer with sun hitting all sides with slide open. I will be there at 7:30am Tuesday to find out and get another call in to Heartland or Dometic--whom the tech spoke to both today. Its getting very "TESTY" around the house these days, especially on the 22nd...when the note is due.. As much as I hate to say so, I hope the weather stays hot long enough to solve both of our cooling problems. I can't wait to hear of the "FIX" they have for your unit. Eric is supposedly "THE MAN" at Heartland to confer with. I'll be waiting to here from you on this. Maybe someone else knows different? Have a great Labor Day. Steve

KENNY COCHRAN
09-05-2010, 11:15 PM
Thanks for the update on your rig. We were tailgating from friday noon till sunday noon at mcneese. We beat lamar 30-27 and just hung on like lsu did.
My fridge has not been working for over a month. I was/am bringing it in tuesday morning. Well guess what, the outside temp. Dropped and that *amn thing started cooling. I can't figure it out!! Temp dropped to 33-34 range before starting to go back up. Fridge was empty except for a 20# bag of ice we put in to save for later. We have an away game this week then an open date so i can leave it in the shop for a little while. I will keep you posted.
Did you ever get your computer fixed? I got about 3 -4 emails from you which looked like somebody had taken over your computer. Letters were all jumbled up and we did not open them.
Question for the msu/lsu game. How does your group get to tiger stadium from the rv park? We don't have parking there and hear that may be a problem. We know the charter bus operator that is bringing 4 buses or so of fans. I was thinking we could maybe get one of his buses to bring us & your crew to the game? Would traffic be to bad for that idea? What do you suggest? Kenny

sdagro
09-06-2010, 11:40 PM
Got computer out of shop. Didn't have any viruses. they changed my email password and while they had it(5 days) no random emails were sent out. When did you receive the last "no subject" emails from me? On a lighter note, we take the shuttle from Farr Park which last year was $15.00/person. Drops you off on the corner by the old Alex Box and p/u at the Tiger cage. Only problem is sometimes campus obscurity(security) routes us the long way home and it has taken us as long as 2 hrs. I will keep you updated on that as well as getting a spot for your son. I will be waiting for dealership to open their doors tomorrow morning and will stay there til I have answers on what they will do. Steve

KENNY COCHRAN
09-07-2010, 09:49 PM
1. Good news on your computer, my son, cory, (lsu tiger) is a computer expert if you ever need him again. He will "fix" minor stuff for you for free if you bring it to the game and he has the time.
2. Last "no subject" was sept. 3rd that i saw.
3. Dang, sounds like the shuttle is the way to go, but i don't want to wait 2 hours to get back.

sdagro
09-08-2010, 09:01 PM
I will talk to this guy Francis who tailgates at Farr Park. He is in good with LSU Chief of Police. last year once he told the chief what was going on he took care of things and shuttle was allowed a more direct route back to Farr park. Hopefully by the McNeese game everything will be hashed out. You do know that these small police dept. seem like they have to "RE-LEARN" every year what to do. Not sure if I told you or not...Dometic is sending me a new fridge. Why??? Who knows. Tech was told to hang a 10" box fan on the outside of the top vent which he did and fridge ran at 37 degrees and freezer at 0 all day today. I went got it because I need it at my house for a tailgate/engagement party for a nephew and by the time I got home it was up to 40 in fridge and 10 in freezer. Steve

sdagro
09-08-2010, 09:10 PM
Sorry Kenny, I forgot something. Not sure who your dealer is but tell them to stay on Dometic/Heartland because if you don't---they won't do anything. My dealer, Wayne Mitchell told me that they will listen to the buyer/customer a lot better/quicker than a dealer. You can call Eric(Heartland)574-262-8030 EXT. 1138 and tell him the problem and the person to talk to at the dealer. This seemed to open up a quicker line of communication for me. Of course they still seem to be clue-less as to what to do. I'm kinda counting on you to find out a little more than I am. :) Steve

KENNY COCHRAN
09-08-2010, 10:05 PM
Let me know what model fridge you get. I don't want another of the same model unless they have a new series or make the cooling stuff bigger. No news on mine yet, i'm sure it is running in the mid 40-50's. You see my other note about the braces i have? Kenny

sdagro
09-09-2010, 08:44 AM
Yes. I still have the JT Strong-Arms that i took off of my Wildcat. Called the manufacturer and he said they will fit mine. Have my camper home now waiting for the same fridge replacement. They will not replace with anything but like same appliance. really sucks huh. Get this. They still claim it is refrigerator problem thats why they are sending a new one out on Monday. However they told tech to hang 10" box fan on outside of camper at top vent which they did. In the direct sun--after installing the fan freezer was at "0" and fridge was at "35/37". Now what does that tell you? Sounds like a ventilation problem to me ay. They to tech to plug in new fridge in shop to make sure it works before installing. ****, mine is working installed as long as it is in the shop or has a 10" fan sucking the air out. They were told all of this then the 2 geniuses---Dometic/Heartland decided I needed a new fridge. My tech told me something I will NEVER forget..."Mr. Steve you will never be happy with this fridge". Can't get it out of my mind. He swears the only way to fix it would be to remove the cabinet drawer below the fridge, drop the fridge and get the top of fridge away from top of slide as well as positioned better to top vent. He told them in conference call yesterday and I think they ignored him. Gotta go cook lunch for 20 bankers today. See ya. Keep me posted on yours. Other brand that should fit our sceranrio is the Norcold 1210. Good reviews. 1/16" narrower and wider but 2" shallower. Later. Steve

KENNY COCHRAN
09-09-2010, 08:04 PM
No news on mine yet, hopefully they are keeping their beer in it cold or either monitoring it for a few days to see how it don't work in the la. Heat. I guess if they keep it till december, it will start cooling better! We will be out of touch for the next few days, so, if you get any more info on yours, email me as i will not be checking this board. I have been keeping my dealer updated on your progress, in hopes it may help. Kenny

sdagro
09-09-2010, 10:45 PM
GO SAINTS!!!!WHO DAT!!! Favre should have retired for good the 1st time he retired.

Anyway, enough of that. Kenny, my fridge ran all day outside in the sun, slides open with a cute little 10" box fan hanging on the outside in front of the top vent. 35-37 degrees in fridge and 0 in freezer. I will call Dometic tomorrow and tell them they need to duplicate the 10" fan in the inside compartment in the upper area. Why should air sucking from the top have a better cooling effect than air blowing from the bottom? Keep it clean y'all. We are talking fans and fridges here!! Perhaps the 4 little fans behind fridge need a little help. Not hardly any more room back there to add any. Would be nice to put 4 fans at the top vent on inside but with the baffle there is no room. Will post more tomorrow after Dometic conversation. Steve

KENNY COCHRAN
09-09-2010, 11:16 PM
I now have one of the 2 little 4" fans and have added 2 - 6" fans. Still no help. Maybe i need to put a couple on the top to blow out?? I watched the last 10 minutes of the saints game and am glad they won. My wife said if you have gray hair and a gray beard, you are too old to play in the nfl, i think she is pretty close to being right.

sdagro
09-10-2010, 05:57 AM
I believe I am beginning to think too deep on this subject. Woke up this morning trying to figure this. If I put 3-4 of those 120mm 6-bladed fans up against the top of the top vent from the inside, when the air hits the ribbing on the vent is it going to create turbulence and form a back-draft in the opposite direction. Thought about cutting that area out and putting some other type of "grating" but then rain could blow in.

wdk450
09-10-2010, 09:45 AM
GO SAINTS!!!!WHO DAT!!! Favre should have retired for good the 1st time he retired.

Anyway, enough of that. Kenny, my fridge ran all day outside in the sun, slides open with a cute little 10" box fan hanging on the outside in front of the top vent. 35-37 degrees in fridge and 0 in freezer. I will call Dometic tomorrow and tell them they need to duplicate the 10" fan in the inside compartment in the upper area. Why should air sucking from the top have a better cooling effect than air blowing from the bottom? Keep it clean y'all. We are talking fans and fridges here!! Perhaps the 4 little fans behind fridge need a little help. Not hardly any more room back there to add any. Would be nice to put 4 fans at the top vent on inside but with the baffle there is no room. Will post more tomorrow after Dometic conversation. Steve


Steve:
I can't give you an exact reason why the fans work better mounted above the cooling fins, but the info that I have read online about RV adsorbsion refrigerators says that the outside fin cooling air should be a DRAFT (not forced air), much as in a fireplace chimney. Read the paragraph on "Fans" in this link and you will see it states exactly what you experienced. http://www.rvmobile.com/tech/Trouble/vent.htm . Also note the clearances and baffles specified at the end of the venting page in the illustration for side vented refrigerators.
BTW, I consider this RV Mobile.com to be a great source of RV refrigerator info. Just look at this troubleshooting index page:
http://www.rvmobile.com/tech/Trouble/Index.htm

sdagro
09-19-2010, 08:22 PM
Tail gated for 4 days at LSU this weekend. Here is my refrigerator history for the 4 days. Left home on Thursday, fridge was 34 and freezer 0. Arrived in BR 1hr 10min. later(10:30am) and fridge was 38 and freezer 10. 2 hrs later fridge had dropped to 34 and freezer back to 0. Friday afternoon at 3pm the temp began to rise to 40 and 15. Hooked up my "redneck fan" that I was told to hang from top vent and temp dropped again. Saturday was a B-L-U-R-R-R.
This morning with outside temp around 70 degrees, the fridge was at 40 and freezer at 12. No consistency. Even when the temp spikes it is not always in the hottest part of the day, just as the coldest temps are not always in the coolest part of the day. Will call Dealer and Heartland tomorrow and see if they can bypass the thermostat on fans to make them stay on 24/7 as I am always plugged in to either truck or 50A. Hope Kenny is having better luck with his diagnosis. Steve A. Dagro

KENNY COCHRAN
09-19-2010, 09:12 PM
Steve - no info on mine yet, it has been in the shop 2 weeks come this tuesday. I will call monday and see if they have a game plan yet. I really don't expect much after watching your problem. Still no solution in site in my opinion.
We went to new orleans for the weekend and got to watch the lsu game. The qb was awol in the 1st half. Hopefully they can find one asap.
Kenny

KENNY COCHRAN
10-19-2010, 10:06 AM
Fridge is working better after several modifications by my dealer. I will defer judgment until later.
I am having problems when i unplug from 120 volts and drive down the hwy. After a few minutes on lp gas, the fridge, flashes "lp" off and on. It is not working as the temp. Goes up pretty quick in the fridge. We normally are not traveling that far & that helps. But it does run the temp. Up in the fridge. What does the flashing lp mean and how do i fix it? Thanks everybody.

wdk450
10-19-2010, 05:10 PM
Kenny:
Regarding the flashing LP message. See page 26 of the manual, URL follows: http://manuals.heartlandowners.org/Appliances/Refrigerator/Dometic/RM1350_Dometic_Refer_Install_&_Operating_Instructions.pdf

BTW, I found this on the Heartland Tools/Manuals tab at the top of this page.

newbie
10-19-2010, 05:59 PM
I think on of the biggest factors that has not been considered in this thread is the left hand bottom door not sealing (closing) at the bottom. I have all the same symptoms described in this thread and the culprit seems to be the door does not close all the time at the bottom. It looks likes it is closed and the lock will engage but if you run your hand under the bottom door where the seal should seal, you can feel cold air leaking.

It seems that any object either on the door or shelf that interferes with the door closing will cause the left hand door not to seal and the temps rise and will never come down to the low 30's.

I think this, along with poor rear ventilation are the two main reason we have so many problems with this unit. The ventilation can be resolved but the mullion is another story.

John

wdk450
10-20-2010, 12:36 PM
It seems that any object either on the door or shelf that interferes with the door closing will cause the left hand door not to seal and the temps rise and will never come down to the low 30's.

John

Maybe this would be another good use for an Infrared Thermometer, besides checking your tires for uneven heat gain on the road. You could scan around the door edges looking for cold spots.

sdagro
10-20-2010, 01:52 PM
YIPPEEEE!!!!!!! Got my 3760 back on Monday with the brand new RM1350 Fridge. The auto door lock even works on this one. My problems are over now...MAYBE. The jury will remain out until the weather heats up again next spring. I really wish I could be more optimistic but I am just a little shell shocked. Kenny, hope you get your gaskets soon. Have fun in Hammond. Call me if you get into anything you can't get out of. I KNOW PEOPLE!!! Steve

newbie
10-20-2010, 05:20 PM
What does the auto door lock do? I read in the manual and posted on this forum a while ago that the manual states the refrigerator is supposed to lock automatically when the camper is rolling down the road. The forum administrator posted that that feature was for motor homes not 5th wheels. So I figured they were not supposed to auto lock. Interesting.

boatto5er
10-20-2010, 07:07 PM
Ours has the auto door locks. Approximately 3-5 seconds after any of the doors close, the auto door lock activates. The doors cannot be opened without manually engaging the unlock slide. It's great for ensuring the doors don't come open when travelling, but can be a bit of a pain in the a.. when at a campsite.

KENNY COCHRAN
10-20-2010, 09:43 PM
1. You are right about the door seals, i'm still waiting on a new set to come in for mine. I think that will hopefully fix mine. Seems the wife is cleaning mildew around the gaskets and the dealer said my door seals failed the dollar bill test.
2. Steve - come by in hammond friday night or saturday during the day. Call me before you come in case we are running around.

newbie
10-21-2010, 06:41 PM
The seals on the bottom of my fridge wouldn't pass the finger test. Last night I opened and closed the door several times cheking the seal each time. I noticed the when the right door was opened and then closed, just the air pressure would push the left door open about a half an inch at the bottom. You cannot tell just by looking at the doors that it is not sealed at the bottom. When I am midful, I always push both doors closed after opening the fridge. If I religiously do that (and Mrs. Newbie) the fridge will stay in the low 30's.

John

KENNY COCHRAN
11-03-2010, 09:50 PM
My fridge "computer board" went out last week and dealer changed it. It is now on 34' and set on #4. I think it may be working fine, however, the outside temp. Is no longer 98 and 98% humidity in south louisiana. I'm still waiting on new door seals from dometic for the last month or so. Hopefully with those, my problem will be fixed during the winter months. Crossing my fingers to see how it works in the heat of la.

KENNY COCHRAN
11-09-2010, 11:32 PM
Update #391
computer board on fridge went black today. Still had ice in freezer so it was not off very long. Brought to dealer and he put a man on it. Found out we only had 6 volts or so at the computer board. On the outside of the fridge we had 12 volts. Went back inside and it was working. Repair man said it was most likely a bad wiring harness from the back of fridge to the computer board. Got it back running and hopefully it is working now!! Will try to get a new wiring harness from dometic if they will spring for it!
Kenny

KENNY COCHRAN
02-20-2011, 01:32 AM
Hopefully last update on this dometic unit. Brought back to dometic dealer within one week of the november post above. Fridge went dead again. Dealer ordered the wiring harness. Have been waiting on it to come in since n o v e m b e r of 2010!!*!*!*!*!* evidently dometic is not very good in getting parts from sweden, norway or somewhere in europe or china. Brought to dealer and they kept it a few days and i have it home now. Seems to be working, but when the ambient temp. Is below 50, the fridge works pretty good. Will find out this summer when it gets to over 90', or maybe sooner, if it crashes again.

KENNY COCHRAN
03-03-2011, 12:18 AM
Update #393 - after one week having the dometic fridge home, it is dead again. Put in shop on tuesday...................... The story continues.

Ray LeTourneau
03-03-2011, 11:13 AM
I just read this entire thread from the first post and I must say Kenny, you are a patient man. I think at this point I would have measured the opening and shopped for a residential type fridge to fit the hole. We had some problems early on with our 10 cu. ft Dometic but since the cooling unit was replaced it's been fine. Over the last few months I have talked with several owners of the 1350 and some have had issues while others have had none. Go figure. Maybe it has to do with the location of the install, weather it's in a slide or not???
Anyway, hang in there. I really hope this saga will be closed in your favor soon.

mrcomer
03-03-2011, 02:29 PM
YIPPEEEE!!!!!!! Got my 3760 back on Monday with the brand new RM1350 Fridge. The auto door lock even works on this one. My problems are over now...MAYBE. The jury will remain out until the weather heats up again next spring. I really wish I could be more optimistic but I am just a little shell shocked. Kenny, hope you get your gaskets soon. Have fun in Hammond. Call me if you get into anything you can't get out of. I KNOW PEOPLE!!! Steve


So you have a 4-door RM1350 Dometic refer with Auto Matic door locks? Could you please take some pictures for me. Earlier versions of this model did not come that way. I for one forgot to lock my doors and when they flew open while traveling I got a nice new dent in the stainless steel door from the countertop. If these auto locks really work I may look into replacing mine. That would be awesome.

Mark

mrcomer
03-03-2011, 02:39 PM
Well I might habve my model numbers mixed up. I just went to the Dometic sight and downloaded this catalog. Apparently mine is DM1350, I will double check when I get home.

sdagro
03-03-2011, 10:59 PM
Hi Ray,
My feelings are hurt that I was not included in you comment about Kenny being patient with Dometic. With my 3rd RM1350 installed since my 2011 purchase in 4/22/10 and still not working, I have considered LEMON LAW as well as finding a residential 110V fridge that I could use with a converter while traveling. Ridiculous. Yes mine is in a slide in my 3670. Will see in a few months as the weather heats up. Some have them in slides with absolutely no trouble at all. Kenny and I both live in Louisiana where the summer heat and humidity are extreme. Will give a report from my weekend trip on the temp of fridge. Steve


I just read this entire thread from the first post and I must say Kenny, you are a patient man. I think at this point I would have measured the opening and shopped for a residential type fridge to fit the hole. We had some problems early on with our 10 cu. ft Dometic but since the cooling unit was replaced it's been fine. Over the last few months I have talked with several owners of the 1350 and some have had issues while others have had none. Go figure. Maybe it has to do with the location of the install, weather it's in a slide or not???
Anyway, hang in there. I really hope this saga will be closed in your favor soon.

Dave012
03-03-2011, 11:55 PM
Hi Ray,
My feelings are hurt that I was not included in you comment about Kenny being patient with Dometic.

I'm not sure why you'd be hurt. I suspect Ray was directing his comments to Kenny because of his recent problem and posts. You haven't posted to this thread since October so it seems reasonable for Ray to just respond to Kenny.

Safe travels to everyone.

Ray LeTourneau
03-04-2011, 12:08 AM
Well, Kenny was the original poster so I guess that's the reason I directed my post to him. I am sorry http://mail.yimg.com/a/i/mesg/tsmileys2/17.gif though Steve for not including you in my post. I must say you both have been pretty informative when relaying each of your trials and results in the thread. I really wish Dometic and or the techs would figure out some way to resolve the problems folks are having with this model. Best of luck to you both. By the way, were you able to find any residential units with dimensions that would be usable?

KENNY COCHRAN
03-07-2011, 11:08 PM
Hang in there steve, we both know you have had more problems with your fridge than me. i'm still on my original unit. even though it has not worked much since last november of 2010!!!!!!!!!

KENNY

aatauses
03-08-2011, 10:32 PM
Another suggestion that may help. When we were in Prosser, WA last summer I purchased a small solar fan. I mounted the fan near the heat coil of the refer and put the cord out the vent and the solar collector just sitting on top of the slide--it helped us quite a bit to keep the refer cold.
al

KENNY COCHRAN
03-08-2011, 10:44 PM
Our fridge came with 2 - 4" computer fans on the back to keep them cool. Dometic had us add 2 - 8" fans and removed the 4" fans. It did help, for a while. Since november, they can't keep the fridge on, or, they are waiting on parts.
Steve dagro has had 3 brand new units installed on his big horn. They all 3 worked fine sitting in the rv shop floor. However, when they were installed in the rv, they don't work worth a flip. Now what?

sdagro
03-15-2011, 05:29 AM
Just trying to put a little humor in to the situation to reduce the steam building up in me. Steve


I'm not sure why you'd be hurt. I suspect Ray was directing his comments to Kenny because of his recent problem and posts. You haven't posted to this thread since October so it seems reasonable for Ray to just respond to Kenny.

Safe travels to everyone.

KENNY COCHRAN
03-15-2011, 11:58 PM
Just got my bighorn out of the rv shop, again. The fridge is now working like it should. The computer board (where you program it) had a part that was not soldered or either it was a broken solder joint. Rv tech finally found it and soldered it and it is now showing 32' when set at #5, the coldest setting. Hopefully it will now work for a while. Has been in and out of shop since november, this time.

Bob&Patty
03-16-2011, 10:37 AM
Kenny, thats good news...but why didn't they just replace the board if it bad a bad solder joint. The boards must be made in China or India.

KENNY COCHRAN
03-21-2011, 09:32 PM
1. They did change the board a while back. Worked about a weekend and was out again. 2. Next we waited weeks and weeks to get the wiring harness in from dometic. They then changed it. 3. It worked for about another week or so. 4. Brought back to dealer, told me they found a plug in on the board that had a crack in the solder joint,(i'm getting 2nd had info from the dealer and did not get to talk to the mechanic that fixed the fridge, could have been anything close to the board that was cracked) fixed that and has worked for a week or so. Will use rv soon and see if the trip down the Louisiana roads can shake it loose again!!

KENNY COCHRAN
06-12-2011, 06:06 PM
Guess what? My dometic rm1350 is not working, again, again, again, again........................................
Has anybody replaced theirs with a regular home type unit? If so, what make and model do i need to look for?

Ray LeTourneau
06-12-2011, 08:51 PM
Guess what? My dometic rm1350 is not working, again, again, again, again........................................
Has anybody replaced theirs with a regular home type unit? If so, what make and model do i need to look for?
Oh man, that really bites. IF you are set on going with a residential type reefer, measure the rough opening of the enclosure width, height and front to back depth. Easiest thing is to go on line and shop. I'd start with a 12 or 14 cu.ft. frost free and see how they measure up. The biggest obstacle may be the depth but if it can "protrude into the coach a bit, you should be able to find something. Good Luck Kenny!

Invizatu
06-12-2011, 09:00 PM
Kenny... If you go with a residential type unit, won't you lose the LP option? How about a different brand. Our North Trail came with a NORCOLD unit and it has worked fine ( I hope I didn't just jinx myself!)

KENNY COCHRAN
06-12-2011, 09:26 PM
Yes i would lose the lp option, but i lost that 2 years ago when i bought the bighorn with the "works only above the mason dixon line" dometic rm1350. So, that part really won't bother me. We don't travel more than 4-5 hours away from home 90% of the time. I have a generator for the long trips. So frustrated with the dometic rm1350................... Can't write it on a public forum!

lwmcguir
06-12-2011, 09:55 PM
We are going to go with a counter top depth 120V when the 1350 bites the dust. No way are we going to pay that much for the dual fuel. I agree with Kenny.

boatto5er
06-13-2011, 08:00 AM
Our RM1350 is problematic also. Left on a short 90 minute trip last Friday at 1:30pm. Set reefer to run on propane. At 3:30 the freezer compartment was at 30degrees. Reefer compartment was at 60. We were in a very shady site, but outside temp was in the 90's. At 6:00pm reefer temp was 55. Finally around 11:30 pm reefer was down to 40 and we were able to move cold stuff from ice chests we had brought into the refrigerator. Had to restart a couple of times over the weekend when the temp started rising. Just can't get any consistency from it. Sometimes it'll get cold in a hurry, sometimes it takes forever. Will continue to play with it for awhile, then maybe replace with a counter depth home model also, unless dometic decides to step up to the plate and admit this is a bad design.

KENNY COCHRAN
06-13-2011, 04:37 PM
unless dometic decides to step up to the plate and admit this is a bad design.

DON'T HOLD YOUR BREATH. ME AND OTHERS HAVE BEEN FIGHTING IT FOR 2 YEARS. YOU WILL GET TIRED OF PLAYING WITH IT.

sdagro
06-26-2011, 09:17 PM
Man Kenny!!!! You sound like I did a few months ago. Maybe I need to take a pic of how they modified my baffle and send it to you. Mine may go out tomorrow but this weekend at Cajun Palms it worked fine....even after the door came open on the way over and the temp was at 45 degrees. By that evening it was back down to 33. Is at 35 right now.

57chevyconvt
06-26-2011, 09:30 PM
Steve,
Can you please upload picture(s) of the modified baffle arrangement for our viewing. I have the troublesome unit and would like to make the baffle mods to see if that will help. Anything in the way of improvements will be a help.

cookie
06-26-2011, 10:37 PM
I don't know how Steve did his baffle, but here are a couple pics of how I did mine. This I did when the trailer was two days old and have not had a problem cooling. Maybe I just got lucky, but I knew there were problems with the RM1350.
It is important to get some air moving across the top cooling fins. With the refer in the slide this is not possible without the baffle.

Peace
Dave

KENNY COCHRAN
06-26-2011, 11:04 PM
the baffle i had done (from dometic info) was to block the bottom 3/4 of the top exhaust or top grill. fans were moved from the bottom of the unit to the top and were increased in size. they work when the outside temps are below 80 or so, but don't work all the time when the temp climbs above 90.

sdagro
06-27-2011, 11:16 PM
I will try to take pics tomorrow and see what I can do.

KENNY COCHRAN
07-05-2011, 10:25 PM
I looking at changing my worthless dometic unit out to a 120 volt home type unit. Anybody have any experience doing this? Question i have is, will the home fridge hold up to bouncing down louisiana roads? Any other suggestions? Anybody want a 2 year old dometic unit that don't work in my rv? Would be ideal for a camp or anybody that works for dometic!

Ray LeTourneau
07-05-2011, 11:23 PM
I looking at changing my worthless dometic unit out to a 120 volt home type unit. Anybody have any experience doing this? Question i have is, will the home fridge hold up to bouncing down louisiana roads? Any other suggestions? Anybody want a 2 year old dometic unit that don't work in my rv? Would be ideal for a camp or anybody that works for dometic!
Kenny, we've had a freezer for 4 years now. Sadly it died this spring. For the first 3 years it was in the closet up front where the washer dryer would be. We moved it to the rear of the coach for convenience last year. I think the bouncing at the rear may have shortened it's life. It starts up but overheats quickly and pops the surge protector.
I think a fridge riding over the axles may not get the bouncing that the rear of the coach does. I guess the logical thing to do would be for you to check into the warranty before purchase and see if there are any restrictions? Fine print???

KENNY COCHRAN
07-06-2011, 12:49 AM
Thanks for the update. Makes sense. I just talked to a friend who has a 120 volt unit in his motorhome, which i think is more common. He has 10,000+ miles on it and it works great.warranty, i think it will be fine in the 5th wheel rv, if it ever breaks, i guess i could take it out and bring it in for work?

wdk450
07-06-2011, 01:07 AM
Gang:
I can't hope to address all the variety of problems you have had with the RV refrigerators. With the electronics all working correctly, and the refrig installation designed and implimented correctly, the ammonia adsorbsion refrig should cool correctly. They have been in in use in RV's for over 50 years, and have done their job. The ammonia adsorbsion process is the original form of refrigeration used in large scale ice plants, skating rinks, and air conditioned movie theatres since the 1920's.
That being said, I think that there are problems with the refrig install in slides. I got up on a ladder and inspected the top vent area on mine and found dead air space above the unit (needs top insulation and the top area sealed off). The top vent had 2 of the vent louvers BELOW the top fins (freezer?) on the refrig allowing draft air to bypass going past the fins. Then the top louver cutout was only slightly above the top refrig fins. This is contrary to the "almost good venting" for side vented (slide mounted) refrigerators in the RV Mobile .com RV refrigerator comprehensive website page on "Venting". See: http://www.rvmobile.com/tech/Trouble/vent.htm . I plan to work on this.
Too bad (in a way) you are stuck in the warranty process and cannot use 3rd party parts. Dinosaur Electronics got into the RV refrig and furnace circuit board business after making mainframe computer boards and circuits for NASA Ames research center. You can read about their products here:
http://www.dinosaurelectronics.com/Company_Info.htm They have a reputation of really knowing their stuff and building better circuit boards than the OEM ones.
As to the hard-to-get door seals, I would give one of these companies a try. The first one says that they stock hard-to-get RV refrig parts, but don't show door gaskets on their website. I think that just might be an oversight. It would be worth a phone call to them. Here is the link: http://www.gasrefrigeration.net/ You also might try these guys on the gasket issue: http://www.rvmobile.com/ Again, the gasgets are not listed on their website, but both of these companies do refurbishing of old units, so they must install a lot of gaskets themselves.
Good luck. All of these companies offer a fair amount of technical help over the phone.

Tankie
07-06-2011, 04:30 AM
Kenny,

We replaced our RM1350 with a home fridge in 2009. We got it at Home Depot, 13.6 cu. ft. We have about 8500 miles since the install and have had no issues. We went through the samething with the Rm 1350 would not stay below 50. We love it, no more warm milk! We will never have another rv unit. Don't miss not having the propane option which we nevered used anyway. We only had our ice cream get soft one time after 10 hrs on the road.
Here are a few pics. If you do a search on rv net you will find a whole lot of good info. Hope this helps. Lonnie

1382613825

jbeletti
07-06-2011, 07:10 AM
Great job on the home-style refer Lonnie.

Have you considered a small inverter and a battery dedicated only to the refer? When Teton was in business, I believe they offered a home refer option and that's how they supplied them, with their own small inverter and dedicated battery.

Thanks for sharing an alternative.

Jim

jmgratz
07-06-2011, 07:34 AM
The only down side would be the home style has a compressor and in some instances the bouncing might affect the compressor's freon. Although it shouldn't really be a great issue. The biggest issue would be the weight. The compressor adds alot of weght.

KENNY COCHRAN
07-06-2011, 01:25 PM
Yep, that helps a whole lot. I like the install and hope i can get it looking half that good. Wife had some issues with the home fridge going into the rv, but i think we have solved that with your email and a friend has one in his motor home with 10,000+ miles on it.

Tankie
07-06-2011, 08:01 PM
I only paid $350 for the fridge so if it does go out it is way less than the rv unit. It actually weighs less than the RM 1350 so weight is not an issue, I took off the doors and was able to lift it up and place it in the hole. Getting the old unit out was another story.
We never dry camp so don't miss the propane at all. I also sprayed insualation over the vents to stop insects and light from coming in because you can not completely seal the sides and top.
I just took one of the dinette chair tie straps to keep it closed while on the road. Also had to renforce under fridge with 3/4 in plywood because RM 1350 has a solid bottom and the wafer board was a little flimsy.
I mounted it through the bottom. see pic

13831

mikeandconnie
07-06-2011, 09:00 PM
I only paid $350 for the fridge so if it does go out it is way less than the rv unit. It actually weighs less than the RM 1350 so weight is not an issue, I took off the doors and was able to lift it up and place it in the hole. Getting the old unit out was another story.
We never dry camp so don't miss the propane at all. I also sprayed insualation over the vents to stop insects and light from coming in because you can not completely seal the sides and top.
I just took one of the dinette chair tie straps to keep it closed while on the road. Also had to renforce under fridge with 3/4 in plywood because RM 1350 has a solid bottom and the wafer board was a little flimsy.
I mounted it through the bottom. see pic

13831 Good job Tankie!

Tankie
07-06-2011, 10:24 PM
Jim,

I have considered a small inverter system, but so far I have not had a problem with fridge getting warm while we are on the road.
As of now we always stay in parks while we travel, but that still remains to be a good option.

Lonnie

KENNY COCHRAN
07-06-2011, 10:33 PM
Thanks for the pictures. I did check out some of the other rv forums and yes, they have lots of other people replacing the dometic/norcold units. I'm reading you closed off the 2 outside vents, is this correct? Wouldn't you want to leave this open for the hot air from the fridge to vent out these openings?

jmgratz
07-07-2011, 06:15 AM
I agree the refrigerator (even a home unit) will need to be ventilated so the hot air can escape. One thing that causes home units to not cool properly is overheating due to clogged up fins (under the unit) being clogged by pet hair and dust. Closing up the vents will affect the function of the fridge. (IMHO)

Tankie
07-07-2011, 07:43 AM
Yes I closed up the vents, but they can still be removed for access. The fridge is not sealed in like the RM 1350. There is air space all around the fridge for air movement. The top vent is not very effective because it is not at the top of the cabinet resulting in hot air being trapped above your unit, which is why I think the RM1350 is having so many problems.

The back of the fridge is completely sealed with sheet metal except at the very bottom were the compressor is which has cardboard. I can remove the cardboard and clean that area as you would in your home.



As far as the compressor being affect by the bouncing of the road. We have had a 4.2 cu. ft fridge at the end of our kitchen counter since we bought the BH (well over 16,000 miles). Plus it is not even bolted down, no problems with it.

Hope this helps Lonnie

KENNY COCHRAN
07-07-2011, 01:52 PM
The top vent is not very effective because it is not at the top of the cabinet resulting in hot air being trapped above your unit, which is why I think the RM1350 is having so many problems.

ONE OF THE THINGS DOMETIC OR SOMEBODY SUGGESTED WAS TO FILL THE TOP OF THE UNIT WITH INSULATION TO GET RID OF THAT OPEN AIR SPACE. I DID THAT, I GUESS IT HELPED SOME.

Tankie
07-07-2011, 02:11 PM
Kenny,

I tried that as well. Put a piece of sheet metal to help with the air flow as well as putting a 7 in. fan to move air. It helped a little but still did not solve the warming issue. When we were in Moses Lake, WA in winter it worked great. As soon as it started to get warm it would not cool down. I think the fridge is to busy absorbing the heat within the cabinet that it can not absorb the heat inside itself. JMO. Good luck Lonnie

GandDCapen
07-12-2011, 09:30 PM
We have a new Landmark Rushmore and the RM1350 is not cooling. I called Dometic and they weren't any help - told me to have a service tech check the thermostat!! We are currently putting 20 lb bags of ice in the frig portion to keep food from spoiling - right now the temp registers 51 degrees which is way above the safe level (which according to dometic the normal operating temp for the frig is 38 to 45 degrees). We also have a 20 lb bag of ice in the freezer to help there as well. How do you get dometic to respond to all these issues?????

jayc
07-12-2011, 09:59 PM
GandDCapen, have you contacted your dealer or Heartland Customer service?

GandDCapen
07-23-2011, 09:37 AM
Not yet Jay - it has just been too blasted hot to get up and look at some of the things others were saying regarding this Frig issue with the 1350 Dometic. I will give them a call since our trip to New England has been delayed. Thank you for your comment

jayc
07-23-2011, 04:08 PM
Good luck with it. I know how frustrating a bad fridge can be. A couple of years ago the circuit board went out on ours but Heartland CS came through for us and it hasn't re-occurred.

KENNY COCHRAN
07-27-2011, 06:24 PM
Update on my dometic rm1350 unit. Last month or so it has been working again with no outages. I guess it got scared it was about to be replaced and started working again........ The saga continues.

jayc
07-27-2011, 08:03 PM
Kenny, I'm glad to hear you finally got it working. Crossing my fingers that it keeps on working for you.

KENNY COCHRAN
07-28-2011, 12:28 AM
I can't figure it out. Up one day, down the next, then it works fine then off/on, must be a female fridge? Good thing is we have not used it for a while, but football starts up soon and it will be tested. Does seem like we are getting more rm1350 on here having trouble. Glad to also see dometic has finally come out with some support of some kind.

wntrgrn1
07-29-2011, 09:42 AM
Has Dometic come up a fix for the rm1350?

KENNY COCHRAN
08-02-2011, 10:48 PM
Somewhere on here, they have a part number for something to "fix" whatever is wrong with the rm1350. Whether or not it will fix anything, it is a start. They finally admit they have a problem, and i think that is the first step in the process.

CCCI
08-07-2011, 10:57 AM
We purchased a brand new BigHorn 3585RL in January 2011 with the fridge in a slide-out.
Cooling unit replaced in April.
We are currently awaiting the delivery and installation of our 3rd replacement complete RM1350 fridge.

KENNY COCHRAN
08-11-2011, 07:51 AM
Welcome to the cwf club, "campers without fridges." how long is dometic going to take before they figure out replacing a piece of junk with another piece of junk, with another piece of junk, with another piece of junk, ain't going to work?

wdk450
08-11-2011, 09:36 AM
I still don't consider myself an "expert" on the ammonia adsorbsion refrigerator, but I am wondering if the poor venting slide install is causing the cooling units to fail. I know that uneven levelling can cause a protective chemical in the mix inside the cooling unit can be transformed into a steel-like plug, by running the unit out of level and this compound getting too hot in the boiler or other sections of the cooling unit. Maybe this is happening with poor air venting in hot ambient temperatures, too.
I am on the road, my refig is currently working well, so I don't want to spend the time to call rv refrig specialsists and ask this question. Here are some phone numbers for these specialists for anyone who wants to call them:
RV Mobile (425) 355-1170 Washington State (Business is listed for sale on their webpage)
RV Cool.com 800-515-652
RV Refrigerator Repair 1 888-483-7586
Affordable RV Refrig Repair 888-314-5679
RViceBox.com 888-560-2653

Good Luck!!!





We purchased a brand new BigHorn 3585RL in January 2011 with the fridge in a slide-out.
Cooling unit replaced in April.
We are currently awaiting the delivery and installation of our 3rd replacement complete RM1350 fridge.

1oldcarguy
08-27-2011, 10:35 PM
Hello folks,,I was reading about your misfortunes,and decided to join and give my two cents worth
I am a independent Mobile RV tech,,this is what I have been doing to correct baffle problems,(this is not strictly a heartland problem)
1. refrigerators in a galley slide out have venting issues,,almost all of them
2.removing the refrigerator and constructing the correct baffles is the first step to correct the problem
3. Adding additional cooling fans seems to correct the problem
the last two RM1350's I have done ,I have added two additional fans mounted at the top of the upper vent,blowing out
I remove the 3 amp fuse for the fans and replace it with a 5 amp,,the extra fans are wired in parallel to the the existing fans
What my customers report is this,,,Normally ,before modifying the baffles ,and fans,,,,when ambient temps get high in the afternoon,the cooling fans will come on and run all day until evening. After baffles and fans,the fans come on and run for no more than 10 minutes at a time,refrigerator temps stay constant,and with 4 fans (the two factory and two additional)the fan noise seems quieter
Hope this helps,,I do have pictures,but as a new user,I am unable to post pictures
Rich M

jimtoo
08-27-2011, 11:29 PM
Hi Rich,

Welcome to the Heartland Owners Forum and Family. We have a great bunch of people here with lots of information and all willing to share their knowledge if needed.

Thank you for your help with the fridge problems. It seems to be an ongoing thing and I can see that would not be just a Heartland problem. Stick around,, we can always use professional help.

Thanks again, enjoy the forum.

Jim M

wolfrat1
08-28-2011, 12:31 AM
Good early morning. It's 1:00am and I'm up swearing at my Dometic rm13500mimx. When i bought my bighorn last week, the orginal refrig didn't work during the dealer prep. My dealer (God bless him), went to Heartland and got me another refrig and had it installed before delivery. The trailer was delivered to me. cranked up the fridge and found it not to work. Freezer gets kind of cool and bottom not cold at all. Service tech said Dometic is having problems with its refrigerators. Two within one week? I would say that's a problem. Hey Heartland ?? With enough of these posts and forums are floating around. How about picking a different refrigerator so we can enjoy our rv's? A service tech came out and said it may be the seals in the door. Some how I really doubt that will be the problem. My previous rv was a trail cruiser. Dometic had a recall for the fridge in that one as well. My dealer actually went back to the factory to get a different refridge. That's above and beyond what he had to do. To have these crap out is totally uncalled for.

KENNY COCHRAN
09-13-2011, 12:59 AM
I feel your pain. Welcome to the club. There are several solutions, a new dometic is not the solution, nor is a norcold. Add 2 6"computer fans and run them 24 hours a day, get the baffles added until you get them right. Turn your unit off, then back on at 6pm to get it set to cycle on/off at the right time of day. If you get a power failure, reset the fridge at 6pm again and forever. Add insulation on top of the fridge if none is there. Good luck.

CCCI
09-16-2011, 04:21 PM
Now going to Elkhart, IN in early October to potentially have our 5th RM1350 installed with Heartland and Dometic auditing the install !!
Wish us luck (or something).



We purchased a brand new BigHorn 3585RL in January 2011 with the fridge in a slide-out.
Cooling unit replaced in April.
We are currently awaiting the delivery and installation of our 3rd replacement complete RM1350 fridge.

TomMar
09-16-2011, 10:35 PM
The fridge in our 2009 BH 3600RE (last rig) was pretty poor too and when I started to add new fans for the baffels I found the original fans were wired to a thermostat on the baffels and they NEVER came on. I rewired them to a switch inside the cabinet next to the fridge and the DW would switch them onwhen we turned the fridge on. There was peace in the house and life was good. The fans in our Key Largo seem to be on a thermostat that has a lower temp requirement and they work well. Just my 2cents

wolfrat1
09-18-2011, 09:39 PM
Well my brand new Bighorn 3610re that I bought in August of this year is back at my dealer in September of this year because a third Dometic refrig(rm1350mimx) is being installed. This effectively killed my rv plans for the the year. It just seems there is nothing we rv owner can do to get any satisfaction from Dometic. I don't know what other companies make rv refrigerators, but think Heartland should seriously look into replacing Dometic. With the number of the complaints on this site and quite sure other makes of RV's are having the same problems if they are using Dometic. This is past being rediculous. Three units in two months. CCCI is having their fifth one installed. I'm burnt out.

sgtbigb
09-20-2011, 06:42 PM
Wow, I wish I could add something positive for the RM 1350. But this our forth outing in our Landmark and our frig refuses to work on automatic , we have to keep it on propane to keep temp under 45 degress. Anther problem has pop up, the auto slide lock quit working. I glad that I am not a full timer with this unit because it would be gone.

jbeletti
09-20-2011, 10:23 PM
...Heartland should seriously look into replacing Dometic...

I believe this is being seriously looked into on the larger refers.

Jim

mikeandconnie
09-20-2011, 11:22 PM
Hi Jim, this is the hold up on Connie and I ordering a new Landmark. Two years traveling with our 2009 Landmark and the RM 1350 is the only problems we had. The mother board and cooling unit was replaced under warrenty, so we are happy here, However, our frig works great on the California Coast, But down south it gets hot durning the day. Dometic told me last week this was a Heartland Problem not theres. On a positive note, the ice maker works wonderful and we are happy with it. So we are waiting to here the outcome. Mike

jbeletti
09-21-2011, 07:32 AM
Mike and Connie,

I'm not in a position to announce anything. I'd like you to call Heartland next week. Call 574-262-5992 and ask for Landmark sales. Everyone is out this week for the Dealer Open House in Elkhart.

Happy to hear yours is holding pretty well now. I'd be curious, if you know, specifically what Dometic feels Heartland is doing wrong. We only install them and we do have Dometic periodically audit that process and have them be part of the design process of the location and method of the installations, including vent and baffle locations.

Jim

KENNY COCHRAN
09-21-2011, 11:45 PM
Now going to Elkhart, IN in early October to potentially have our 5th RM1350 installed with Heartland and Dometic auditing the install !!
Wish us luck (or something).

REPLACING IT WITH THE SAME UNIT IS NOT THE SOLUTION. THIS IS THE ONLY SOLUTION I KNOW THAT WILL WORK, MOST OF THE TIME. I feel your pain. Welcome to the club. There are several solutions, a new dometic is not the solution, nor is a norcold. Add 2 6"computer fans and run them 24 hours a day, get the baffles added until you get them right. Turn your unit off, then back on at 6pm to get it set to cycle on/off at the right time of day. If you get a power failure, reset the fridge at 6pm again and forever. Add insulation on top of the fridge if none is there. Good luck.

wolfrat1
09-28-2011, 12:23 PM
i'm sorry, but we as consumers have dished out good, hard earned money for our rv's. we should not have to add fans and baffles to make brand new refrigerators work properly. either heartland or dometic needs to make this right. enough is enough. this tennis match between heartland and dometic needs to stop. because we are the losers. buying extra coolers, adding addtional electronic fixes is just plain rediculous. we aren't going to be rembursed for any out of pocket expenses. does anyone have any suggestions that we as a collective group can do to put this to a stop. this seems to be/no this is an ongoing problem that not going to stop until we do something. i went to a rv show in my town looking accessories for my rv. i told some of the people about the problems i had with dometic units. some of the salespersons got upset and i really didn't care. most people thanked me/some thought i was strange,but that was okay as well. some sales people tried to down play it. but i gave out this website. this may not be the right way, but something has to be done.

KENNY COCHRAN
09-29-2011, 12:48 AM
I agree with you as we are the ones getting the shaft. I've seen several people on here getting brand new units from dometic, again and again. Putting the same unit back in the same hole does not solve the problem. Why bother ? I would just as soon pay under $30 for 2 larger fans, and be done with that. Add a few bucks for a baffle, and you won't have to return to your dealer and go through the many trips back and forth looking for a fix.

CCCI
10-05-2011, 06:14 PM
OK, so fridge # 5 was installed on Tuesday Oct 4.The install was at RV Capital here in Elkhart.Reps from Heartland and Dometic audited the install.When we pulled the rig in, the first thing that was noticed was the complete lack of baffling in the upper vent.The Dometic reps said that the lack of baffles was a major consideration.We got the rig back and returned to the Elkhart Campgroung.The temperature this morning (Wednesday) was 34oF with the outside temp 48oF.This afternoon, the outside temperature was 80oF with the fridge holding at 37oF.Could this be the final fix ???We'll keep you posted once we reach south Texas for the winter

1oldcarguy
10-05-2011, 08:05 PM
where in south Texas?
I am a Mobile RV tech in the Mission Texas area for the winter,
If you still have problems this winter,I would like to know what has been done,
Rich
( I won't publish the company name or phone number,as that's not what this board is for,,,but if your in the Mission area and tell me what park your in,I could find you.I only service 8-9 parks,but I know most of the work campers and managers in the parks I go to)

KENNY COCHRAN
10-05-2011, 09:38 PM
Did they add baffles or larger fans? If not, you have got another lemon in your rig. Pounding another square peg in a round hole will not fix the problem. Baffles to move the air by the tubing in the back of the fridge and getting larger fans on the top of the fridge to move the air will solve your fridge problem. The texas heat will make it show up. This winter it will work find as the ambient temp will be low to keep it cooling..........................

larryanddonnakeever
10-05-2011, 10:24 PM
After reading through these threads with all the fixes, I haven't seen anything about the doors. When I first got my 3585 RL . The second trip I was having problems with the Refrigerator staying cool the freezer was cold enough to make ice.. Took the rig to dealer in Tulsa. The two bottom doors were not shutting good. The left door was lower than the right. The tech had to pull the unit out about half way then adjusted the doors.. Working much better.. I have to make sure doors close solid after being opened.. When the temp outside was in the 100's this summer in Oklahoma I did put a fan inside the unit.. Hope this helps some.. I run mine on electric when camping, and gas when traveling. Maintains around 33 tom 35 most of the time.. Unless the grandkids are around...
Larry and Donna Keever
Oklahoma City, Ok
2011 BigHorn 3585 RL
2010 Ford F350 FX4 Lariet 6.4 Diesel Dually

Getting ready to leave tomorrow morning 10/06/11. For the Heartland rally in Canton Tx. Our first, but not last... There will be 3 rigs from Oklahoma City, going down together, everyones first Heartland 5er and rally.. Looking forward to making some new friends....

KENNY COCHRAN
10-06-2011, 10:12 PM
you are right about the doors, it they are not sealing good, air will be escaping. Have fun in canton, it is a fun place when the flea market is going on. there is a dairy barn 1 block off i-20 on your right. you have to eat there, burgers, and food are great. also a dry county so bring your own booze for medicinal purposes if you feel a cold coming on. also a good mexican rest. downtown on the corner.

radman1420
10-14-2011, 01:40 AM
Wow I wish I would have seen this thread before I left my dealer. My new 2012 Big Country 3650 Gold Edition is having the same fridge issues. It wont cool below 47 and its not even 80 degrees outside. Freezer is fine but cooling fins inside fridge just drip water. This is bad new when your fulltiming! Heartland will be hearing from me in the morning!

wolfrat1
10-16-2011, 10:13 PM
i have my rig at rv capital as well for refrig #3. i hope heartland and dometic oversaw my frig being installed as well. one would think that between the two companies, one would stay in contact with the rv owners to let them know what is going on. i'm sorry if i sound bitter, but i am. with all these complaints, someone should truely be doing something constructive for the customers as opposed to saying nothing..

KENNY COCHRAN
10-18-2011, 12:51 AM
I feel your pain. Fridge #3 is the same as #1 & #2 and will perform the same way. Dometic has not changed a thing that i can find. You will have to insist somebody install 2 larger (6") computer fans and also the baffles to direct the air past the coils on the back of the fridge. Run the fans 24 hours a day or at least during the summer months in your climate. Good luck and report back in a few months.

wdk450
10-18-2011, 08:59 PM
TO ALL THE PEOPLE FIGHTING THIS WITH HEARTLAND/DOMETIC:
Please read 1OLDCARGUY's post of 8/27. Then take a look at my attached poor drawing of the system and my fabricated baffle. PRINT these and take them to the repair "experts". "CARGUY and I GOT OUR SYSTEMS TO WORK CORRECTLY WITH THESE MODS. If Heartland/Dometic won't do what we did, maybe you should just do it yourself and get it right, without warranty reembursement. It's not very expensive, or very hard. I used a ladder and didn't even have to remove my refrig. - $24 for a roll of fiberglass insulation (you will use very little of the roll), and about $15 for gutter flashing for the baffle with metal tape to keep it in place.
I believe you CAN make these work right in a slide.
Attached is my baffle drawing.1645216452

cookie
10-18-2011, 09:14 PM
That is exactly what I did on day one. I have never had a problem cooling to 34* set on #4 .

Peace
Dave

KENNY COCHRAN
10-18-2011, 09:19 PM
Don't make it easy for them. Let dometic put in 4-5 fridges in each rv on the market. They are the ones who are s l o w learners.

wolfrat1
10-20-2011, 08:34 AM
again i ask, why is it imcumbent on the rv owners to fix something that is not our problem. we bought our rv's in good faith. why in the **** should we have to fix an obvious factory problem? maybe they already have some pre planned excuse. i just refuse to pay for something that is not my fault. heartland and dometic must read these forums. it would make sense that if heartland wants to keep its sales, they would be at the forefront of correcting this. dometic units are crap. i've had two other trailers that the dometic units had to be replaced under warranty. i'm beginning to think these companies plan on us fixing the problem so they don't have to. with my less than four month old 5th already being in indiana, i should take to heatland and said fix the problem. this is not on my dealer to do, but many of us will get mad at them anyway. they shouldn't get the heat of our frustration for being the middle man. but right now the rv owner have no choice. the crappy responses i've received from dometic is no less than pathetic (sorry you're having problems but we have a good warranty program). who wants to hear that. this was done in an email. none of my phone calls have been responded to. as long as we sit back and do nothing, i think both companies will do the same.

danemayer
10-20-2011, 11:34 AM
Cleaned up Bill Knight's sketch.

wdk450
10-20-2011, 09:03 PM
Dan and All:
Thanks for improving my crude drawing. One point, though - The lip of the baffle extends and sits on/overlaps the condenser by just enough to support it - 1/4 inch of the baffle lip. This shuts off bypass airflow around the condenser fins, and gets the vent air out of the upper vent properly.

KENNY COCHRAN
10-21-2011, 12:27 AM
It is kind of funny when you call dometic and they act like it is the first time they have ever heard of "our" problem. Maybe they hire a kid for a week at a time, i don't know. Mine has been in the shop several times at 2 different dealers. They both really worked on the problem and between both of them, they got mine fixed without getting a new unit in.(which i didn't want to do, i guess i'm hard headed) mine has been working now for a while and did make it through this hot heat in south louisiana so i think it is fixed. So, stay on your local dealer and have him deal with heartland, there is light at the end of the tunnel, may be a train, but hopefully you will see the light and cold soon.

danemayer
10-21-2011, 06:17 AM
Dan and All:
Thanks for improving my crude drawing. One point, though - The lip of the baffle extends and sits on/overlaps the condenser by just enough to support it - 1/4 inch of the baffle lip. This shuts off bypass airflow around the condenser fins, and gets the vent air out of the upper vent properly.
Updated the drawing. And updated again, changing insulation placement.

1oldcarguy
10-23-2011, 09:16 PM
Hey Folks
Again,this is not a issue with Heartland or Dometic.The issue is air flow over the back of the refrigerator.This issue showed up when the RV makers started putting refrigerator's in slide outs.It make nicer floor plans that we all want.Keep in mind that a RV refrigerator does not cool,,,,,it absorbs heat from the food compartments,and if it is unable to get rid of the heat from the back side,it will not work correctly.
So,,ventilation is the answer
I have replaced many cooling units,in many different RV makes,,both Dometic and Norcold,and if I replace one that is installed in a slide out,I ALWAYS make sure it has vent control and air flow as good as I am able to make it.When I talk to the customer a week or two later ,most of them tell me it works better than it ever did.

Rich

57chevyconvt
10-23-2011, 09:30 PM
Again, if it the RV was designed correctly based on Dometic's installation requirements, should not the refrigerator installed in a slide work properly from the very 'get-go'? My RM1350 IM is not in a slide and modifications to the installation were required to obtain maximum performance.

1oldcarguy
10-24-2011, 07:32 AM
Jim
I think all refrigerators should work correctly from new,however some of the installations I have seen,from many different makers ,have raised alot of eyebrows.
Walk around a campground or a dealer,and look at how high the unit is installed in slide out and then try to figure out how that "chimney" is going to flow air and you will see what service people are up against
Ultimately, I guess it's up to the maker of the refrigerator to design one that will work in a galley slide out,so the cooling unit won't run too hot.
Of course ,they could put a compressor/electric unit (like from a house) in a trailer,but that would take involve many batteries and a large inverter to dry camp and would require a generator install to keep the house batteries charged
so.this is just my opinion
Rich

57chevyconvt
10-25-2011, 10:34 PM
Rich,
Many of the large motorhomes have the residential type of refigerators because of available power via generator and they are less expensive to purchase than a Dometic RM 1350.
Until the RV manufacturer(s) and Dometic come agreement on a design/installation procedure, it will be up to the owner, dealer, and RV techs to install correct baffling and additional fan and/or wire fans to run anytime the refrig is in operation to achieve proper air flow over the condensing coil. I guess that is where folks like you come to the aid of other like me.

KENNY COCHRAN
10-26-2011, 08:20 PM
Another issue I just had to deal with on the fridge was a bad ground wire. Was having problems with fridge going to LP and not staying on elect. power. Finally checked all the ground wires at the breaker box and that was the problem. Heartland must have used an impact wrench to tighten the ground wire and also the white wire as they were so tight the set screw flattened the copper wires. Also checked the wire going to each breaker and some of them were loose too. All is working again.

jim3807
11-15-2011, 11:45 AM
This is my first post. We have been in our big horn almost a full year and I have not been happy with the rm1350 from day one. Have complained the whole time to dealer. Have it at the dealer for warrenty work about six weeks ago. The servide manager solution was to set the A/C to 75 and let the blower run on high full time and have refrig set on #5. Well that doesn't really fix the problem. Talked to him again yesterday and it just wasn't a good time for him. My rm1350 still runs 24/7 either gas or electric, which ends up expensive energy wise. Now waiting for a return call from heartland customer service. It looks like I'am going to half to find a solution and fix it myself. Jim Owens

jimtoo
11-15-2011, 01:42 PM
Hi jim3807,

Welcome to the Heartland Owners Forum and Family. We have a great bunch of people here with lots of information and all willing to share their knowledge if needed. I see you have been a member for a while and not doing any posting.

I was going to suggest that you call Heartland Customer Service and speak with someone, but you say your waiting for a return call, so I assume you have done that. Let us know what happens. Also have you talked directly to Dometic, might be good to try that also.

Jim M

cookie
11-15-2011, 02:56 PM
Jim3807, read this entire thread. One fix that may help you is to install a baffle to direct the air over the top colling coils.
You could also bypass the button thermostat that controls the fans for continuous run.
Another would be to insulate the area above the upper coil.
HERE (//heartlandowners.org/showthread.php/17903-Dometic-rm1350-need-help!/page8) is a link to a page on this thread that shows how I installed my baffle. You must direct the air movement across the upper fins.

Peace
Dave

KENNY COCHRAN
11-16-2011, 12:34 AM
The servide manager solution was to set the A/C to 75 and let the blower run on high full time and have refrig set on #5. Well that doesn't really fix the problem.

THE ABOVE MAKES NO SENSE. IT MIGHT WORK BETTER IF HE HAD TOLD YOU TO LEAVE THE FRIDGE DOORS OPEN SO THE AC COULD COOL IT DOWN. YOUR SOLUTION IS SPELLED OUT SEVERAL TIMES IN THIS LONG STRING OF TALK ON THE RM1350. DO THE FIX YOURSELF AND TELL DOMETIC YOU WILL NEVER BUY ANOTHER ONE OF THEIR PRODUCTS BY USING YOUR POCKET BOOK ON YOUR NEXT RV PURCHASE.

CCCI
11-16-2011, 10:18 AM
This is my first post. We have been in our big horn almost a full year and I have not been happy with the rm1350 from day one. Have complained the whole time to dealer. Have it at the dealer for warrenty work about six weeks ago. The servide manager solution was to set the A/C to 75 and let the blower run on high full time and have refrig set on #5. Well that doesn't really fix the problem. Talked to him again yesterday and it just wasn't a good time for him. My rm1350 still runs 24/7 either gas or electric, which ends up expensive energy wise. Now waiting for a return call from heartland customer service. It looks like I'am going to half to find a solution and fix it myself. Jim Owens

Jim
Are you in the RGV, if so, there may be 2 visitors coming to the valley very soon that may be of some use to you.
Contact me via PM.

wolfrat1
11-29-2011, 11:05 PM
maybe if we could afford to do it, start taking these rv's back to heartlands headquarters and start giving them bad press. although this may not be heartland's fault, this would make them start pressuring dometic to come to a good design solution. this would stop us from complaining in this forum. it's obvious that nothing will be accomplished here. everybody has been complaing for quite some time and this is as far as we get. heartland and dometic aren't going to do anything as long as we don't do anything. well it appears some of my posting was edited. which is really a shame for what all of us are going through. but its's okay, i'll start applying pressure somewhere else. i'm tired of just getting lip service. xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx xxxxxxxxxxxxx

jbeletti
11-30-2011, 08:32 AM
Wolfrat1,

Heartland has replaced Dometic with Norcold on the large 4-door refers on our current product. While this does not help you, it speaks to the fact that as an RV producer, we're listening and we're making changes.

Jim

wolfrat1
12-01-2011, 06:15 PM
i have my rv down the road from the factory at rvcapital for my third dometic refrig. i'll call them tomorrow and see what they replaced it with. if heartland has switched to norcold there is no sense putting a dometic back in my brand new trailer. what procedure do i need to go through to not have another dometic put back in my rv.

jbeletti
12-02-2011, 12:14 AM
i have my rv down the road from the factory at rvcapital for my third dometic refrig. i'll tomorrow and see what they replaced it with. if heartland has switched to norcold there is no sense putting a dometic back in my brand new trailer. what procedure do i need to go through to not have another dometic put back in my rv.

Sorry wolfrat, I do not know that process. You could always make the request to Heartland customer service. My guess is that it may not be an exact replacement from a fitment perspective.

Jim

Ray LeTourneau
12-02-2011, 10:15 AM
Sorry wolfrat, I do not know that process. You could always make the request to Heartland customer service. My guess is that it may not be an exact replacement from a fitment perspective.

Jim

Not only that, but the OEM is a Dometic and Dometic is the one actually warranting the product. I'm guessing they'll only replace it with the same thing.

wolfrat1
12-05-2011, 04:27 PM
screwed no matter which way you turn.

CCCI
12-06-2011, 05:57 PM
We are now waiting for our SIXTH fridge to be installed and it will be a NORCOLD 1210IM.
Heartland has agreed to install one of the new models being used on the 2012 BigHorns & Landmarks.
There will need to be a bit of trim work, but they assure us that it will all mbe matched up.
Our contact @ Heartland is David Hilliker. He is a Customer Service Rep., so needs to get authorizations from higher up, but he is very helpful & thorough.
Will keep this thread posted on activity.

KENNY COCHRAN
12-06-2011, 11:42 PM
You live in canada, can't you just open the door to the bighorn and leave the fridge door open? I don't know who is wasting more money on your unit, heartland or dometic? Did they not try any of the "fixes" listed on this long string i started a year ago?

rick_debbie_gallant
12-07-2011, 12:22 AM
two weeks ago I put a 110 volt computer fan in the back of the refer unit. runs 24/7. no more hot icebox.

boatto5er
12-07-2011, 10:56 AM
You live in canada, can't you just open the door to the bighorn and leave the fridge door open?

Kenny, for all the problems you've had with your 1350, I've got to admire your sense of humor;).

KENNY COCHRAN
12-07-2011, 11:04 PM
Well it wasn't funny for several months last year. Listening to the wife, ask why i was throwing away the food in the fridge as it was all bad. Then the next day, the dang thing would be cooling again, and we would load it up with food. Mine had several issues, cracked computer board which would go on/off every time we hit a bump in the road. Wiring harness, and finally the poor design.it is now working good for many months now.
You have to laugh at it, life is too short to get upset over every little thing. I'm in south louisiana, we are getting our 1st real freeze tonight, so my fridge is real cooooooooooooolllllllllllllllllllllllllddddddddddd dddddd!!!!!

Chris429
01-04-2012, 07:18 PM
Your problem is in the defrost cycle. When the 12 volt power is turned off or interrupted the fridge starts a new defrost cycle. It will defrost 60 hours after the cycle started. So, if power comes on at 1:00AM it will began defrosting at 1:00PM the worst time to do so. I start mine at about 11:00 AM. That way it will defrost at night around 1:00AM and without cooling down much it will recover by morning before the heat of the day. The 110 v. runs the ammonia cooling while the rest is run by the 12 v. from your battery and converter. Both have to be off to set the defrost cycle.

enolacamper
04-21-2012, 05:47 AM
To all the folks with RM1350 fridge cooling problems. It was suggested to check the flap on the left door. Confirm it is coming all the way forward when the door is shut. Oterwise the right door will not seal. Sounds to simple!! Ours was not. So whenever we get into the fridge we shut the left door and pull the flap forward. Fridge has been not been higher than 36 degrees. Taking it to the dealer next week to see if they can adjust it. :)

ChopperBill
05-07-2012, 10:50 AM
Your problem is in the defrost cycle. When the 12 volt power is turned off or interrupted the fridge starts a new defrost cycle. It will defrost 60 hours after the cycle started. So, if power comes on at 1:00AM it will began defrosting at 1:00PM the worst time to do so. I start mine at about 11:00 AM. That way it will defrost at night around 1:00AM and without cooling down much it will recover by morning before the heat of the day. The 110 v. runs the ammonia cooling while the rest is run by the 12 v. from your battery and converter. Both have to be off to set the defrost cycle.
Just started reading this thread. Going to be boon docking this summer for the first time with this trailer. Can you just manually shut the fridge down and turn it back on a 11:00 AM or do you have to disconnect the battery momentarily.

KENNY COCHRAN
05-11-2012, 11:27 PM
you can manually turn it off whenever you want to and turn it back on.

wolfrat1
05-12-2012, 07:36 AM
well i left my bighorn at my rv dealer for storage for the winter. the refrigerator wasn't working. called before i picked it up and was told that the dometic reps and techs came out and stated that it had been repaired. i pick up my rv drive it 300 miles set it up and guess what? i know this will surprise you, but the refrig doesn't work. this is by no means the fault of the dealer. i would go back to him in a heartbeat. dometic, you are another story. now the dealer is paying to have someone come to work on the iceless box again. why he has to pay for it is beyond me. i'm just hoping against hope that they will install a different make and model. at this point i'm too mad to be mad. i just want the problem fixed once and for all. i have started warning people i know who are considering buying an rv, if it has a dometic, don't buy it. i am really at a loss as to what else to do. i brought my mini refrig from my basement just so i have place to put some food. this is not the rving i had planned on doing.

danemayer
05-12-2012, 08:01 AM
Wolfrat1,

I don't know if you've read the many, many comments in this very long thread, but many people who have had problems have resolved them.

To cool properly, there are only a couple of things needed:
1. The rig has to be level. The refrigerant won't flow properly when the refrigerator is off level.
2. The cooling process begins by heating the refrigerant, so the temperature of the heating elements has to be right. Since the refrigerator has separate lp gas and electric heating units, if it cools well on one but not on the other, that would indicate a heating element problem.
3. Heat transferred out of the refrigerator and freezer compartments has to be moved to the outside. Airflow behind the unit does this, but sometimes doesn't work effectively enough.
4. The cold air in the refrigerator has to stay there and not leak out either through bad seals, poorly adjusted doors, flaps that don't move into position when the doors get closed, or by leaving the doors open for a long time while loading food or trying to decide what's for dinner.

If the refrigerator cools ok on LP but not on electric, or vice versa, you may have a problem with the heating element.

If your freezer is cold enough, but the refrigerator is not, you may be leaking air out of the refrigerator. There is a flap on the left refrigerator door. When you close the left door, it rotates into position sealing the gap between left and right doors. If this binds, the refrigerator loses cold air quickly. You can check the seals yourself with a dollar bill. Trap the bill when you close the door and pull. There should be some drag.

If the refrigerator runs a lot without successfully cooling, you may not have adequate airflow on the backside of the refrigerator. The air flows from the bottom louvers on the outside of your kitchen slide, up and out the top louvers. If it passes by the fins that exchange the heat to the outside, the heat transfer doesn't occur and the cooling is sub-optimal. Your unit is new enough that the baffling inside the louvers should take care of this, but maybe it's out of position. Also, Dometic has a ventilator kit that adds a fan to that air to increase the air flow - it's thermostatically controlled so the fan runs primarily in hot climates. Many people have added locally procured fans to increase airflow.

If you keep the doors open like we all are used to doing with home refrigerators, you'll find the temp climbs and takes a very long time to recover. The fix here is to close the doors quicker.

There can be other problems - I just recently had a problem with a loose fuse that was affecting inside lighting and fan operation.

Don't despair. They should be able to get things working well.

bdunker
05-16-2012, 11:22 AM
I have a 2009 pinehearst with a rm 1350 refer..Had it out three times..This weekend my refer on the bottom would not get below 51 degrees..the freezer worked fine.What is wrong..LP and elec.Were full and hooked up..Need Help..

Thanks,
Firewind5@aol.com
Wendell McGowan
Redding ,Ca.96002

I had the exact problem with my Big Horn, Dealer determined the problem to be the cooling unit, Dometic stalled and debated for a week, and then authorized the control unit under warranty, during replacement the tech discovered the real problem, the assembler had not used the thermal transfer gel between the cooling unit and the refrigerator fins. Repaired in March and has performed as advertised since and we are till on the road on our way home.

wolfrat1
07-07-2012, 01:30 PM
well my wife and i are fed up with this box. i can't call it a refrigerator. it has to get cold before i call it that. i like heartland and we may get another one but not if they get using dometic. i known this is extreme move over a non working refrig, but we're tired of having to throw away food and cutting our vacations short. dometic is not doing anything and i should get a good trade allowance. does anyone know if heartland is still using dometic units? if so, we may get something else.

danemayer
07-07-2012, 01:43 PM
Wolfrat, sorry to hear you're having problems. Reading between the lines in your post, I'm assuming you've had it in for service and the techs haven't been able to fix it.

By chance have you taken a look at post #166? There are a number of things that sometimes get overlooked - it may even be something you can correct yourself. If not, you may end up being able to provide enough guidance to the service tech that the problem can finally be corrected.

As to whether Heartland is still using Dometic Refrigerators, I believe you can get a new rig with a Norcold instead of the RM1350.

wolfrat1
08-09-2012, 09:48 PM
more with the ongoing saga. the refrig leaked into the bottom drawer soaking everything in the drawer. we are definitely getting rid of this trailer. along with a number of small irritating problems, this bighorn is just not worth the headache for something less than a year old. don't know if we want to try another heartland or not. i'm just tired of fighting with dometic to get this thing fixed. glad heartland switch to norcold.

danemayer
08-09-2012, 09:54 PM
the refrig leaked into the bottom drawer soaking everything in the drawer.
Did they get it cooling properly? Do you suppose maybe the tech didn't reconnect one of the water lines correctly after working on the unit?

jnbhobe
08-10-2012, 05:35 AM
Did they get it cooling properly? Do you suppose maybe the tech didn't reconnect one of the water lines correctly after working on the unit?

Or maybe the drain tube isn't coming out the bottom vent.

Ray LeTourneau
08-10-2012, 06:30 AM
I'd suggest it's the ice maker supply line. Many issues on the forum regarding those.

wdk450
08-10-2012, 09:14 AM
Just a seasonal note for everybody.
Local temps high 90's - 100's. For the first time in a long time fridge was a little too warm. After going to Gas, and max colding the thermostat, in the middle of the evening I remembered the "special weather" switches on the door frame. I labelled these "Hot Weather" and "Cold Weather". I turned the "Hot Weather" switch ON and a few hours later, things are better.

boatto5er
08-10-2012, 09:29 AM
Just a seasonal note for everybody.
Local temps high 90's - 100's. For the first time in a long time fridge was a little too warm. After going to Gas, and max colding the thermostat, in the middle of the evening I remembered the "special weather" switches on the door frame. I labelled these "Hot Weather" and "Cold Weather". I turned the "Hot Weather" switch ON and a few hours later, things are better.

????? - I've never seen nor heard of these. Picture please...

wolfrat1
08-11-2012, 08:54 PM
no they never did. i would like to think that after four trips to the dealer, the dometic techs would have at least connected the water lines correctly. we like our dealer very much, so we will see what other lines he sells. our little north trail never gave us any problems. this is very frustrating.

wdk450
08-11-2012, 11:00 PM
????? - I've never seen nor heard of these. Picture please...

I have a Norcold NDR1292 (Made in Sweden!) Here is a link to the Manual: http://bryantrv.com/docs2/docs/operating/ndr1292.pdf In reading about these switches (The Climate Control Switch and Low Ambient Switch) in the manual, If I understood it right, the Climate Control Switch draws heating current from the 12 volt battery EVEN WHEN THE REFRIGERATOR IS TURNED OFF, thus possibly draining your battery when the rig is in storage.

boatto5er
08-12-2012, 06:00 AM
I have a Norcold NDR1292 (Made in Sweden!) Here is a link to the Manual: http://bryantrv.com/docs2/docs/operating/ndr1292.pdf In reading about these switches (The Climate Control Switch and Low Ambient Switch) in the manual, If I understood it right, the Climate Control Switch draws heating current from the 12 volt battery EVEN WHEN THE REFRIGERATOR IS TURNED OFF, thus possibly draining your battery when the rig is in storage.

Thanks for clarifying Bill. I have a Dometic and they don't have that switch.

enolacamper
08-24-2012, 06:49 AM
Just an update on my RM1350. Last April when we noticed the flap was not coming forward when the left doo closed. Thus not sealing the right door. The dealer said a washer was missing on the bottom of the left door. They fixed that. Since then the doors seals and locks and all is well. Benn on all summer but for about a week. and I have had no problems. Sometimes less tech and mre common sense.

Howard
10-12-2012, 12:23 PM
Hello, I am new to this forum and I don't own a Heartland. I bought a new Mobile Suite in 2010. I have had trouble with the Dometic rm1350 refrigerator. It just stops cooling all of a sudden. The freezer is 45 degrees and the bottom is 59 degrees. I have had the cooling unit replaced, two boards, limit switch, two electric heaters and a flowmister. We are getting our 3rd cooling unit replaced sometime this week. I was reading your threads and would like some information about adding the fans and baffles. Where do you place all them at the back of the refrigerator? Any help would be greatly appreciated. We full time and this is really getting to be a big headache. Thinking about getting an electric household refrigerator if I can find one that fits. We don't boondock, so this would not be a problem to have. I know it would de-value the rig and that is the reason I am still worrying with the rm1350. Again, any help would be appreciated.

jimtoo
10-12-2012, 12:43 PM
Hi Howard,

Welcome to the Heartland Owners Forum. We have a great bunch of people here with lots of information and all willing to share their knowledge when needed.

If your fridge is in a slide, that seems to be where most are giving problems. Your in the right thread right here. So it will take a little time, but it gives lots of ideas and repairs that were made. Just start at page 1 and read.

Depending on what is behind your fridge, you may need to make changes to force the air to move over the fins. And I think there is even someone that did buy and install a household fridge listed in this thread and what they did to make it right.

Enjoy the forum. (and I think some dealers would even take your Mobile Suite on trade):D



Jim M

cookie
10-12-2012, 01:56 PM
Howard, there is plenty of reading here on this forum about the RM1350.
I changed out the fans to 5 inch fans. They can be found at computer stores for under $10.
Have you verified that the fans you have are working. They are controlled by a thermostat.
Also, use a dollar bill or other piece of paper to check the seal on the doors. That has been a problem for some.

Peace
Dave

mikeandconnie
10-12-2012, 02:03 PM
I have seen a post on residential refrigerators being installed to replaced the 1350. I will try to find the link and post it tonight. I have seen one in person and it looked good installed.

danemayer
10-12-2012, 03:28 PM
Howard, see post 169 in this thread. Also, when the cooling unit is replaced, there's a thermal transfer compound that's critical. If the tech didn't use it, it won't matter how many cooling units are replaced.

rick_debbie_gallant
10-12-2012, 04:04 PM
Good luck with the rm1350. It may make a good boat anchor for someone. Or perhaps an arrow backstop for archers. I am happy with my little bitty fridge. When I get my new unit I will be trying for two small ones rather than one big fridge.

billnsue
10-12-2012, 05:06 PM
Third cooling unit was the charm for us! (Knock on wood) This one has been in and working the best the RM1350 has worked in 2 years. Now we can't run it on #5 or it will bring the fridge down to 32 degrees. I did make sure the tech really put the transfer jell to it when he put in the last one. Not sure if that was the issue but I couldn't be happier.
hang in there, the BH is our home and other than the fridge and one ac (which was covered) all I have had to do is replace one light bulb.

bdunker
10-16-2012, 10:35 AM
A year ago I had very similar problem, the rig was three months old and in February in Florida the refer went above forty and would not go below, the freezer worker fine, after several days of talking to the technician and he to Dometic, he installed a secondary thermistor, no help, Dometic discussed this for several more days and then authorized a new cooling unit ($900), during the replacement the technician found that the factory had not used Mastic (A thermal transfer gel) during the build up of the refer. The refer now works fine to include 112 degrees and in the direct sun and maintains 34 degrees. Makes the beers taste real good.

darlinshere
12-10-2012, 10:47 PM
If so many people are having the EXACT same problem with their newer model RM1350s...why have they not expanded the recall further? I have a 2009 model that has the exact same issue and stopped working about a month after the warranty expired. A CSR for Dometic said they havent heard of any issues and basically said...too bad so sad. So I have a $3000 refrigerator in excellent condition other than the refrig...which makes the whole thing worthless.

cookie
12-11-2012, 12:22 AM
Darlinshere, welcome to the forum. Lots of good information here.
You asked about expanding the recall. I have not heard of a recall. Don't think there is one.
It seems that the most effective fix was the application of the thermal transfer paste.
You might want to do a little research on that.
Along with that you might also check into adding a baffle and check that the cooling fans are working.

Peace
Dave

yepuhuh
07-23-2013, 08:30 AM
I bought one of those 12v fans off of ebay to circulate the air. It mounts to the fins and connects to the always hot side of the fridge light. Seems to circulate the air very well. i wonder if a smaller fridge with the slide out pantry has a better chance of cooling in the Louisiana heat. Not sure what type of mod would have to be made to do that. I'd give up the space in a heartbeat if I could be "guaranteed" to have a fridge that gets and stays cold. Steve A. Dagro

I bought one of those fans as well and can't figure out how to wire into the light. Can you give me some photos of how you did that?

yepuhuh
07-24-2013, 05:47 AM
Wolfrat1,

I don't know if you've read the many, many comments in this very long thread, but many people who have had problems have resolved them.

To cool properly, there are only a couple of things needed:
1. The rig has to be level. The refrigerant won't flow properly when the refrigerator is off level.
2. The cooling process begins by heating the refrigerant, so the temperature of the heating elements has to be right. Since the refrigerator has separate lp gas and electric heating units, if it cools well on one but not on the other, that would indicate a heating element problem.
3. Heat transferred out of the refrigerator and freezer compartments has to be moved to the outside. Airflow behind the unit does this, but sometimes doesn't work effectively enough.
4. The cold air in the refrigerator has to stay there and not leak out either through bad seals, poorly adjusted doors, flaps that don't move into position when the doors get closed, or by leaving the doors open for a long time while loading food or trying to decide what's for dinner.

If the refrigerator cools ok on LP but not on electric, or vice versa, you may have a problem with the heating element.

If your freezer is cold enough, but the refrigerator is not, you may be leaking air out of the refrigerator. There is a flap on the left refrigerator door. When you close the left door, it rotates into position sealing the gap between left and right doors. If this binds, the refrigerator loses cold air quickly. You can check the seals yourself with a dollar bill. Trap the bill when you close the door and pull. There should be some drag.

If the refrigerator runs a lot without successfully cooling, you may not have adequate airflow on the backside of the refrigerator. The air flows from the bottom louvers on the outside of your kitchen slide, up and out the top louvers. If it passes by the fins that exchange the heat to the outside, the heat transfer doesn't occur and the cooling is sub-optimal. Your unit is new enough that the baffling inside the louvers should take care of this, but maybe it's out of position. Also, Dometic has a ventilator kit that adds a fan to that air to increase the air flow - it's thermostatically controlled so the fan runs primarily in hot climates. Many people have added locally procured fans to increase airflow.

If you keep the doors open like we all are used to doing with home refrigerators, you'll find the temp climbs and takes a very long time to recover. The fix here is to close the doors quicker.

There can be other problems - I just recently had a problem with a loose fuse that was affecting inside lighting and fan operation.

Don't despair. They should be able to get things working well.

Can you tell what fuse it is, my light blew and I put a new one in and it will not work, so I think the lamp blew the fuse as well. PM me if you can!

danemayer
07-24-2013, 06:47 AM
Can you tell what fuse it is, my light blew and I put a new one in and it will not work, so I think the lamp blew the fuse as well. PM me if you can! Back side of the frig has a circuit board. There are several fuses back there. I think the one involved with the lamp is a 4 or 5 amp small spade lug type on the left side of the circuit board. It also provides power to a relay that powers the backside cooling fans and water dispenser if you have one.

KENNY COCHRAN
07-07-2014, 03:45 PM
I have a dometic rm1350, (serial #646-00001) in a 2010, #3670rl bighorn rv(mfg. 3-5-2009)
the 2 outside fans on the back of the refrigerator are not working. I have 12 volts going to the top left side of the cooling fins. Looks like it plugs into a heat sensor(disk?) and there is no voltage coming out on the other side of this sensor on this wire. Does this mean this sensor is bad, or is there something else i need to be checking.
Thanks,
kenny cochran


GEE!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! IS THIS DEJA VUE OR WHAT? Seems i started this post in 2008 and now i am back with the same model in another brand and guess what! it don't work either.

DOMETIC!!!! I now have a Tiffin 36LA motorhome, 2013 model and the fridge has worked for a little over one year. now it is not cooling either. the saga continues...............................

jassson007
07-07-2014, 03:56 PM
Lol sorry Kenny. My norcold is working fine.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Kbvols
07-07-2014, 05:08 PM
You may want to look up dave1oa on this forum. Based on his post from another thread he seems to have a connection to the CEO of Tiffan

hcriddle
07-07-2014, 06:27 PM
I have a dometic rm1350, (serial #646-00001) in a 2010, #3670rl bighorn rv(mfg. 3-5-2009)
the 2 outside fans on the back of the refrigerator are not working. I have 12 volts going to the top left side of the cooling fins. Looks like it plugs into a heat sensor(disk?) and there is no voltage coming out on the other side of this sensor on this wire. Does this mean this sensor is bad, or is there something else i need to be checking.
Thanks,
kenny cochran


GEE!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! IS THIS DEJA VUE OR WHAT? Seems i started this post in 2008 and now i am back with the same model in another brand and guess what! it don't work either.

DOMETIC!!!! I now have a Tiffin 36LA motorhome, 2013 model and the fridge has worked for a little over one year. now it is not cooling either. the saga continues...............................


Kenny,

I believe that is a thermistor that you are talking about. Mine did the same thing and I just bypassed it and wired the fans straight. Here is Texas all summer the fans need to be running all the time anyway to keep it cool. So far it has worked fine. I did unplug them during the winter months.

wdk450
07-08-2014, 01:01 PM
Kenny,

I believe that is a thermistor that you are talking about. Mine did the same thing and I just bypassed it and wired the fans straight. Here is Texas all summer the fans need to be running all the time anyway to keep it cool. So far it has worked fine. I did unplug them during the winter months.

Just to be a little more precise, the temperature sensing device is a thermal SWITCH, which turns a circuit on-off depending on temperature. A thermistor has a varying resistance as temperature changes, but conducts electricity all the time. The thermal switch on the fins may not be hot enough to switch on. Carefully heating the switch with a hair dryer will give you a good idea if it is working.

danemayer
07-08-2014, 01:36 PM
Guys,

I know you're all trying to help Kenny, but what's not obvious is that he copied the failure info from the 1st post of this thread, which he made several years ago. I don't think he was saying that he's having the same problem now.

joey1
06-22-2015, 01:43 PM
Third cooling unit was the charm for us! (Knock on wood) This one has been in and working the best the RM1350 has worked in 2 years. Now we can't run it on #5 or it will bring the fridge down to 32 degrees. I did make sure the tech really put the transfer jell to it when he put in the last one. Not sure if that was the issue but I couldn't be happier.
hang in there, the BH is our home and other than the fridge and one ac (which was covered) all I have had to do is replace one light bulb.


We we have had two cooling units and ready for third really would like regular ref and take this one out. But have warranty what is transfer jell