Water pump not working properly

ScubaSteve

Full Timer
Being new to RVing, we were disappointed with the flow from the water pump but we chalked it up to crappy parts and "I guess that's just how it is". After reading a few other posts about water pumps, I started thinking we may have a problem. So, yesterday when I was troubleshooting the coax system that I'll post about in an appropriate section of the forum later, I looked at the pump again.

Here is the problem. When dry camping, the pump runs which means that Heartland did better with the water pump than they did with the water heater. All faucets off, it will run for 5-10 min until pressure climbs high enough and shut off. Good that it shuts off, bad that it takes so long. These times are after system is full from city water connection and pressure was let off from the kitchen or front bathroom sink faucet. I always release the pressure from the system when travelling to reduce the ridgitiy in the plumbing while bouncing down the highway.

When you open a faucet, the water flows and flow drops as pressure drops. The pump kicks on and water flow falls until it trickles out of the faucet. I'm guessing it's in the range of 1 gallon per hour, but that's probably high.

Yesterday when looking into the coax layout, I looked at the pump. It's a 5.7 gpm surflo. I was happy to see a higher capacity pump than I expected. I checked the strainer which was clean and had water in it. So, I shut off the city water and turned on the pump (yes, the fresh water tank is full, verified by draining the tank, checking for proper function of level indication, refilling until water came out the vent.

Once set up, I had the wife man the kitchen faucet (it doesn't matter which faucet you use, it's still a trickle.) I had her open the faucet while I observed the pump. The water flowed while pressure dropped, the pump kicked on and the flow continued to decrease to a trickle. The suction line looks shrivels like it's struggling to get water from the source. I turned the winterizing valve to winterize and the pump flowed momentairly until it sucked air from the winterizing line.

It looks like my problem is somewhere in the line going to the fresh water tank or in the fresh water tank. I'm planning on disconnecting the line from the winterizing valve and running the pump from a bucket of water to verify full flow, then hooking up the pump directly to the line leading to the fresh water tank to rule out the winterizing valve.

My questions are:
Anyone have this problem before? What was the problem?
If I do confirm that it is the line to the fresh tank, how do I get access this line since it disappears into the floor? Do I have to take down the plastic underbelly cover or is there an easier way to access the fresh tank and supply line? Where exactly is the fresh tank? I'm assuming directly above the fresh tank drain line.
Anyone have any other items I should check like inline valves?
 

Bob&Patty

Founders of SoCal Chapter
Steve, is the suction line collapsing when the pump runs? I wonder if the line is pinched? I also wonder if there is something blocking the pickup tube in the tank. Yes you do have to drop the coroplast to get to the tank and line. As far as where your FW tank is...I have no idea. Give HL a call...they can tell you where it is located.
 

JohnDar

Prolifically Gabby Member
To test the pump via the winterizing system, you really don't need to disconnect anything. Just extend the antifreeze pickup tube to reach a bucket or jerry can of water and set the system valves to winterize. The pump will draw from the container and it will flow out any open faucet. That's how I flush the coolant from my system and sanitize the lines (bit of bleach in the container).
 

ScubaSteve

Full Timer
To test the pump via the winterizing system, you really don't need to disconnect anything. Just extend the antifreeze pickup tube to reach a bucket or jerry can of water and set the system valves to winterize. The pump will draw from the container and it will flow out any open faucet. That's how I flush the coolant from my system and sanitize the lines (bit of bleach in the container).

I agree that will test the valve in the winterize position, but it will not validate that it does/does not work in the normal position. I would much rather find out that the winterize valve was manufactured wrong (though I doubt it's the problem) before I drop the coroplast to check the tank. It would take a few minutes to verify, much less time than removing the plastic.

Bob&Patty, yes, the suction line is collapsing. I figured I'd have to drop the coroplast. Thanks for the input.
 

JohnDar

Prolifically Gabby Member
My comment was related to you wanting to test the function of the pump, not the winterize valve. But, that would actually cover both, since the winterize valves must function properly to be able to draw water via the antifreeze tube. Opening and closing the valves while drawing water would indicate if there is a problem with the valving.
 

MROPE

Member
Hey Steve , had the same problem on our 09 sundance . got to looking and found another valve in the line going to the fresh water tank . about 4 inches from the winterizing valve . had to open it to get water from fresh water tank . hope this helps . Marvin
 

Duramax1

Well-known member
I also have two valves that must be rotated when switching from the fresh water tank to the winterizing hose.

If the inlet hose from the fresh water tank to the water pump is slightly compressing when being used, you might try blowing out that line before removing all of the coroplast in the off chance that something is plugging the line or the inlet to it. Not an ideal solution even if it works however, because you will not have permanently removed the blockage but simply have moved it and it may return again to the line and/or inlet. But if it works, it certainly is an easier quick fix.
 

jmgratz

Original Owners Club Member
ours did that (loose pressure at the faucet) and the pump was bad. Replaced the pump and it works great.
 

porthole

Retired
Steve - did you try just using the bucket and winterizing hose yet? Pump work? Your problem is not at all normal for that pump. That pump will outperform some campground water supply systems.

At least on my trailer I could remove just the screws in the tank area to get a look at the hoses and tank.
Can't speak for the 3950 but on the 3010 there are two tanks mounted length wise across the frame. The front tank flows to the rear tank from a side wall center located 1.5" hose into the rear tank. The pump picks up it's feed from the rear tank, ODS forward edge. from this fitting it is just a piece of hose tot the bump that runs through - above - below the frame. Good chance you have a pinched or bent hose.

The 1st picture below shows sneaking a peak at the tanks b just pulling the coroplast down on one edge.
The second is a picture (Doug from California I think) of the tanks as they are mounted. You can see the crossover and on the left lower edge of the right tank you can see the pump supply fitting.
The large fitting on the right tank near side is the 1.5" hose from the fill port in the UDC
 

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lwmcguir

Well-known member
Steve - did you try just using the bucket and winterizing hose yet? Pump work? Your problem is not at all normal for that pump. That pump will outperform some campground water supply systems.

At least on my trailer I could remove just the screws in the tank area to get a look at the hoses and tank.
Can't speak for the 3950 but on the 3010 there are two tanks mounted length wise across the frame. The front tank flows to the rear tank from a side wall center located 1.5" hose into the rear tank. The pump picks up it's feed from the rear tank, ODS forward edge. from this fitting it is just a piece of hose tot the bump that runs through - above - below the frame. Good chance you have a pinched or bent hose.

The 1st picture below shows sneaking a peak at the tanks b just pulling the coroplast down on one edge.
The second is a picture (Doug from California I think) of the tanks as they are mounted. You can see the crossover and on the left lower edge of the right tank you can see the pump supply fitting.
The large fitting on the right tank near side is the 1.5" hose from the fill port in the UDC

Great post, I wondered how they were hooked together. Thanks very much.
 

ScubaSteve

Full Timer
Steve - did you try just using the bucket and winterizing hose yet? Pump work?
- Porthole

Great post and thanks for the pics. Since we're on vacation in Pensacola, 100 yards from the bay and it's been raining for 2 days straight; I decided to take another look. I was inspired by the two posts about additional valves. I had looked before, but it was getting dark and thought I might have missed something. I combed over the lines and there is not another valve. I tried the pump through the winterizing line and it works fine. The problem is between the winterizing valve and the tank somewhere. After seeing your picture, I wouldn't be surprised if the hose is crimped going over the frame support. I'll wait for a break in the rain before trying to peak at the tank and lines. One question, do you know where the drain line is on the tank? My guess is rear tank, towards the rear. I'm just looking for a good point to start unscrewing the coroplast.

you might try blowing out that line before removing all of the coroplast

This is in my list of next steps once I grab some hose clamps for reassembly. I agree, it would indicate blockage that would likely return, not a great solution.

I'm keeping my fingers crossed for an easily found and corrected kinked hose. I appreciate the input and will update after more troubleshooting.
 

Bob&Patty

Founders of SoCal Chapter
Steve, after thinking about your situation. I dont know if the pickup tube in the tank has a filter on it. If it does, then it could be acting like a car does went the tank filter gets plugged. Runs great until you put a load on it. The engine will almost quit running. The vacumn to the line decreases and the debris falls away. Now the fuel pump can start pumping full pressure again. It will repete this over and over again until the debris is removed or cleaned out. Maybe someone will chime on the filter aspect of the FW tank pickup hose.
 

porthole

Retired
One question, do you know where the drain line is on the tank? My guess is rear tank, towards the rear. I'm just looking for a good point to start unscrewing the coroplast.

On mine the drain was about 2 feet forward of the supply fitting, just a tee in the line. And it only drains the front tank to you get to the bottom of the crossover fitting. The rear tank will drain more, but not completely. The front tanks on at least the 3010's always had about 15-20 gallons of water in them.

I think you should just be able to sneak a peak in between the coroplast and frame to get an idea where the tanks are, then remove a few screws.

Several of us have changed the lines and added fittings to the bottom of the tanks and tied both of them together at the bottom.

Sounds like you have a pinched hose somewhere. On mine the hoses ran along the inside of the left frame rail, so you may have to take down more of the cover then just one side.

Steve, after thinking about your situation. I don't know if the pickup tube in the tank has a filter on it. If it does, then it could be acting like a car does went the tank filter gets plugged. Runs great until you put a load on it. The engine will almost quit running.

No filter, just a fitting on the side of the tank.
 

ScubaSteve

Full Timer
The results are out! Thanks for all the input.

I finally made it to Texas where we had plenty of space and time to take a look and get parts as needed. We also had plenty of giant red ants that happened to be right where I was working! I was able to take a peak by removing a couple screws. It was quite obvious what the problem as you can see in the photo below. To correct the problem, I removed the winterizing line and fw tank supply line at couplings near the winterizing valve. I connected the two and fed the hose through so I didn't pull a line out and have to remove more chloroplast to re-feed the line. I used PVC cutter to cut out the kink and let the wife plug the fw line to avoid draining the tank. Added a coupling and used the kinked line (after cutting out the kink) for the winterizing line. I now have a couple extra couplings and hose clamps to have handy for future problems.

I imagine this occurred because the hoses were ran up to the interior, then the chloroplast was installed, then the hoses were pulled through to make the final connections. Though not as bad as leaving wires exposed and un-connected to the water heater, this still shows poor QA from the factory. Nonetheless, I still love it and the water flows great now!

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