If/when I ever get my 4 month old 5ver out of the shop with continued fridge trouble, I am contemplating installing the JT Strong-Arm stabilizers that I removed from my old camper on my 2011 3670 Bighorn. My question is has anyone put these on their Bighorn? I've got the front install figure out but don't have a plate/beam to attach them to on the rear. Any suggestions will be greatly appreciated. Also if anyone has done this does it make the front landing gear ride much lower when raised all the way up? Thanks in advance for your replies. Steve A. Dagro
Strong-Arm Stabilizers
- Thread starter sdagro
- Start date
Many of us have put them on our longer units and you'll find they work OK but don't take all the movement out. I have found that if one uses these AND a mid trailer support it's solid as a rock. For the support I went to an auto junkyard and got two jap car scissor jacks and use these under the frame rails at midship. They're lightweight and cheap.
I carry two large bottle jacks also. I used these for awhile untill I thought about someone making off with them while we are away from the rig, they're spendy and didn't want to be without them for all the uses they afford.
On the rears run the arm forward, not to the middle rear. They work much better.
I carry two large bottle jacks also. I used these for awhile untill I thought about someone making off with them while we are away from the rig, they're spendy and didn't want to be without them for all the uses they afford.
On the rears run the arm forward, not to the middle rear. They work much better.
JohnDar
Prolifically Gabby Member
I found the same thing as Gary with the Ultra-Fab version on my 3670. I mounted the rears to the frame forward of the stabilizers and ran them backwards. I don't think there's any real steel framing under the rear cap. I put a 6000lb screw jack on block pads in front of the wheels on both sides.
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KENNY COCHRAN
MCNEESE STATE COWBOYS #1
Steve - hold off till the mcneese game and you can look at mine. Made them with 3/4" and 1" emt thin wall conduit. The 3/4 slides inside the 1" and works pretty good. You can build them and save a couple hundred dollars. Got mine in the shop this am for the dometic fridge. Will keep you posted.
Kenny
Kenny
I already have the JT Strong-Arms. Removed them from my old 5ver before trade-in. Got 2 calls from heartland this morning. They had conference call with Dometic/KMRV and decided to send another refer...same kind, and try that. They want tech to remove old one and plug it in shop and observe. Then to plug in the new one in shop and make sure it works before install. Sounds crazy but if you don't do what they tell you then nothing gets done. Mine works under my shed and in the dealership shop. It's when you put it in direct sunlight it goes to $$$. Perhaps if it is on the verge of "being bad" then the high ambient temp can put it over the edge. Does that make sense?
Got them installed this past Friday. Only problem I ran across was the bolt that takes the place of the pin holding the foot to the rear jacks was too short. Called Happijac and they are sending me out 2 to replace them. Hope they come in today so I can have a complete job before we leave tomorrow for a long LSU weekend. Geaux Tiger, Steve
I installed my rear stabilizers pointing to the front of the rig---that way you have the frame to bolt in to. I find they work just great mounted that way. If you do want them to point towards the center I saw SOB take a piece of flat steel and have it welded to the back of your regular stabilizers and then mount yours to that---they said it worked just fine.
JohnDar
Prolifically Gabby Member
Funny, when I installed the Ultra-Fabs, I needed two more of the longer bolts than came with the set for the same reason. They sent them out to me, no problem.
Exactly what type screw jack did you use? Steve
JohnDar
Prolifically Gabby Member
I used these bad boys. I put a piece of wood under the frame to help protect the Coroplast from the small diameter of the screw head and ran them up until they were as tight as I could make them without a cheater bar.
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View attachment 10305
caissiel
Senior Member
I relocated the angle of the shocks and it took most of the center movement.
I purchased 6 truck box cargo cross bars and installed clips to install them 4 in front and 2 in the back.
I do not use them on the back anymore because the rear stabalizers hold well when placed on the grass.
Last weekend we were camping in grass and I installed one across the front and one on front to back on one side thus holding the one leg forward and sideways and it stabalized the unit well enough that now I ony install 2 that way on the front.
The bars are setup with constant pressure thus no movement can be had at the bolts.
I purchased 6 truck box cargo cross bars and installed clips to install them 4 in front and 2 in the back.
I do not use them on the back anymore because the rear stabalizers hold well when placed on the grass.
Last weekend we were camping in grass and I installed one across the front and one on front to back on one side thus holding the one leg forward and sideways and it stabalized the unit well enough that now I ony install 2 that way on the front.
The bars are setup with constant pressure thus no movement can be had at the bolts.
Northwestchill
Member
I ordered the Steadyfast system directly from Steadyfast for our 2985 and had it installed last month by the dealer where we purchased the RV. We used them last week for the first time and they worked extremely well.
Westwind
Well-known member
Were you getting that much movement? We have the tire chock locks that we got for our TT and they fit our Bighorn and with those, the rear stabilizer, and the pin tripod, bought mostly to keep our heads from getting knocked. So far we have been doing well and we have a front washer dryer.
http://www.campingworld.com/shopping/item/deluxe-chock-lock-twin-pack/31695
Keep us posted if you notice a big differce.
http://www.campingworld.com/shopping/item/deluxe-chock-lock-twin-pack/31695
Keep us posted if you notice a big differce.
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