For dirtbikes, I'm assuming Heartland wants us to install chocks, has anybody done this? My worry is the fastener, without being able to get under the plywood, do i have to rely on a self-tapping metal screw? The metal is not so thick, I'd like to get the bite of the plywood as well... anybody?
Wheel chocks in garage
- Thread starter Ronn
- Start date
trackeer
Member
A great question, and one I am about to find out shortly, we ordered a 3814 and have to HD's we intend to haul around, we do have a enclosed trailer that has inset chocks and I would rather install removable chocks.
I will not cart these bikes around without chocks, the chocks in our enclosed trailer make hauling the bikes a easier and safer proposition.
Would be curious how you intend to install your chocks, I figured I would drill into the plywood and through bolt the brackets in place, removing any underbelly materials allowing me to install the hardware correctly and re-install same material after.
Moe
I will not cart these bikes around without chocks, the chocks in our enclosed trailer make hauling the bikes a easier and safer proposition.
Would be curious how you intend to install your chocks, I figured I would drill into the plywood and through bolt the brackets in place, removing any underbelly materials allowing me to install the hardware correctly and re-install same material after.
Moe
TNT
Active Member
We have a heavy iron wheel chock we simply place on the floor, put the bike in and then tie her down. Have never had a problem in 4 years with it moving around. The rubber floor also helps it from moving around. Have considered installing it permanently but just haven't been comfortable enough to do it. If you do install, let us know how you do it!
porthole
Retired
I use Bike Pro removable chocks. I have two chocks and 6 mounting plates. 2 plates in the Cyclone, 3 in my motorcycle trailer and one for the house garage.
The plates bolt to the floor. The chocks then use two bolts to secure to the plates.
There is no under belly to remove under the garage for access.
I had to loosen my fuel tanks to get a wrench in the area I mounted my chocks.
The factory supplied tie down "d-rings" use self tappers into steel channel under the floor. The floor is 1" thick plywood if you decide to just screw into the floor.
So when you look in your garage, everywhere you see a factory installed d-ring there is a steel channel going cross wise under the floor.
I will be installing aluminum load track this year, my preferred tie down method. I will probably have a mix of using though bolts into the steel channel and the same in the plywood.
The tough part will be adding tie downs near the side wall, there is no access and the walls are thick enough that you will not be able to use self tappers into the length wise steel frame rails.
I don't have a better picture, but this is my bike trailer.
The plates bolt to the floor. The chocks then use two bolts to secure to the plates.
There is no under belly to remove under the garage for access.
I had to loosen my fuel tanks to get a wrench in the area I mounted my chocks.
The factory supplied tie down "d-rings" use self tappers into steel channel under the floor. The floor is 1" thick plywood if you decide to just screw into the floor.
So when you look in your garage, everywhere you see a factory installed d-ring there is a steel channel going cross wise under the floor.
I will be installing aluminum load track this year, my preferred tie down method. I will probably have a mix of using though bolts into the steel channel and the same in the plywood.
The tough part will be adding tie downs near the side wall, there is no access and the walls are thick enough that you will not be able to use self tappers into the length wise steel frame rails.
I don't have a better picture, but this is my bike trailer.
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