Winterizing.....Anybody blow out the water lines?

I have never done this but was wondering if anybody blew out the lines with compressed air. How effective is this? Thanks...Al

I have heard of this being done but with you being in On, Canada I would still use the rv anti freeze. Better safe than sorry next season.

I have used air to blow out water line and test for leaks in houses that I have remodeled. it is a very common practice for sprinkler systems.

The trick is you need high volumes of at at a low pressure and many small portable unit can not keep up with the volume need. You do not want to get more than 40-50Psi in the lines at any time.

I have never done this myself as I don't have to winterize where I liive and travel, however I have talked to many who use compressed air to winterize. The key is to be careful to not use too much pressure. I would not use over 20 psi and would even be careful using that. It would be easy to blow out a fitting. Also be sure to have the faucets open when using the air pressure. A closed faucet could result in a damaged line.

Its the only way I have ever done this, including winterizing the washing machine. I use the hot water tank as an air tank and fill it to 40Lbs and open the taps one at a time and usualy fill it twice to drain the system. Put the washer on wash cycle and it drains itself of all moisture in the pump. Pour antifreeze in the drains and also in the washer hose to fill the pump of antifreeze.

Also used winshield washer in the drains much cheaper the the pink stuff.

By filling the HW tank the air flow is much faster through the lines and in less then 15minutes its all done. I do have a fitting that will screw in the water tank drain fitting with a valve

When I use it again the water is clean on the first run of the tap.

I usally will disconnect the fittings at the pump to make sure the pump had no water stuck in it.

From the above, it sounds like more work with a risk of over/under pressuring lines than simply using RV antifreeze which, when it flows from each of the outlets. gives you the peace of mind that your lines are protected.

Laurent - using the WH tank as an air tank is brilliant. I may have to try it if I have the right fittings to thread into the anode rod hole.

I prefer to use the compressed air method of winterizing. I made up a brass adapter with a quick chuck coupler on the end. I screw this adapter into the city water connection and use the compressor from my truck to charge the system. As others have stated, always make sure to drain the water heater first, and before doing that, take the pressure off the hot water system by either opening a hot water tap or the relief valve on the water heater. I vividly (not fondly) remember my first time winterizing my 2005 LM, removing the anode rod and having is nearly hit the neighbor's trailer! And all the HOT water and mineral crud blown out onto me Once the water heater is drained, rinse it out and then put it into bypass mode.

Jim

If you look at the tubing and lines in the basement of these units its all air for me.

I have never done it using the city water inlet but if there is no check at the HW tank inlet it surely could be done using the HW tank in the mix as a supply of air. I always felt that the hose line was never enough to run the water fast enough in the pipes.

Be sure that the tank is relieved before taking the anode out the bottom.

I install an air chuck adapter into the city water intake, set my little 3 gallon compressor to 40 psi and blow it all out. No problem. Open the low point drains and let 'er blow until air comes out there, too. THEN I pump pink antifreeze into the plumbing and open each faucet (hot & cold) until a STEADY stream of antifreeze comes out. I'll also pour some into each drain to be sure some is in the trap and at the valve of the tanks. Naturally, the water heater is in bypass while pumping antifreeze, with the anode out and the water drained. It stays like that for the winter. For the washer/dryer, I pour some into the drum and run a cycle per the instructions for it (using a generator for power).

Come spring, I'll clear the lines with air pressure again, and connect my water pump coolant line to a container of fresh water to rinse the lines at the storage yard. Once I get to a city water supply, I'll flush the lines again and then fill the water heater, along with running a rinse cycle on the W/D.

Blow out you black tank flush also.

hmm. well - we may have blown out the water lines, but not in a GOOD way... We are in Florida and it rarely freezes, and we didn't take the required precautions. but it might have hit freezing a few days while we were away last winter... anyway we are using it for the first time and guess what... when we filled the tank, about 2 hours later the entire underbody panel was full of water... We drilled holes to drain it but now what? ideas? thoughts? (Other than the obvious derogatory comments on our shoddy preventative maintenance practices) How do we get a schematic of the underbody? The panel does not look easily removable.

Also, make sure you leave all faucets open will winterized!

Not sure on the Sundance, but the Cyclones you have to remove all bolts and and make a few cuts to clear brake lines and plumbing then slide out towards the front of the trailer. I have sectioned mine for easier removal and installation.