Battery Life?

When we picked up our Bighorn in April of 2010, we transferred the pair of Trojan T105's from our SOB to the Bighorn. I have been very happy with these batteries until this last weekend.

We usually drycamp, and as it started getting dark, we turned on a light or two. Within a second, they clicked OFF, along with everything in the unit that was on 12v power, then reset and came back on, another second and the process repeats....

It looks like both batteries (two 6 volt in series) failed, and were only putting out very minimal power. Fortunately we had a generator for backup, but prefer the quietness of battery power.

Once we got home, I put the batteries on a 6 volt charger for about 3 hours each, and it doesn't look like they are going to recharge. Amazing - two weeks ago they seemed fine!

So another thing to add to my checklist before departing: check the battery charge level (while disconnected from any AC)!!

These aren't cheap batteries, around $145 each, or almost $300 for the pair. Trojan states they should last 3-5 years. Three years doesn't seem very long for $300!! (Although I'm guessing we got 4 1/2 out of ours)

Any better recommendations for battery power??? Thanks!

Al S.

On my first trailer I never had battery problem for the 5 years we had it. The second trailer was fine until we went full time after 7 years on one battery. It seam that I always have one of the 2 batteries down, though I try to replace them in pairs. My friend is using heavy duty batteries and finds that he gets more power out of using one battery at at a time when rough camping. I got caught again last month with 2 good batteries that would not hold their charge, they test ok but drain very quickly. I am like you still studying the possible problems. I use to camp for 2 days with the furnace going on one battery. With 2 I was able to hold just a few hrs last month.

Might be that our unit love DC power to much.

I am having the same problem on my truck discharging to much for comfort.

Since battery sulfation is the number one killer of lead acid batteries, you might want to do an internet search and try one of the electronic anti-sulfation devices. These put a high voltage pulse through the batteries occasionally that is supposed to break up the sulfation process. Google the term "Battery Sulfation" to see some choices. One I looked at (Optima) said it could rejuvinate any sulfated battery and cost about $65.

Your converter should run a desulfation cycle, if you have access to shore power. It may be necessary for dry-campers to hook their rigs to shore power between trips for an extended period to get it to do it, though. This is from the Charge Wizard Indicator pendant page of Progressive Dynamics.

The Desulfation Mode
The DESULFATION MODE is only active when the Charge Wizard is in the STORAGE MODE. During this mode a timer in the micro-processor automatically switches the Charge Wizard to the BOOST MODE for 15-minutes every 21-hours. This higher voltage causes some slight gassing, and mixes up the battery electrolyte to prevent battery stratification, and the resulting sulfation of the plates, which is the leading cause of loss of battery power.
Note: When no 120 VAC power is applied to the RV through the Shore Power Cord, or Generator, the Indicator Light will remain "ON" at all times. This indicates that the Charge Wizard is monitoring the battery voltage.

Al, I'm curious about your original post. You said that everything 12V "clicked off" and then reset after a few seconds. What the heck is that about? When my batteries die, everything just slowly goes dark.

branson4020 said:

Al, I'm curious about your original post. You said that everything 12V "clicked off" and then reset after a few seconds. What the heck is that about? When my batteries die, everything just slowly goes dark.

Click to expand...

Agree, sounds almost as if a DC circuit breaker is tripping and resetting. Not sure what devices are in the wiring from your battery.

UPDATE:
Put in a battery with a good charge on it today. Tried the lights. Ah ha! Same issue with the lights - they go off and on. Put a meter across each breaker, located outside above the battery box, and sure enough the second breaker is the culprit. Hopefully it's just a weak breaker.

Recommendations on where to get these breakers? Will an auto parts store have them? Or more likely a RV store?

Thanks!

Al

John:
I didn't think that the "Charge Wizard" was standard equipment on Heartlands. I sure don't have the remote readout panel. The wizard costs about $60. Then to have it work right you have to have your trailer parked somewhere it can be plugged in continuously.
Some of the desulfator boxes I described use the battery's own power (jumped up in voltage within the box) to apply an occasional high voltage pulse to the batteries on a continuous timed basis.

JohnDar said:

Your converter should run a desulfation cycle, if you have access to shore power. It may be necessary for dry-campers to hook their rigs to shore power between trips for an extended period to get it to do it, though. This is from the Charge Wizard Indicator pendant page of Progressive Dynamics.

The Desulfation Mode
The DESULFATION MODE is only active when the Charge Wizard is in the STORAGE MODE. During this mode a timer in the micro-processor automatically switches the Charge Wizard to the BOOST MODE for 15-minutes every 21-hours. This higher voltage causes some slight gassing, and mixes up the battery electrolyte to prevent battery stratification, and the resulting sulfation of the plates, which is the leading cause of loss of battery power.
Note: When no 120 VAC power is applied to the RV through the Shore Power Cord, or Generator, the Indicator Light will remain "ON" at all times. This indicates that the Charge Wizard is monitoring the battery voltage.

Click to expand...

Al,

You should be able to get that breaker from an auto or marine parts store. What you want is a 50A manual-reset 12V DC breaker. Here is the Heartland engineering drawing that shows those breakers.

Thanks Bob! God I LOVE this forum!!

Question: The breaker currently installed in the system must be an auto reset right now? Because it "breaks", then restores power. I'll see if I can find a manual reset...

Most of the breaker you'll find at an auto parts store will be auto reset. Might have to go on-line or to a RV/ electronics store to find a manual.

wdk450 said:

John:
I didn't think that the "Charge Wizard" was standard equipment on Heartlands. I sure don't have the remote readout panel. The wizard costs about $60. Then to have it work right you have to have your trailer parked somewhere it can be plugged in continuously.
Some of the desulfator boxes I described use the battery's own power (jumped up in voltage within the box) to apply an occasional high voltage pulse to the batteries on a continuous timed basis.

Click to expand...

Bill, I know the little indicator pendant is not standard, but it costs something less than $30 from Progressive Dynamics. That alone, however, does not get you Charge Wizard function. If you have a 9200 series converter, it has the Charge Wizard function built in and will accept the plug-in indicator pendant. The 9100 series models, as you indicate, will need the add-on module, to have that capability. The 4000 series, replacement models, come with it installed.

UPDATE:
Only took four stops to find a 40 AMP auto reset breaker. The original, also an auto reset, was only a 30AMP. I have a chart (somewhere) that Heartland sent me right after we got our 3670, because the slideout pump breaker was only a 20 (!!) AMP from Heartland. We'll see how this fares - may have to order online the manual reset... Going out this weekend for some waterfowling.

Will also check what model my convertor is.

Can hardly wait to see what I got to buy after this trip!

Al,
You really want the correct breaker. Remember it not only limits the amount of current from your battery to your 12V fuse panel, but it also limits the charging current from the convertor to your batteries.

skyguy said:

UPDATE:
Only took four stops to find a 40 AMP auto reset breaker. The original, also an auto reset, was only a 30AMP. I have a chart (somewhere) that Heartland sent me right after we got our 3670, because the slideout pump breaker was only a 20 (!!) AMP from Heartland. We'll see how this fares - may have to order online the manual reset... Going out this weekend for some waterfowling.

Will also check what model my convertor is.


Can hardly wait to see what I got to buy after this trip!

Click to expand...

Al, mine is a 2009 BH3670 and it came with the Model 9260 Converter (with Charge Wizard). If you can see the label and Merlin is grinning back at you, you've got the same thing. Check in your info packet, the manual should be in there. In the event you somehow got a 9100 series converter, you can add the Charge Wizard function to it. You won't see Merlin's smiling face on the converter label, however.