GFI Question

Hi folks.
We were at the Salem RV show and took a look at some other brands as well as the Heartland units that were there. I noticed that the Big County (like mine) only had one GIF breaker for the entire unit while some others had 2 or more. Was kind of wondering why Heartland only has one so I asked the dealer and was told "hmmmm, thats a good question why don't you ask Heartland?", so I,m asking (grin).

Brian, I have a 2011 BH with one GFCI in it... The NEC (National Electrical Code) states the outlets in the Kitchen, Bath, Outside, & Laundry have to be protected by GFCI's, nothing else (yet). My BH has the Bath, Kitchen & OS on the one GFCI. It's a 15 amp unit as is the wiring. On my last trip out the portable oil filled radiator tripped the GFCI and it was cold in the barn come morning. As soon as I get time I'll remove the single GFCI and eliminate the nuisance tripping problem. If I get fried you can be the first to say "I told you BIG brother was right". So far in over 100 years of electric use none of my family members have been toasted... I'll take the chance. By the way, the current (newest) NEC changes add about $400.00 additional cost to a new home. We now need to have "ARC Fault" protecting breakers on bedroom circuits. Tell that to the arching electric blanket controls. These ARC fault breakers also generate a lot of heat in the breaker panel... heat = energy = $ wasted. I'd love to see how protected the next generation will be... Maybe they'll just "OUTLAW" the use of electric altogether. The Amish are already compliant and good to go, they were right all along Be happy with one GFCI because 2 is twice the trouble. I once gave a talk and live demonstration on how one can still get electrocuted on a GFCI protected circuit... the audience was "shocked".

Thanks for the info Tom. I will just learn to live with it as with the way the unit is wired. I still don't like the way all the plugs in the living area and Kitchen are on one breaker. But I have learned, no coffee when using a heater and no heater if I need the micro hehe.

Brian:
A GFI outlet has Ground and Neutral wires like any other standard outlet, but has Line and Load Hot connections somewhat like a light wall switch. If you want to have seperate GFI's downstream of the existing GFI, you need to move the downstream Load wire on the existing GFI to the same terminal as the incoming Line. Then you can repeat that process on the succeeding outlets in the chain that you replace with GFI's (you will have to identify the incoming and outgoing hot wires on these - there should be 2 on each hot terminal unless the outlets are parallel connected at some hidden junction box). The idea here is to replace 1 master GFI outlet will all independent GFI outlets. I would not change a GFI protected outlet to a non-GFI protected status. The master breaker will still protect this entire circuit.
Of course, do all of these wiring changes with the power off to the trailer.