View Full Version : 2011 Big Country King pin Height for level ride with 2011 F350

10-30-2010, 01:31 PM
We just drove to the dealership to pick up our new 3450ts only to find out that our 2011 F350, Lariat, 6.7L 4x4 sits too high to enable a level riding 5ver. I have a Trailer Saver (Hensley) BD-3 hitch that sits between 19-20 inches above the truck bed...however, the off road package that came installed on the truck lifts the rear end 4-5 inches. Does anyone have any suggestions other than having the lift blocks removed...which I guess isn't a bad thing since it will lower the CG as well as level the trailer. I don't plan to do any off roading anyway.
Thanks in advance for any advice you can offer!

Ray LeTourneau
10-30-2010, 01:56 PM
Removing the rear blocks may be your best option. I'm not familiar with newer trucks and their options but won't you have to lower the front an equal or similar amount? Is this something that can be done?

10-30-2010, 04:52 PM
I have the F250 with the 2" inch blocks and the truck lowers by about 2" when I hook it on the 5er.
With the setup the trailer rides level.

But I had to removed the rear blocks for the previous trailer and the truck was fairly level due to an extra ply on the spring. had to remove the blocks because the rear was to high and running the tail gate to close to the trailer.

The single wheel F350 sits much higher then the F250, thats one of the reason I prefer the F250 setup.

Maybe F250 Blocks would lower the rear of your truck enough.

10-30-2010, 05:05 PM
I have a 2011 F350 Lariat, SRW, 6.7L diesel, 4x4 with the off road package ( a few skid plates and a 3.5" lift). I installed a trailer saver (Hensley) BD-3 air ride hitch and drove to the RV dealership to pull our new 2011 Big Country 3450TS home for the first time. Two issues tho' , 1) the 5ver was a bit nose up when hitched to the truck, and 2) it sure looks to me like the pin box is going to hit the truck bed sidewalls if I need to turn or back up sharply. The service manager said the truck sits too high to attain a level coach and the only way to fix it is to remove the 3.5" lift blocks. I'm fine with this as you almost need a ladder to get onto the tailgate anyway (i know i know, I should've gotten the tailgate step;-(). Has anyone else had an issue like this? Although not new to trailers or class A's, this is my first 5ver and I appreciate any advice you can offer. Thank you! Dave

10-30-2010, 05:06 PM
May not solve the problem, but this is from the Hensley website BD3 page:

Adjustable from 16" - 19" (from truck bed to top of hitch head)

10-30-2010, 05:16 PM
Thanks Dan and Ruth Ann, I actually have the hitch in it's lowest setting already. Btw, love the look of your Sierra and Rushmore! Any issues with the SRW? I simply couldn't justify a DRW for my daily driver and part time tow vehicle.

10-30-2010, 05:20 PM
Thank you for the advice. I probably should've gone with the F250 but wanted the extra payload for a heavier 5ver. I'll have to see what Ford says on Monday. Thanks again!

10-30-2010, 05:25 PM
Ray I'm not 100% sure if the front needs to come down or not. Currently the front tire is 8.5" from the lip of the wheel well and the rear tire is 10.5" from the wheel well. I think the truck will ride level...although I'll bet I have to change to a shorter shock. Thanks for the help!

10-30-2010, 06:08 PM
The off road package does lift the rear but upgrades the front as well, when loaded it will ride level (the truck) removing the rear blocks will throw everything out of alignment. The rear blocks are more than lift blocks they orientate the pinion as well as provide the bump stops something to stop. That would be the horn on the lift blocks purpose. There are no blocks in the front, they use new coils.

There is not much in the way of lowering the truck without lowering the capacity on the suspension. DJM makes a drop kit for the 2010 3" front 5" rear that can be modified to work on the 2011 but it requires the removal of the helper spring, a much needed component in your application.

There are some air bag options out their but these are custom set-ups and can be fairly spendy.

Aside from raising the pin on the trailer and adding lift blocks to its suspension I don't see much in the way of cheap solution.

Best of luck.

10-30-2010, 08:03 PM
Thanks for the information Bighurt. Looks like I may have made a very costly error in selecting a truck with the off road pkg. The heck of it is I really didn't want the off road pkg...but got a great deal on the truck. Live and learn I guess. Thanks again! Dave

10-30-2010, 08:06 PM
only to find out that our 2011 F350, Lariat, 6.7L 4x4 sits too high to enable a level riding 5ver.

Single or dual rear wheel?

10-30-2010, 08:12 PM

10-30-2010, 08:20 PM
Sounds like it would be much simpler to raise your trailer suspension. A good shop can do it in less than a day and you could beef it up a bit as well. I wouldn't mess with the truck suspension at all. We have raised trailers suspension in the past to get a level ride and it worked fine. Surely you wouldn't have to raise the Coach 5 inches though. We usually raised them around 2 inches. I have seen some on the road that are raised 5 or so and they were getting along OK. You want to keep plenty of clearance between the bed and the pin for dips and tight spots so raising the Coach seems to be the only alternative.

10-30-2010, 08:24 PM
I was afraid that may be a primary alternative. Can you suggest what can been done to beef up the suspension? Springs, bags, etc? Thanks again for the advice!

10-30-2010, 10:45 PM
I found new leaf springs here;


Combining heavy spring packs and 1 - 2 inch lift blocks with new u bolts should yield sufficient lift. I'm not sure what packs you currently have on the unit.

10-30-2010, 10:57 PM
I would think you would be a little nose high with your setup. My truck sides are lower than yours even if you didn't have a lift, and mine was nose high. Have you checked to see if you spring hangers have adjusting holes? Mine did, so I just dropped them down to the lowest of the three holes and it is perfectly level now. The downside is you trailer now sits higher, with a slightly higher center of gravity, but it would help your leveling

10-30-2010, 11:26 PM
You need to start thinking about the other side of the 5er also....the top... how high are you getting by adding blocks and springs? Factory shows 12' 11" stock... do you have front A/C,,,it adds a couple more inches... And I think over in your neck of the woods there are some low underpasses.

10-31-2010, 09:13 AM
Trailer height and CG are very much on my mind. The last thing I want to do is raise the 5er. I'll have a better idea of my options once I talk to Ford tomorrow. Hard to believe they can't simply lower the tail end a couple of inches....as it would actually make the truck ride level....or just a smidge tail up. Thanks again for your sage advice. Dave

10-31-2010, 12:21 PM
The F350 SRW is setup higher with larger tires.

At the introduction of the first Ford super duties, Ford came up with a lowering kit that alowed the mid shaft bearing to be relocated along with the rear blocks modified to lower them to suit the 5th wheels at the time, that were much lower pin height like the previous trailer I owned.
So by lowering the back of my truck work realy well to line the unit up so as when I unhook the trailer would be level.

I replaced the blocks to suit the BC height and when I unhook the trailer sits level.

Your truck most be much higher then mine due to your saying it sits higher up front.

Mine is down 2" when hooked leaves the front lower by 2" compared to unhooked.

I prefer that the rear of the truck be lower then the front so that the rear of the box be further from the trailer then at the front, to give better clearance.

I have seen so many setup that with air bags the rear is lifted, cutting in the rear of the box clearnce.

Hope you work it out without raising your trailer because they are already high enough at 12' 11". with 7" from the 13'6" top height.

10-31-2010, 09:02 PM
The SRW hasn't been an issue at all. A few friends warned about handling when tractor trailers pass us, or come against us on a 2 lane road but I haven't had any problem with this. I've driven a little thru moderate crosswinds where I could see the treetops moving and could feel the wind on the rig, but it was not creating any sort of handling issue. Sometimes I can barely tell that I'm towing. The GVRW of 11,600 seems a good match for the Rushmore pin weight, truck options, etc.

10-31-2010, 10:24 PM
You may be able to easily lower the rear of your truck by replacing the axle blocks with those from a 2wd version of the same truck. You may have to use the shorter 2wd axle u bolts as well. The factory 2wd axle blocks should have the proper wedge shape to maintain the proper pinion angle needed. I was going to do this on my previous F-150 to lower the rear 2" but traded it instead. Not real expensive and the parts should be available direct from Ford...Don

11-01-2010, 08:12 PM
Thanks for the information! I feel better knowing that a "like" setup is working well for you. We're going to pick up our 3450TS this Friday and I can't wait to get on the road with it. Thanks again! Dave

11-01-2010, 08:18 PM
After some additional measurements and conversation with our salesman as well as specs on the pin box, we feel comfortable that we'll be able to tow safely without making any adjustments to the truck or 5er. Thank you for the information!