Slam baggage door suggestions?

ChopperBill

Well-known member
The door side slam door has gas springs that hold it up. It you push up on the door it will go a little higher. On my old BH with convention doors the off door side storage door would do the same but would go almost vertical. I would like my new one to do the same. Is there a way to adjust/move/replace the gas springs to make it do the same?
 

jbeletti

Well-known member
Bill,

You can if you wish, move the brackets for the springs, where they mount to the door frame, up a bit higher. I think you will need to experiment a bit with it to get it where you'd prefer to have it. I suppose you could reposition the brackets on the door instead, but that would require a lot of new holes and leave a lot of empty holes visible.

Jim
 

Bob&Patty

Founders of SoCal Chapter
Chopper, most of the time the length of the struts determine how far the door moves. Playing with the location of the brackets might help but it can cause other problems. There are "angles of the dangles" to deal with. You might look into longer struts and try that 1st. With longer struts ....you have to make sure that the door will close without the strut bottoming out. It can get tricky. JMHO
 

ChopperBill

Well-known member
The brackets are as high as they can go on the door so the only alternative would be the frame. Could replace the struts but have no idea where to start in length. I have thought about making the struts detachable and putting one of those conventional door holders where I could manually hold it up. Thought someone might have gone through this and would give out the secret in strut length and position.
 

jnbhobe

Well-known member
My doors were retro fitted at Mor-ryde, when we installed the struts we made it so they opened the doors as far as the hinges would let them. worked good for two years now. If you go too far you will scratch the door.
 

ChopperBill

Well-known member
My doors were retro fitted at Mor-ryde, when we installed the struts we made it so they opened the doors as far as the hinges would let them. worked good for two years now. If you go too far you will scratch the door.

Dont suppose you could give me a strut length measurement and a location. No hurry, at your convenience. Thanks
 

Bob&Patty

Founders of SoCal Chapter
Chopper, the one thing I know for a fact is, the the door inner skin where the brackets attach are very thin and weak. In the 3 years we have had our BH, I have replace the struts 2 times. Each time the same one would fail in the up position and rip the bracket off the door. If they fail in the closed position you won't know it...it will just rip the bracket off. The next time it happens, I will replace them with a 40 Ford hood hinge.
 

GOTTOYS

Well-known member
40 hood hinge, GREAT idea. Know exactly what you're talking about. It's the one with the flat coiled spring. Now I gotta go look at em and see how to do it. Got a Ford NOS and repro parts dealer not too far away, Little Dearborn. My very first car was a 40 Ford Deluxe 2 dr sdn. that I built. Not that's using your noggin....Don
 

Bob&Patty

Founders of SoCal Chapter
Don, the drawback I can see would be ....don't have your chin in the way when you open the door.
 
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Hoosier Wolverine

Active Member
My doors were retro fitted at Mor-ryde, when we installed the struts we made it so they opened the doors as far as the hinges would let them. worked good for two years now. If you go too far you will scratch the door.

Jon,

Did Mor-ryde retrofit include the slam latches, or just the struts? There was a previous post here (2011 slam latches for storage doors) asking about the possibility of this retrofit. Could you give us some idea what this costs?

JOhn


 

jnbhobe

Well-known member
Chopper; I will try to remember to measure them I may be in the office tomorrow.

John, I have the 2010 doors that were made by Mor-ryde. They are a real good door but not like the 2011. They cost around 1K installed, that was for 4 doors.
 
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