View Full Version : Diesel Additive??

Ray LeTourneau
01-17-2007, 11:56 PM
To use or not to use? That is the question. I'm new to the ranks of diesel owners just buying my first last week. Duramax LB7 by the way. The truck seems to run fine and I understand the Ultra low sulphur shouldn't be a problem. Does anyone suggest using an additive just as a precautionary measure or just too keep injectors clean? I saw an ad for Stanadyne and it sounds like pretty good stuff. I've browsed the diesel sites and there are too many opinions mostly from folks that have modified thier engines in some way. Mine is stock. Thanks in advance for any advice.:confused:

01-18-2007, 12:06 AM
I have worked with heavy duty diesels (Detroit Diesel series 50, 60 and the screaming jimmys, Internationals) and never put in any additive. We just make sure that we are getting winter fuel (usually a darker green) and have never had any gelling problems and bad injectors. Our mechanic always said additives are useless. Just my opinion. Even my wifes Jetta TDI has never had any additives.

Tom of Ypsi
01-18-2007, 07:04 AM
I have used Stanadyne but mostly when I go way north, UP or NL Mich, just to keep the fuel from gelling. As far as performance, I have not noticed any.

01-18-2007, 08:53 AM
I worked in the engine division of Caterpillar for 35 years and we were always told not use anything in the fuel. Most do no good and some can reduce the lubricity which could harm your fuel system. I have owned a diesel pickup in Illinois for years and never had a problem with gelling since the fuel in cold areas should already be treated.


01-18-2007, 10:39 AM
I too have only used it when I knew I would be in weather that was 0f or less, to help prevent gelling. I would also add I have never had a gelling problem, just worried about it.

Ray LeTourneau
01-18-2007, 12:02 PM
Thanks for the advice. I guess I'll leave things as they are. No additives.

01-18-2007, 06:16 PM
I always use an additive, in the winter and also the summer months. I am running presently a mixture of power service and marvel mystery oil. Better idle and improved fuel mileage. With the fuel you buy now, it needs all the help it can get.

01-18-2007, 07:32 PM
My opinion is similar to nhunter and bowtorc. But with a little exception. As I buy so little fuel in the winter and our weather changes frequently ,I sometimes find myself with fuel that may not be winterized enough for present conditions.That having been said I may add a few gals of kero (non dyed) to satisfy my needs and sometimes some quality anti gel.
I have worked for some major trucking co and lastly for a small one using Cummins and Cat engines. All believed in anti gel and winterizing their fuel. I was never sure the anti gel worked as well as it's hype but the outfits I worked for did . Perhaps some corporate paranoia as downtime was very expensive..
IMHO you would not be wrong in adding the proper amount of brand name anti gel such as Stanadyne although it may not be necessary..Properly winterized fuel that is clean and fresh is key..

01-19-2007, 12:01 AM
On a side note most of our light duty diesel engines have fuel heaters in the filters that warm the fuel going through the filter to prevent the wax that "gels" from forming. No. 1 diesel is a refinery stock that is similar to kerosene and jet fuel. It has excellent winter operability because the cloud point is extremely low, typically in the range of -40°F. However, there are several drawbacks in the use of No. 1 diesel. It has lower energy content, which affects fuel economy and power. In addition, the lubricity is generally poorer than No. 2 diesel, and the price is typically higher.

Ray LeTourneau
01-19-2007, 12:24 AM
Being a full timer and a Snow bird, cold weather operation and gelling should never be an issue because we hope to stay away from the cold weather. My initial concern is keeping the fuel system clean and not doing any damage with an additive. Whats on the market that would be a safe additive that actually works.

01-19-2007, 08:37 AM
An additive's goal is not to clean the fuel system to say. It will lower the point where the wax (gel) start to develope. Add protection to moving parts my added lubricity to the fuel. Added cetane numbers for combustion preformance. However, removing damaging dirt is the function of the fuel filters. I run an 2 micron fuel fuel inline after the stock 10 micron filter.

01-19-2007, 11:14 AM
Dieselengineer. Not hijack the thread on maintainence ,but,where did you get the 2 micron filter? how did the install go?
The extra filter is superb idea..

01-19-2007, 05:26 PM
Well there is two ways to do this project. If you are like me, I searched around and found a Fleetgrard fuel filter, 2 micron spin on filter used on Cat engines and fab all the fittings to make it work. Or you can buy a kit from Glacier Diesel Power. I would recommend replacing the stock tubing between the stock filter housing to the CP pump. The added pressure drop across the filter is only about or less then 1 PSI. Up sizing the tubing and fuel line and removing the bad banjo fittings will gain back the losses. I have a fuel pressure gauge on the inlet side of the CP pump and the pressure after adding the 2 micron filter setup was about the same as stock. On a rare day I have 10 psi, the norm is 6 to 8 psi. This is real good for a 3rd gen 600. The gauge is also good to watch for a bad load of fuel. As soon as the filter clogs the pressure will drop and you can shutdown before damage, thats a good thing. The stock filter is only 10 micron, and the size is, well some thing to laugh at. It is only good for the big stones and rocks removal task.

01-19-2007, 07:02 PM
I have live down south so it never gets to cold down here. But I have a friend who works for Ford motor company and has for 38 years. His job is to over see vehicle troubles all over the eastern US. He tells me that Ford likes for their owners run Diesel kleen sliver in there fuel and change the fuel filters often. Our truck gets about 1-2 MPG more when I run Diesel kleen sliver. I put one qt in ever other tank when we are pulling. We put one in once a month when not pulling. I also change my fuel filters every other oil change. I change oil ever 5000 miles and every 3000 when pulling. I have been a fire apparatus tech for 26 years and a clean fuel system is a happy fuel system. Also make sure you buy fuel from a station thats sells alot of fuel. That way the fuel is alway fresh. Just another view. It works for us

01-19-2007, 09:36 PM
Diesel engineer .. Say , Thanks for the tip . Found glacier diesel and oh boy they have some neat stuff..
Starting to line up the spring projects ....

01-20-2007, 01:42 AM
My Ford mechanic said that lots of blown injectors were actually caused by dirty / plugged filters causing fuel starvation. They sure are cheap to change as compared to $1000/ injector! Yikes

02-13-2008, 01:27 AM
2% REG SoyPower bio-diesel is what the survey said to improve performance. Also at the pump today it said all diesel engines from 2007 on have to use ULSD.

02-14-2008, 03:05 PM
I've never worried about the gelling since I live a little lower down south, but I do use additives to eliminate the excess water that seems to accumulate out of nowhere. And it is expensive to drop the tank and clean all the fuel lines and filter.

06-25-2008, 11:06 PM
Ford Mechanic, standing in the middle of the local dealership said to ALWAYS use a fuel additive in the 6.0 turbo diesel, primarily for cetane boost. Of course he wanted me to buy the Ford stuff, probably nothing wrong with it.
I've been using Diesel Clean available at all larger truck stop fuel centers, but am switching to opti-lube xpd after reading the testing results and hearing from users in a couple of truck forums. Had to order it through their website.