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isisrider
01-24-2011, 10:15 AM
I have a new 3850 ordered that should be arriving in a few weeks and I am curious about the number and rating of the d rings in the garage. I have an enclosed trailer and I have installed new 5000 lb recessed rings. What are the ones rated in my new toyhauler? I am assuming that it will be a pain to install new ones in the floor with the enclosed belly of the toyhauler.

thanks,

porthole
01-24-2011, 12:22 PM
The 10' garage of the 3010 has 8 D-rings. They are rated IIRC at 1200 pounds each (standard type D-Rings).
3 down each side, 2 down the middle. Not enough for me.

They are installed with self tapping screws into the steel cross members that support the floor.

There is not an enclosed underbelly under the garage, so access is there. Fuel tank is in the way in the forward end but can be lowered easy enough.

In the Cyclone manual they reference the ATB aircraft track, but it was not offered when I bought mine.

What kind of D-rings did you get that were rated at 5000?

porthole
01-24-2011, 12:24 PM
Added note. The area along the side wall is not accessible under the trailer due to the aluminum body J wrap.

Manke3010
01-24-2011, 01:00 PM
I know our 3010's are a different trailer, but just yesterday, along with removing and rotating the 2 rear most D rings and having the D ring opening face forward (vs. rear), I also added 1/4" lock nuts to all the self tapping bolts that secure the D rings. I had access to all 6 of the outer D rings, didn't worry about accessing the middle rings, but I'll see if those are accessable as well.
Figured this would give me a bit more peace of mind ratcheting down the new RZR :)

isisrider
01-24-2011, 04:09 PM
I used the standard 5000 lb 4 bolt recessed style. Most trailer supply places have them, or google 5000 lb d ring and you will get a bunch of hits. You do have to drill a 3.5" hole through the floor and then the 4 bolt holes but it comes with a steel backing plate to ensure a good solid mount.

Vtxkid
01-24-2011, 06:31 PM
I know our 3010's are a different trailer, but just yesterday, along with removing and rotating the 2 rear most D rings and having the D ring opening face forward (vs. rear), I also added 1/4" lock nuts to all the self tapping bolts that secure the D rings. I had access to all 6 of the outer D rings, didn't worry about accessing the middle rings, but I'll see if those are accessable as well.
Figured this would give me a bit more peace of mind ratcheting down the new RZR :)
Good idea on the 1/4" lock nuts as I check some of mine prior to first use and found some of the fasteners to rotate with very little resistance. I added lock nuts myself to ensure my bike wouldn't take a ride on its own!

robnmo
01-24-2011, 07:32 PM
We added 6 to the existing ones and used the same identical type so all look the same and alternated their lay down pattern, I think rated at 1200 lbs. The lb rating is the "supposed" stress breaking point or give away point, it really doesn't take much to safely secure a bike upright or keep an ATV from moving, if you add an additional ring or two per side of a bike with tie down, I'd about bet the actual "stress" on a d ring or tie down strap is pretty minimal.

mroldstyle
01-29-2011, 11:16 PM
I dont think you have to worry as much about them coming out of the floor, as you do about the d-ring itself pulling apart. There not a welded d-ring. Upgrading to 5000 # or higher quality ring is well worth it.

isisrider
01-31-2011, 08:45 AM
I dont think you have to worry as much about them coming out of the floor, as you do about the d-ring itself pulling apart. There not a welded d-ring. Upgrading to 5000 # or higher quality ring is well worth it.
Yea that's what I was thinking, just for a little piece of mind. The stock d rings in most toy haulers and my enclosed trailer look like the d ring is just spot welded.

xcflyn
03-02-2011, 08:28 AM
I have a 3812 and instead of adding D rings I purchased good high quality E track, sanded, primed, and painted it with a textured satin black paint and used stainless #12 wood screws to secure it to the wood decking. I used 6 pieces of track, 4 long on the flat area and 2 on the sides of the beaver tail section (floor compartments in the way for short middle sections).
Some may argue the strength of wood screws but I believe we went every other hole on the average and used about 150 screws.The screws are not the weak point, the wood is, and heartland uses pretty good wood.We tie down 3 bikes (two road and one dirt) and always secure them the way they should be: not just with whats available. tracks lay flat to not be a bother,look great, and work very nice. I can post a pic if someone wants.

Manke3010
03-02-2011, 10:52 PM
xcflyn,

Please do post some pics if you don't mind.

I'm wanting to at the very least, buy 2 more factory matching d-rings, but I've given thought of doing the e-track.
I would really prefer any e-track type system to sit flush, like the factory d rings, but that seems difficult.

On a side note, I know if I install additional d-rings, the hole I'd need to cutout is apprx 3", but the other factory d-rings have that 3" cutout about an inch deep, it's not all the way through. The hole is like half way through the plywood decking. Any idea how they route that out...?
Getting the 3" bit is no problem, but all I can think of is a chisel, and that wouldn't be super easy/clean.

robnmo
03-03-2011, 10:03 AM
xcflyn,

Please do post some pics if you don't mind.

I'm wanting to at the very least, buy 2 more factory matching d-rings, but I've given thought of doing the e-track.
I would really prefer any e-track type system to sit flush, like the factory d rings, but that seems difficult.

On a side note, I know if I install additional d-rings, the hole I'd need to cutout is apprx 3", but the other factory d-rings have that 3" cutout about an inch deep, it's not all the way through. The hole is like half way through the plywood decking. Any idea how they route that out...?
Getting the 3" bit is no problem, but all I can think of is a chisel, and that wouldn't be super easy/clean.

We added the same type D rings to ours, after making the approx 3" hole saw cut about 3/8 or 1/2 in deep you'd be surprised how easy and clean that piece will splinter out, they used plywood not osb board so it pops out in layers pretty cleanly. We added several D rings it took me about 4 hrs from start to finish and that included removing the original ones and adding a bead of silicone to the underside of all of them, and even added a nut or two on the underside of a couple, plus clean up and even a beer or two break in between. Pretty easy addition.

mroldstyle
03-12-2011, 12:01 PM
xcflyn,

Please do post some pics if you don't mind.

I'm wanting to at the very least, buy 2 more factory matching d-rings, but I've given thought of doing the e-track.
I would really prefer any e-track type system to sit flush, like the factory d rings, but that seems difficult.

On a side note, I know if I install additional d-rings, the hole I'd need to cutout is apprx 3", but the other factory d-rings have that 3" cutout about an inch deep, it's not all the way through. The hole is like half way through the plywood decking. Any idea how they route that out...?
Getting the 3" bit is no problem, but all I can think of is a chisel, and that wouldn't be super easy/clean.

A wood chisel will pop the scrap out easily after cutting the outside with a hole saw, or
if for some reason you need the bottom more precise, use a router with a flat bottom cutter.

xcflyn
03-13-2011, 07:40 AM
xcflyn,

Please do post some pics if you don't mind.

I'm wanting to at the very least, buy 2 more factory matching d-rings, but I've given thought of doing the e-track.
I would really prefer any e-track type system to sit flush, like the factory d rings, but that seems difficult.

On a side note, I know if I install additional d-rings, the hole I'd need to cutout is apprx 3", but the other factory d-rings have that 3" cutout about an inch deep, it's not all the way through. The hole is like half way through the plywood decking. Any idea how they route that out...?
Getting the 3" bit is no problem, but all I can think of is a chisel, and that wouldn't be super easy/clean.

Sorry it took so long. I sent a few pics out to some P.M.'s and forgot to double check the forum again. Here are two pics. Not very good due to the fact I cant get a good over all pic with all our gear in the way. We full time and work camp,every week we get a few days off and leave on our bikes to do some tent camping, so all our camping and riding gear just kinda hangs out in the garage waiting for the next week.

http://i772.photobucket.com/albums/yy7/xcflyn/DSC01187.jpg

http://i772.photobucket.com/albums/yy7/xcflyn/DSC01186.jpg
yes that is my toe in that pic:eek: