View Full Version : Storing The Horn

Freddie Hicks
03-18-2007, 09:23 AM
Well I'm new to the fifth wheel thing and I have questions
1. Do you put down the back jacks when storing your trailer?
2. Do you unhook the battery?
3.Day shades,night shades,or no shades?

Thanks Freddie

Ron Schoner
03-18-2007, 09:54 AM
Freddie, I alway park/store my 5er with the shades pulled down. That keeps it cooler inside, and the fabrics do not sun fade. Also it keeps " eyes " from see what is inside. I have a master battery switch and I turn it off. I also have solar panels to keep the batteries charged. And I do not put down the back jacks. No strain on the frame.

Hope this helps.


Freddie Hicks
03-18-2007, 12:30 PM
Thanks Ron, That makes sence to me. What kind of solar panel, Amp output I guess I mean?

03-18-2007, 03:04 PM
LOL Thats kinda funny , I do just about the total opposite.

I store mine with the shade up, to keep the pleats intact. I think I read that some were Although if I had a security issue I would probably keep them down also.

I keep my back electric jacks down since I like to got out and do little things to it during the off season. It is stored in a large enclosure on my property so it is more convienent that way.

And the battery thing. I disconnect and reconnect once a month to recharge. I have read that the converter/charger can boil out the battery. I also check the water before charging. I am in the process of installing a Xantrex inverter with a built in 3 stage charger that conditions the batteries. They say I could leave that connect continusly since it is a smart charger. I will still check the water level in the batteries.

03-18-2007, 04:02 PM
Never have to worry about storing or winterizing since we're fulltiming:D:D:D

03-18-2007, 06:54 PM
Back jacks up
Window shades down
Battery disconected, by master battery switch
Visit once a month..

03-18-2007, 08:55 PM
When we lived in Northern Minnesota, I pulled our batteries out and stored them in the garage so they wouldn't freeze. Trickle charge once a month to keep them peaked. Shades down to help prevent upholstery fading. Tires on wood, not dirt, not concrete. Tire covers to prevent ultraviolet rays. Mouse traps. I put the back jacks down and used a bipod on the hitch. I believe that it helped relieve stress on the frame when sitting over the winter. Other than that, do a search on winterizing. There is a lot of excellent information in this forum on that subject. This worked for me. I'm sure that others will offer their suggestions also.

Freddie Hicks
03-19-2007, 08:55 AM
Thanks for the info, I had a travel trailer before it didn't have a few of the things the BH has though.

03-19-2007, 09:18 AM
Why not let the tire on concrete? I'm just wondering.


03-19-2007, 01:24 PM
According to studies that I have read from tire manufacturers, sitting on concrete for an extended period of time causes some of the natural oils to leach out of the rubber, making the rubber more brittle and causing premature cracking and shortens the life of the tire. This doesn't seem to happen as rapidly if placed on wood.

03-19-2007, 09:31 PM
What about tires on gravel? I've heard that gravel is OK, but concrete is not.

Also, if on wood, make sure the full tire print is supported.

03-19-2007, 10:45 PM
The same for gravel as concrete. Seems the moisture in the ground does the same thing as concrete, if I remember correctly.

03-20-2007, 07:38 AM
Hey I'm back. Thanks for the info. I also went out and read on Michelin's website about Rv tire care and they also said not to store on concrete for long periods of time. I will have to do something to fix this as I currently store our rig on a concrete pad behind our garage. Looks like I will be going to Lowes to get some 2x12s. Wish I had known this before I poured the pad, I would have had recessed areas where the tires would be just the right size for a 2x12 insert.
This is just another reason why this forum is so great. Thank you all for the input and bringing me up to speed.

Thnaks again,

03-20-2007, 07:52 AM
I've read of people using all sorts of plastic items to park on. I suppose a course of lego leveling blocks would work. Others have used cheap nylon cutting boards. I read a year or two ago about a compnay that makes something called "landing pads" (something like that). They were plastic strips that you back onto.

My rig is sitting on solid cap stones (for concrete blocks). I'll have to re-think this for 2007/2008 winter storage. Better safe for a couple of bucks.

What I recall reading a couple years ago is that the tires can absorb moisture from the concrete and begin to rust the steel belts/cords inside. Sounds far-fetched but perhaps there is a bit of truth to it.


03-20-2007, 04:36 PM

I love ya but that rusting the steel belts inside the tires sounds a little far fetched...LOL

I agree 100% about the concrete, I have always stored on CCA plytwood strips. I store indoors so I do not care about drainage around the plywood.

03-20-2007, 07:24 PM
I use one of these to keep the batteries topped up on the bike. Charges and then monitors voltage levels and adjusts as such. Some are purely trickle chargers and boil your batteries.

03-21-2007, 10:00 AM
I store with the legs up, shades down, boards under the tires and the batteries removed. I also check batteries a couple of times through the winter and put a charger on them.../Doug

03-21-2007, 07:59 PM
Storing on concrete and rock will dry out the tire and prematurely cause the rubber to rot. Not make the steel rust. Also do not store batteries on concrete, it will draw the charge down quickly.

03-21-2007, 10:04 PM
Storing on concrete and rock will dry out the tire and prematurely cause the rubber to rot. Not make the steel rust. Also do not store batteries on concrete, it will draw the charge down quickly.

Don't need to worry about keeping batteries off of the floor anymore. http://www.thebatteryterminal.com/TechTalk_Batteries_on_Concrete.htm