Surge Protection Installation

rebootsemi

Well-known member
I'm going to install a 50 amp hardwired TRC surge protector in our Sundance 3000RK. The 50 amp plug is in the rear middle and the fuse panel is in the bottom of the cabinet just inside the side door. I know there is no wiring dia's for these, question is: does the 120V line run straight to the back of the fuse panel and can it be accessed through the panels in the pass through storage box?
 

JohnDar

Prolifically Gabby Member
I'm going to install a 50 amp hardwired TRC surge protector in our Sundance 3000RK. The 50 amp plug is in the rear middle and the fuse panel is in the bottom of the cabinet just inside the side door. I know there is no wiring dia's for these, question is: does the 120V line run straight to the back of the fuse panel and can it be accessed through the panels in the pass through storage box?

The 120V main breakers are wired directly to the plug attachment on the side of the rig. The 50A should be wired with 6/3 (with ground) wire. Depending on where you wish to mount the surge protector, get the necessary length of the same cable from Lowe's or Home Depot to connect it. It's possible that there is enough slack in the wiring already there, but I wouldn't guarantee it. As for the access in your particular rig, I can't help you with that. Sorry.
 

cookie

Administrator
Staff member
Are you sure you have a 50 amp service? HLRV"s website shows the Sundance to have a 30 amp service.
Yes, the wires to directly to the breaker panel. You should be able to access the panel by removing the bulkhead in the basement.

Peace
Dave
 

rebootsemi

Well-known member
Pulled out the panels of the rear wall in the basement and could not believe the absolute mess that Heartland calls plumbing and wiring. **** no wonder they do not put out a wiring schematic for one of these or any unit for that matter because they don't know how one is wired or plumbed, looks like they were done on Friday afternoon just before a holiday weekend. I will post some pic's when I get a chance. I assume that all mfg's are the same but quality control is not in their management dept.

JohnDar is correct the 6/3 with a bare grd comes up out of the underside on the door side of the unit and runs around and into the breaker panel. The way it is ran I might have enough cable to mount the TRC on the rear wall and have cable to reach the breaker panel. If not I will just go and get more cable. Probably will do some clean up with the way all of this wiring is run.
 
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JohnDar

Prolifically Gabby Member
When mounting your suppressor, select a spot that is not under any plumbing or water line fittings, and is accessible without crawling into the bowels of the trailer. Good time to check where the converter is mounted and make sure it's not in harm's way should a leak occur. Also makes it easier to get at the fuses, should you need to. I made access panels in my basement walls and mounted the two units behind one of them, attached to the framing for the bedroom steps. Initially, my converter was directly under the anti-siphon valve for the black tank flusher in a pile of dust and debris. That thing is a known problem child.
 

boatto5er

Founding VA Chap Ldr (Ret)
Are you sure you have a 50 amp service? HLRV"s website shows the Sundance to have a 30 amp service.
Yes, the wires to directly to the breaker panel. You should be able to access the panel by removing the bulkhead in the basement.

Peace
Dave

Dave,

50 amp was/is an option on the Sundance - many of them have it.
 

rebootsemi

Well-known member
I worked on cleaning up the wiring today some and it is already looking better. Back in the day I worked on airplanes and helicopters then on to trucks and hot rods where every wire and tube is labeled and bundled. You could just look at a wire and get the number, go to the print and know what is for. In one spot where the two air ducts come up to the bathroom and bedroom they actually ran the wires from the right side and around these two ducts and back to the right side, the pieces of wall and floor they cut out are just laying in the bottom. Enough of my *****ing.
I believe that I have figured out a way and place to mount the unit and be able to see the lights on the front by just opening the basement side door. JohnDar, I like your comment about where the converter is mounted. This one believe it or not is out of harms way and mounted high enough to not get wet if something starts leaking water.
 
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rebootsemi

Well-known member
Finished the install for the 50 amp Surge Protector in the basement after cleaning up all of the wiring and plumbing mess that was hidden behind those black panels. I could almost say that none of this mess is going to shake loose or leak water all over the place. Did find a small water leak at the connection at the rear of the water heater. Also found that when the boys at Heartland put this thing together they actually sawed into the main power line to the back of the breaker panel. Lucky as they did not make it through all of the insulation, just the outer PVC jacket. Also tuned up the water pump so now it makes much less noise, actually not the pump but the line to and from and mounting. I will post over in the plumbing section.
 

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newbie

Northern Virginia
You did a nice job bundling the wires together to clean up the basement.

On your surge suppressor, it looks like the lugs are exposed. Does it have a cover for that?

John
 

rebootsemi

Well-known member
Not sure what unit you have 30 or 50 amp, but on the 50 the lugs are protected by the insulator block, works great as long as you don't strip too much insulation off of the wires. I plan on making a cover of some kind. Some day I would like to go to the factory and slap a few folks around for the way these things are slammed together, it is actually a wonder that any of it actually works without burning down.
 

newbie

Northern Virginia
You definitely don't want to leave the lugs exposed.

Quite frankly, I am surprised a manufacturer would market a 240 volt device without a cover for the lugs. Even a couple wraps of electrical tape would be better than nothing.

John
 

rebootsemi

Well-known member
The lugs on the 50 amp unit are not exposed, but I understand that on the 30 amp they have some kind of a cover. On this one you would have to really put some effort into causing some kind of short.
 

rebootsemi

Well-known member
Like I stated earlier as long as you do not strip more than a 1/2" of insulation from the wire ends your good to go, also the lug screws are set down in the insulator block about a 1/4" so you chance of shorting is slim. I still plan on fab'ing a guard around the whole unit.
 

JohnDar

Prolifically Gabby Member
I don't think I'd be overly concerned with the lug arrangement unless you've got somebody running around your basement with something that could bridge them (kid with a paper clip?), or you like to run through clouds of sticky metal dust. They do make a more costly version, called SurgeGuard Plus, that requires the wires go inside the box (also has a remote indicator).

With the Progressive Industries version (mine), the wiring is inside the box. The display is a wired remote panel that is mounted inside the rig, so the unit itself does not need to be exposed. And wrestling with #6 wires inside the housing is not easy.
 

ParkIt

Well-known member
Need to keep track of this thread, just took delivery and already checked the wiring at which point I about fell over from SRSLY?!
It doesn't help our family business was building custom homes and we didn't start subbing until 7 years in and I've always been building/tinkering with motocross bikes to barely street legal cars. My husband is the computer guru so we are thinking of designing a system that uses a PCM for some of the wired sub-units. Won't know until we start in on it...pictures if we do.
 
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