2011 Landmark San Antonio - My Mods

jbeletti

Well-known member
Here's a thread that I'll use to list the modifications I have done to my 2011 Landmark San Antonio. Most of the mods were done by me, a couple I have had friends lend a hand and a couple others were done at the factory.

I share them all here for the same reason anyone else shares theirs - to show what can be done, what works for me, and to inspire others to take the plunge to make their RV theirs :)

Jim
 

jbeletti

Well-known member
Relocated 2 light switches out of control panel cabinet

For convenience, especially at night, I decided to relocate 2 light switches out of the control panel cabinet and onto a vertical stile of my pantry cabinet.

I relocated the Kitchen and Livingroom light switches. Related to switches in the control panel cabinet, in a future mod, I want to relocate the Aisle and Porch lights switches to the narrow section of wall to the right of the entrance door.

To do this relocation I had to:
1. Remove the 4 mounting screws from the old switch plate and pull the plate out to reveal the wiring
2. Note the wiring and remove wires from the back of the 2 switches to be relocated
3. Remove the slide room switch above the old switch plate to use as an aid in wire fishing
4. Drill in the vertical stile to the right of the pantry, a half inch hole for each new switch and lengthen those holes a bit
5. Fish 2 pairs of electrical wires from those 2 holes and out the hole where the old switch has been removed
6. Connectorize the new switch end wires with female spade terminals
7. Connectorize the old switch end of wires with male spade terminals
8. Connect the wires to the new switches
9. Connect the wires to the wiring that was connected to the old switches
10. Screw the old switch plate back onto the wall inside the control panel cabinet and remove the switch labels
11. Screw the new switches onto the vertical stile of the pantry cabinet
12. Add the switch paddles and add new labels

The attached pictures show:
1. The triple switch plate in the control cabinet, with the 2 relocated circuits no longer marked
2. The cabinet stile I mounted the 2 surface mount switches on
3. A closeup of the 2 switches
 

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jbeletti

Well-known member
Replaced 2 bedroom light switches with different style

The bedroom has 4 switches near the sink. Two are for the bedroom speakers and 2 below that are for the bedroom lights and vanity lights.

As the speaker and lighting switches are the same and near each other, it's common for us to hit the speaker switches in the dark on the way to bed instead of the light switches.

This modification was simply to replace the small flush double toggle switch with 2 surface mount switched with large paddles.

I had to enlarge the hole in the wall to accommodate 2 of these larger switches side-by-side and I had to replace a short jumper wire between the 2 switches with a longer one to accommodate the wider spacing.

PICTURES TO BE ADDED 11-April
 

jbeletti

Well-known member
Replaced license plate bracket and light with new style

The Landmark has a recess in the rear cap that can perfectly fit the height of a standard license plate. The license plate bracket currently used on Landmarks has an integrated license plate light. When this bracket is mounted to the top of the license plate recess, sufficient space does not remain at the bottom of the recess for the plate to fit into the recess causing the plate to not sit flat and to run on the radius where the recess comes out of the cap at the bottom.

I replaced the standard bracket/light with well nuts and 2 round license plate lights.

Parts I used:
Well Nuts: 10-24 - 2 each
Hardware: Stainless Steel, 10-24 x 3/4" - 2 each and flat/lock washers - 2 each
Wiring: 3 feet of 2 conductor automotive (stranded) wiring - I used red and black
Connectors: Butt splices (about 6)
Sealant: I used RTV white
Lights: I used Napa Wiring NW 787106 - 2 each

Steps I took:
1. Removed old license plate bracket/light, cut wiring at light and taped wiring to rear cap
2. Placed license plate in desired position and marked upper screw holes and plate sides
3. Drilled holes for and inserted well nuts
4. Measured for, marked and drilled holes for both new lights, one on each side of plate
5. Prepared new lights by affixing a ground wire to them, and adding length to each wire
6. Added length to original wiring, placed new light wiring into new holes, fished to old wiring hole and tied it all together
7. Sealed old wiring hole with sealant
8. Screwed license plate into place
 

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jbeletti

Well-known member
Added square storage tube under RV for window covers

ARTICLE IS A WORK IN PROGRESS - NEED TO ADD THE PHOTOS

While at the Tampa show this year, I finally ordered those RV sunscreens for 3 of my RV windows and a sunscreen for my awning. I ordered them from Prompt RV Sunscreen. They measured the San Antonio that was in the show so they could start working on my order. And they were prompt! Order showed up about a week later at my home :)

Anyway, when I set all 3 window sunscreens on top of each other and roll them up, it's quite a large bundle. And it's long, due to the width of the back window. So a standard sewer storage tube from Valterra was not an option for this use.

I then recalled that many of my RV pals use the square white plastic fence posts as storage tubes for various stuff. A trip to Lowes and I was in business. And a new project was born. In retrospect, I think I over-thought the design and could have done this in a less expensive, less involved way by not using Unistrut channel at the frame, rather, just butting the fence post up to the frame directly. Oh well - hindsight - it's great :)

As best as I can recall, here are the materials I used:
  1. *10' section of Unistrut channel - the low-profile type
  2. *10' section of 3/8" all-thread
  3. Cone Nut for Unistrut - 8 each
  4. 3/8" nuts, flat and lock washers - 8 to 12 each
  5. 8 foot section of square plastic fence post
  6. Top caps for fence post - 2 each
  7. PVC glue
  8. Hitch pin clip (177 x 3-3/4") - 2 each
* I only needed 1/3 of these 10 foot sections but buying the 10 foot sections was very economical. I made up enough to do 3 installations. I gave one set away and kept the third set for a future installation.

Generally, these are the steps I took on this installation:
  1. Cut Unistrut and all-thread to length
  2. Adjust through holes in Unistrut to ensure proper width/spacing for fence post and adjust hole spacing if/as needed
  3. Assemble cone nuts and all-thread into Unistrut
  4. Measure, mark and drill 3/8" holes in bottom of I-beam flange (both I-beams) in desired location and at proper bolt spacing
  5. Mount Unistrut assemblies loosely to frame and slide fence post into assemblies
  6. Adjust fence post, side to side and trim to length
  7. PVC glue top cap to end of fence post that you do not wish to enter
  8. Glue interior frame/bracket for other top cap into place
  9. Pop top cap onto frame/bracket, mark and drill 3/16" holes for mounting a hitch pin clip top and bottom
  10. Snug up all hardware
 
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