Air at top of water heater--

aatauses

Well-known member
Hi everyone,
I am having an issue with my water pressure regulator (watts 263a). I have emailed the mfg and cleaning is the first option which did not work (the pressure rises over time). The next option Rich (rvwaterfilters) suggested is perhaps I have lost the air bubble in my water heater (without the bubble, back pressure will be created). Anyone heard of the air bubble?? How do I check it and if it is gone how do I get it back?
thanks
al
 

JohnDar

Prolifically Gabby Member
Hi everyone,
I am having an issue with my water pressure regulator (watts 263a). I have emailed the mfg and cleaning is the first option which did not work (the pressure rises over time). The next option Rich (rvwaterfilters) suggested is perhaps I have lost the air bubble in my water heater (without the bubble, back pressure will be created). Anyone heard of the air bubble?? How do I check it and if it is gone how do I get it back?
thanks
al

The air bubble in the water heater is created when filling it. The pressure relief valve at the top of the water heater is supposed to be sitting in it. If the temp gets to high, the water expands and gets pushed out before the tank overpressurizes. It is possible to overfill the tank if you fill it quickly and have the pressure relief valve open at the same time, thus loosing the air pocket.
 

2010augusta

Well-known member
Simple way to get air in the water heater is to:

1 turn off water supply
2 open a hot water faucet higher than the heater
3 go out to the heater and open the T&P valve until water stop draining out
4 close T&P valve
5 close faucet
6 turn on water again
 

hoefler

Well-known member
There should not be any air bubble in your water heater, RV water heaters are not that much different than the ones in our homes. It the Temperature/Pressure relief valve is in an air pocket, it will not sense the temperature of the water. If it was over heating, this would be a steam pocket. The temperature probe on the valve does not sense vapor, only liquid. If you have an air/steam pocket, it will go way over the set temperature before it will open.

It is not uncommon for water pressure to creep on a very active water line. This occurs when you have numerous device on the water system. The opening and closing of valves will cause the pressure to fluctuate, none as water hammer, as well as a well pump or booster pump in the system. The regulators you will find most commonly used in RVs will not work very well in these situations. Systems with widely varying water pressures are the worst for this condition. As the pressure bumps the upper limit, you will see the pressure spike through these regulators. For best pressure control, use a diaphragm style regulator.
 

katkens

Founding Illinios Chapter Leader-retired
From Suburban FAQ :

Why does water drip from my water heater's pressure and temperature (P&T) relief valve?


You may experience water weeping or dripping from your water heater's pressure and temperature (P&T) relief valve when your water heater is operating. Water weeping or dripping does not mean that the P&T valve is defective. As water is heated, it expands. The water system in a recreational vehicle is a closed system and does not allow for the expansion of heated water. When the pressure of the water system exceeds the relieving point of the P&T valve, the valve will relieve the excess pressure.


One way to reduce the frequency of this occurrence is to maintain an air pocket at the top of the water heater tank. This air pocket will form in the tank by design - however, it will be reduced over time by the everyday use of your water heater. To replenish this air pocket:
  1. Turn off the water heater.
  2. Turn off the cold water supply line.
  3. Open a faucet in the RV.
  4. Pull out the handle of the pressure relief (P&T) valve and allow water to flow from the valve until it stops.
  5. Release the handle on the P&T valve - it should snap closed.
  6. Close the faucet and turn on the cold water supply. As the tank fills, the air pocket will develop. Repeat this procedure as often as needed to reduce the frequency of the weeping P&T valve. If the weeping persists after following this procedure, you may elect to have your dealer install an expansion or accumulator tank in the cold water line between the tank and check valve to relieve the pressure caused by thermal expansion.
I noticed an add-on electric element for my water heater. What will happen if I use it?


Any alterations to a Suburban water heater will void its warranty. This includes add-on electric aftermarket heating elements. There are a number of heating elements being offered. These elements are supplied with different types of thermostats which are mounted in various locations of the water heater. These heating elements can lack critical safety controls. Use of these devices can lead to an out of control heating of the water tank and a catastrophic wet side explosion. The use of these aftermarket heating element devices may result in damage to components or the water heater. When aftermarket heating elements are inserted into the anode rod/drain connection, tank life is shortened by accelerating inner tank corrosion. This will be a non-warrantable situation.
There is a bad odor coming from the hot water faucet. How can I correct this?


Odor from the hot water system is not a service problem and many water supplies contain sufficient amounts of sulphur to produce an odor. The odor is similar to rotten eggs and is often referred to as "sulphur water." Sulphur water is not harmful - only unpleasant to smell. Sulphur water can be caused by a chemical action or by bacteria. The key to eliminating this smell is heavy chlorination of the water system. Add about six (6) ounces of chlorine (common household liquid bleach) to each 10 gallons in the water tank. Then run the heavily chlorinated water throughout the system, opening each faucet one at a time until you smell the chlorine. Let the RV sit a few days and the chlorine should take care of the problem. Then you will need to take care of the chlorine by flushing the water system. If you don't have a water filtration system that removes chlorine, you may have a problem getting rid of the chlorine taste. You might consider adding such a system because it allows you to keep water chlorinated and this prevents several problems, including sulphur water. Chlorination also takes care of other types of bacteria and viruses.
How do I drain my water heater?



If the RV is to be stored during winter months, the water heater must be drained to prevent damage from freezing:
  1. Turn off electrical power to the water heater either at the switch from the electric element or a breaker.
  2. Shut off the gas supply to the water heater.
  3. Turn off the pressure pump on the water system.
  4. Open both hot and cold water faucets.
  5. Remove the anode rod from the tank.
  6. Follow the RV manufacturer's instructions for draining the entire water system.
Are there any tips for winterizing my water heater?


If your water heater plumbing system is equipped with a bypass kit, use it to close off the water heater. Drain the water heater completely and leave it closed off (out of the system) in the bypass position, particularly if you are introducing antifreeze into the plumbing system. Antifreeze can be very corrosive to the anode rod. The result will be accelerated deterioration of the rod and heavy sediment in the tank. If the plumbing system is not equipped with a bypass kit and you intend to winterize by adding antifreeze into the system, remove the anode rod (storing it for the winter) and replace it with a 3/4" drain plug.
How do I get an owners manual for my water heater?


You can contact Suburban via written correspondence, phone, e-mail with your model and serial number of the appliance. The Manual can be e-mailed as a PDF file or maled out in printed form.
What if I operate the water heater without water in the tank?


Operation without water in the tank on the 12 VDC gas portion of the water heater can cause the copolymer insulation jacket to melt and can cause the ECO/Thermostat to trip.
Opertion without water in the tank on the 120 VAC electric portion of the water heater will damage the element.
Can I replace a 10 gallon model with a 12 or 16 gallon model?


Yes, if you have the additional space at the back of your current 10 gallon unit to accomodate the dpth of the 12 or 16 gallon unit. A 12 gallon unit requires 1 3/4" additional space and a 16 gallon unit will require 6 1/2" additional space.
 

rebootsemi

Well-known member
Hi everyone,
I am having an issue with my water pressure regulator (watts 263a). I have emailed the mfg and cleaning is the first option which did not work (the pressure rises over time). The next option Rich (rvwaterfilters) suggested is perhaps I have lost the air bubble in my water heater (without the bubble, back pressure will be created). Anyone heard of the air bubble?? How do I check it and if it is gone how do I get it back?
thanks
al

Kind of funny how this turned into a water heater issue, sounds to me the problem is with the water pressure regulator creeping, a lot of these cheap reg's will creep the water pressure up if they are dead headed for any length of time.
1. What is the city water pressure reading?
2. If when dead headed the water pressure comes up to or close to the same as the city pressure problem solved. Trash you reg. and get one of these

http://www.campingworld.com/shopping/item/adjustable-water-regulator-lead-free/49511

Adjustable and they do not creep.
 
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