Can someone help me find out why fridge would not switch to LP

GETnBYE

Well-known member

• May 4, 2011

• #1

We recently needed to live in the camper for a few days after storms here. We could not get the fridge to switch to LP when we turned off the generator.

I am sure there is something simple we were not doing, but it was dark and it was an awful and busy time. Now we are back in the house, but I want to know for next time,(hopefully, for a different reason)

Is this something that is wrong with the fridge or did we just not know what we were doing???

Thanks for any advice.

 

Invizatu

Senior Road Warriors

• May 4, 2011

• #2

First I assume the switch was in auto mode?
Second I assume the propane tank was full and valve open?
Was the light blinking?
Sometimes when you try to us the lp for the first time in a long time there is air in the line and it has to bleed out. This would usually be the case if the light is blinking. You may have to swith it on and off a few times to bleed out the air and then it should work.
Try the users guide for more detailed info about the operation and or troubleshooting.
Let us know what you find.

 

GETnBYE

Well-known member

• May 4, 2011

• #3

Invizatu, Thanks for the reply.
switch was in auto and then tried it several times not on auto and the lp switch on and no blinking, nothing. Maybe we didn't leave it on long enough, but we tried it several times. We had gas because we used it to cook and hot water heater. I will try the manual, probably should have already, but it is so easy to get help here, I always come to the forum first.
Thanks

 

H

hoefler

Well-known member

• May 4, 2011

• #4

Try lighting the stove or water heater, this will help purge any air out of the system. Another thing to check, if the valve on the propane cylinder was open to quickly, you could have the excessive flow device tripped. Shut off the bottle, disconnect the line, reconnect the line and SLOOOOWLY open the valve. The go try and light the stove to purge out the air, then try the fridge again. You may have to cycle it a couple times to get the air out of that line too.

 

boatto5er

Founding VA Chap Ldr (Ret)

• May 4, 2011

• #5

Fridge runs on 120V from the generator. When you switch to propane it runs off 12V. Check all the 12V fuses and circuit breakers.

 

Rickhansen

Well-known member

• May 4, 2011

• #6

GETnBYE said:

... We could not get the fridge to switch to LP when we turned off the generator...

Click to expand...

Probably pointing out the obvious, but if you were plugged into shore power and it was on, the fridge would still default to A/C power rather than propane.

 

GETnBYE

Well-known member

• May 4, 2011

• #7

Thanks, will try all the options given.
Rick: We tried it before we had a generator and had no power at all, was trying to save our food. My fridge has an auto button and one that I can choose LP. We will try the purging the line and the fuses.
Thank you all for your help.
I hope I never need LP again, but just want to know we do if needed.

 

ultrafarmer

Well-known member

• May 4, 2011

• #8

A hot fridge can take 10 to 20 hours to cool off.

 

JohnDar

Prolifically Gabby Member

• May 4, 2011

• #9

On AUTO, if the AC goes out, it should switch to propane with no problem. Had that experience last summer when a storm knocked out power in the area for a couple of hours late one night. Fridge switched over before I could even worry about it. Went back to AC on it's own when the power came back on.

You could verify yours is functioning as it should by setting it to AUTO while on shore power and shutting off the main breakers in your AC panel box. It should switch immediately, provided your battery is up to snuff.

On page 4 of the owners manual, the AUTO mode is explained. Is the CHECK light on?

Another little tidbit on refridgerators and the warranty is located on page 20, line #5. You're required to have preventative maintenance done on it (and documented) annually. I get it done at the end of the summer season since it coincides with the anniversary of our purchase.

 

W

Wharton

Well-known member

• May 5, 2011

• #10

Are you sure it wasn't working? On propane refrigs take a long time to cool down and they are virtually silent. You need to go outside and listen for the flame to go on. Usually there is a light on the refrig to indicate whether it is on elec or propane. Did yours say it was on propane>

 

T

traveler44

Well-known member

• May 5, 2011

• #11

Maybe your battery is low. I let our battery run low after having the 30A unplugged for awhile. After restoring the power and having the fridge on auto. it showed an E 1 code until I shut it off and turned it back on with the on-off button. Tom M.

 

GETnBYE

Well-known member

• May 5, 2011

• #12

It was not working, mine has a light that comes on that lets you know if it is using ac or lp, we tried the battery, it would do everything else, even raise and lower landing gear.

 

W

Willym

Well-known member

• May 5, 2011

• #13

traveler44 said:

Maybe your battery is low. I let our battery run low after having the 30A unplugged for awhile. After restoring the power and having the fridge on auto. it showed an E 1 code until I shut it off and turned it back on with the on-off button. Tom M.

Click to expand...

You need a good 12 volt supply to run the fridge period. Go below a certain voltage and the fridge will not run in AC or LP modes.

For my model, if the fridge is set to run on LP, or goes to LP when the AC supply is lost or shut off, and the gas does not light, then the letters "LP" will flash on the display. If the burner ignites properly, then a small LED will light up next to the letters LP on the display.

 

RB2012

Active Member

• Nov 5, 2012

• #14

Had same problem drove me crazy found out the propane line kinked when the slide was put in and out and restricted propane flow good luck RB 2012

 

M

mikeandconnie

Well-known member

• Nov 5, 2012

• #15

On my first attempt to use the LP on my 2009 Landmark Dometic 1350, it did not switch in auto or work on LP. The mother board was bad. After changing this it switched every time I unpluged the fridge.

 

wdk450

Well-known member

• Nov 6, 2012

• #16

RB2012 said:

Had same problem drove me crazy found out the propane line kinked when the slide was put in and out and restricted propane flow good luck RB 2012

Click to expand...

If the 12 volt DC powered refrigerator logic and gas ignition board is good, and getting good 12 volts DC power, the status lights should all work (including the blinking "Gas" status light if the gas flame failed to ignite).

 

M

mikeandconnie

Well-known member

• Nov 6, 2012

• #17

My light did blink even with the board bad.

 

wdk450

Well-known member

• Nov 6, 2012

• #18

mikeandconnie said:

My light did blink even with the board bad.

Click to expand...

The board has many functions - determining if AC connected, if in auto or manual mode, lighting flame, sensing if flame is lit, repeat trying to light flame 4 times, turn electric heating element on-off, regulating internal temperature by turning cooling unit heat source (flame or electric element) on-off, lighting status lights to reflect current operating status. Any one of the subcircuits can fail with the rest of the board operating normally.