Electrical System Upgrade Plan

Hi all, :)

This subject actually involves 120 Volt AC, 12 Volt DC, and Inverters/Converters all in one subject but I posted it here for lack of a better idea. Basically I'm looking for input from anyone who has performed all or some of my proposed modifications.

I've attached a scan of a diagram I created to plan my electrical system upgrade. In a nut shell, my plan is to add a 30A shore power receptacle in the left side basement area and connect it, and the factory 50A service, to a manual 60A AC selector switch followed by a 50A surge suppressor/voltage monitor. Next, one hot leg is directed to one side of the AC panel I refer to as the 50A side, and the other hot leg is routed through a 30A circuit breaker and then through a Freedom 458 2000 watt inverter/charger and back to what I refer to as the 30A side of the AC panel (down rated from 50A due to the pass through capacity limitation of the inverter).

The inverter will be powered by four T105 batteries producing about 450 Amp hours. The batteries will be installed in the front compartment in a sealed and vented box. I'm hoping to install the inverter in the factory battery compartment if there is room. Also, I plan to mount the inverter control panel, surge suppressor monitoring panel, and AC selector switch in the area where the other monitoring panels are located.

I haven't received the coach yet (one more week) so I don't know the exact configuration of the AC panel. I assume it has two independent buses. I plan to leave the factory converter installed but unplugged for emergency use if my inverter fails. Any comments or suggestions would be appreciated.

Darrin

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jbeletti

Well-known member
I've never done this before but your drawing was clear as to your intentions. Others who have done this will surely weigh in on any nuance details they see in your design.

One thing that does come to my mind is that you since you plan to redistribute the load in the AC breaker panel to separate out onto each of the 2 legs there, your high current devices from the rest, you may need to install a separate AC breaker panel for this as I doubt there's room in the panel to distribute like you want.

I recently saw the most impressive inverter install to date. This Heartland owner black felted some MDF and added it to the back of the gen area. To that, he added his fuses, distribution blocks, AC disconnects, inverter and other small stuff. On the floor of the gen area, in custom made plexiglass boxes, he had several HUGE AGM batteries. In the switch control panel area inside the RV, he mounted the inverter controller and solar charge control panel.

His operating parameters were a bit different than yours but most of the principals are similar. By the way, he can pull has main air conditioner for several hours on inverter power. BIG system :)

Best of luck.

Jim
 

hoefler

Well-known member
Personally, I would not install the inverter between shore/gen power and the breaker panel. I would replace one of the breakers in the panel with a 30 amp and run it to your inverter, then to a sub panel and transfer the loads that you want available on the inverter to the sub panel.
 
Personally, I would not install the inverter between shore/gen power and the breaker panel. I would replace one of the breakers in the panel with a 30 amp and run it to your inverter, then to a sub panel and transfer the loads that you want available on the inverter to the sub panel.

That is an excellent idea as long as there is room to add a sub panel next to the main panel. It would accomplish my objective without adding a new 30A breaker (and enclosure) near the inverter.

Thanks!
 

watchthebox

Well-known member
I agree with hoefler. I wired mine that way (//heartlandowners.org/showthread.php/22371-Cyclone-3010-Inverter-Installation) and it works well. The subpanel doesn't necessarily have to be installed right next to the original main panel. I installed my subpanel about 10 feet from main panel.

One question I had when viewing your nicely illustrated plan: why are you adding another shore power outlet (the 30A shore power outlet)?
 

porthole

Retired
My thoughts, 3K inverter, a good one, auto transfer switch, charge capable, pure sine wave, pass through.
Wire it downstream (past) the shore power/Genny auto transfer switch (trailer comes with it from the factory if you order a Genny).

No need for a separate panel for the inverter unless you need the ability to "not" turn on the AC or other heavy loads when operating on the inverter.

The problem I do see is the the 30-50 amp shore powers. Manual transfer switch doesn't cut it for that. Too easy to plug in one side and then have hot plugs on the other shore power inlet. Just not safe.

Marinco make s a special adapter for this called a "smart adapter". It is equipped with relays that does not allow current to flow until both circuits are connected.
 
Thanks for all of the good feedback.

The reason for adding the 30A shore power receptacle at the front is for two reasons. First, it gives me a convenient place to plug in a lighter duty cable for connecting to my 20A plug on my house next to the RV pad. Second, I plan on storing my 2700 watt inverter generator in the front compartment and I can basically just set it on the ground and plug in with a short lighter duty cable (same one I'll use for home).

The manual transfer switch is a 60A rated AC selector switch that can only power one input at a time so it is impossible to cross connect both shore power inputs. This will prevent me or anyone else from back feeding from the 50A connection into my generator or the other way around.

If I was starting from scratch I would probably buy a 2500 or 3000 watt pure sine unit but I happen to have gotten a great deal on a used Freedom 458 2000 watt unit ($250). I had to have it serviced to replace the AC circuit board so I put another $350 in to it. I also already have a new 30A plug and receptacle that I was going to use on my current TT.

The main objective of my installation is to be able to power all AC circuits with the generator, or maybe a larger one in the future, and still being able to use most of the 50A rated factory service when available. I have to provide a 30A protection for the inverter/charger so thats why the plan shows a 30A breaker next to the inverter. Using a 30A breaker on one of the main panel segments to power the inverter would accomplish the same thing as long as I add another sub panel like hoefler suggested. It really boils down to what can be done on the existing panel vs installing a new sub panel or stand alone 30A breaker. I want to have the option of running everything except the AC, water heater, and refer with the inverter.

One thing is for sure, I want to make it Murphy proof so my family members can use it without a lot of training, and for the inevitable time when we sell and buy a new rig.
 
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Here's an update.

Our new rig showed up today and the dealer called to see if we wanted a quick look before closing time. I discovered that the way the AC panel is configured it will be a piece of cake to use one side for air conditioners, water heater, ceiling fan, and converter while leaving the other side set up with everything else to be powered by the inverter (when needed). All I have to do is have one leg of the shore power pass through the inverter and back to the AC panel.

I also, discovered that the battery compartment is big enough for the inverter/charger (batteries will go up front). I can't wait to start tearing up my new RV. :D
 

hoefler

Well-known member
You really don't want to put the inverter in the same compartment as the batteries. The batteries will off gas while being charged and discharged by the inverter. You will have the inverter in a corrosive and explosive environment. I would strongly encourage you to find another compartment!
 
hoefler,

Thanks for taking the time to reply.

I guess I wasn't very clear. The inverter will be installed in the factory battery location with no battery. The four pack of T105 batteries will be in a sealed, vented box in the very front compartment, away from the inverter compartment and any other source of ignition.

Regards
 
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