For those that have Kodiak Disk Brakes...

TXBobcat

Fulltime
We had the Kodiak Disk Brakes installed by Mor/Ryde when we had the independent suspension installed.

I called Kodiak Trailer Components in Fort Worth TX and talked with Kevin. I told him we were planning on going to Alaska if things work out. During our discussion Kevin asked how many miles I had on the brakes. I told him I had over 10,000 miles. He suggested that I check the brake pads on the trailer. He said that most people have the brake controller set where the trailer brakes will help stop the tow vehicle. This causes he pads to ware out much sooner than normal.

We came to Buckhorn Lake RV Resort in Kerrville TX to pick up our mail. While we were staying here for a week I decided to check the brake pads on the trailer. The Lord was with me when I checked the pads. I checked the Rear brake pads on the driver side. The pads were completely eat up. If I had checked any of the other three sets of pads I may not have worried about checking all four.

I went to NAPA and got new pads. Cameron Rapp at Kodiak helped me get the proper new pads. When I went to install the pads the piston would not compress back. I put enough pressure on it that I was concerned that I would damage the caliper. I called Cameron and sent him a number of photos of the pads and the caliper. Cameron ended up sending me a new caliper and set of ceramic brake pads.

When I installed the caliper and pads I tried to bleed the brake line. No fluid would come out. I called Kevin and he suggested I check all the hydraulic lines to make sure one did not get bent. When I looked at the hydraulic line from the bad brakes I found that the line was crimped twice along the frame.

I went to NAPA and got some brake lines and made up a new line to the bad brake. Bleed the brake lines and WALA.... I now have good brakes.

I started this thread to give you information on what could happen, so check your brakes even if you don't think you have worn them down enough to cause a problem.

Two views of the worn brake pads:
IMG_0234M.jpg IMG_0235M.jpg

State of the other
three brake pads Crimped Brake Line
IMG_0236M.jpg IMG_0250M.jpg


Hope this helps anyone that might have a similar problem.

BC

BTW this is the first time I have ever worked on disk brakes.
 

jmgratz

Original Owners Club Member
Hey Bob, looks to me like there is plenty of pad left but the pad appears to be cracked. I see the bent line. You might post the telephone number of who gave you the tech help for the rest of use.
 

Ray LeTourneau

Senior Member - Past Moderator
Like Jim said, plenty of pad there but it looks overheated. The crimp probably prevented the caliper form collapsing in turn causing the overheated pad. Was there any evidence of what may have caused the line to get crimped? Location?? Did you route the new line along the same area?
 

TXBobcat

Fulltime
Hey Bob, looks to me like there is plenty of pad left but the pad appears to be cracked. I see the bent line. You might post the telephone number of who gave you the tech help for the rest of use.

Jim the first two photos is the bad pads and the material on the pad is crumbling off. They are almost down to the metal.
The third photo is of the other three brakes and they are good.
The forth photo is the hydraulic line that was crimpted by the frame.

I posted their website link. Their address and phone numbers are on that page http://www.kodiaktrailer.com/index.php?option=com_contact&Itemid=38

I used the phone number 817-284-2356. Their web page gives a phone number of 817-284-5141. A receptionist will answer and you can ask for Kevin or Cameron.

BC
 

jmgratz

Original Owners Club Member
Thanks Bob. Glad you got it taken care of. Lke they say 'if it ain't chicken it is feathers' Safe travels.
 

TXBobcat

Fulltime
Like Jim said, plenty of pad there but it looks overheated. The crimp probably prevented the caliper form collapsing in turn causing the overheated pad. Was there any evidence of what may have caused the line to get crimped? Location?? Did you route the new line along the same area?

Ray
I am sure that the pad was over heated. I feel lucky the rotor did not get damaged. Actually the Caliper was still working. Once I removed the crimped line the piston retracted easily.
The hydraulic line was secured along the frame and part of the supports of the I/S Mor/Ryde installed. It was in a very narrow space between the frame metal and another support. I am not sure how it got damaged. But if you figure this. The line was crimped when the brakes were being applied. This caused the brake pad to be locked in the extended position. I am very happy that this did not happen further up toward the front. The hydraulic line runs from the actuator up front to the drivers front tire across to the passenger front tire to the passenger rear tire and finally to the drivers rear tire. I could have had all the brakes lock up and not get them relieved.

I will try to let Mor/Ryde know about the problem and hope they are a bit more concerned about their routing of the hydraulic lines. Now they did secure the lines up high out of the way but this one area was between two pieces of metal that for some reason moved enough to compress this steel line.

Yes I did reroute the line that was crimped. I checked the rest of the lines and they seem to be ok.

I hope this information helps anyone else that has the Kodiak Disk Brakes.

BTW this is not a complaint. I have been treated well by both Mor/Ryde and Kodiak. Could not have asked for better service. This is something that just happened.

BC
 
Top