Water heater bypass valve not working

The electric and gas heaters for hot water on my 2011 3250BC are not working. I found that as mouse had eaten through the gas ignitor wire and I repaired that. Then I checked the heating element and found it to be bad (no contunity through the element). Picked up a new element and decided to check that the tank was filling with both valves in the normal position. The hot water tank did not fill when hooked to city water. The plastic handle was loose on the bypass valve and the handle is now stripped where it mates to the brass valve. I tried to turn the brass valve with pliers and it is frozen. Is this type of valve available at hardware stores or is there another option for repair?
 

hoefler

Well-known member
Your best bet is to by a new bypass kit, and change the whole thing and start out new. The kit will have every thing you need and you won't have to try and retro fit it.
 

hcriddle

Well-known member
Your old bypass has plastic elbows connecting the water lines to the bypass valve. If I were you I would replace the plastic with brass elbows while you are in there. I had two of the three elbows leaking on Sunday and replaced them all with brass.
 
Thanks for the info, I will replace the plastic elbows with brass. I will contact the local RV service department to see how long it will take to get a replacement valve.
 
Thanks, I need the discount. My service department said the replacement bypass valve would cost $44 plus tax and that the brass valve has been discontinued and replaced with plastic. Seems quite high for a plastic valve. I will shop around and try to find another fix althought that may not look "factory"
 
I replaced the bypass valve with a factory part and everything worked fine all summer. When I winterized this past week I did not get antifreeze flow on the hot water side at any location in the camper. I believe the hoses to the bypass valve are correct as they are a fixed length, very stiff, and seem to only fit one way. I drained the hot water tank and antifreeze is not flowing into the tank. Could the valve been in the wrong position before the handle was installed? Any suggestions?
 

GOTTOYS

Well-known member
I replaced the bypass valve with a factory part and everything worked fine all summer. When I winterized this past week I did not get antifreeze flow on the hot water side at any location in the camper. I believe the hoses to the bypass valve are correct as they are a fixed length, very stiff, and seem to only fit one way. I drained the hot water tank and antifreeze is not flowing into the tank. Could the valve been in the wrong position before the handle was installed? Any suggestions?
Not supposed to be any anti-freeze going into the water heater. That's why you have a bypass installed. You have to close 2 valves and open 1 when you winterize. It makes the anti-freeze flow around the water heater and back into the lines....Don
 

traveler44

Well-known member
Is that close two valves and open one more, something that is common to all of the Big Countries? When I winterize our old Bighorn I just switch one valve that says- water heater bypass- and the other one that says summer:winter on it turns the pump on to suck the antifreeze out of the jug and pump it through the system.
 

Ray LeTourneau

Senior Member - Past Moderator
Is that close two valves and open one more, something that is common to all of the Big Countries? When I winterize our old Bighorn I just switch one valve that says- water heater bypass- and the other one that says summer:winter on it turns the pump on to suck the antifreeze out of the jug and pump it through the system.
There are 2 versions of HWH bypass on Heartland Trailers. Mine, the older version, has 3 valves. One is opened to bypass and the other 2 are on the inlet and outlet. These are closed during bypass. I really don't know how the single valve system works. I would be interested to understand how it works though.:confused:
 

TedS

Well-known member
The single valve works because of the check valve in the heater outlet that prevents flow back into the heater when the single valve directs flow to bypass to the heater oulet side of the plumbing, the hot water side.
 
My 2011 3250 has 2 valves for winterizing. One valve directs the pump to pull from the hose attached to the antifreeze container and not the fresh water tank. The other valve bypasses the water heater. In the bypass position, I am not getting antifreeze in the HWH, which is good, but I also do not get antifreeze to any of the hot water facuets in the camper. The valve is a new factory part. I was thinking that the rotating (internal) part of the valve may have in the wrong position when I re-attached the handle. Or, I may just have a bad valve. I should be getting antifreeze in the hot water lines when winterizing. Correct???
 

traveler44

Well-known member
I remember when we were looking for a fifth wheel that single H.W.H. valve was one of the biggest reasons I went with the Bighorn. It might sound stupid but I was afraid that I would get confused by all of the valves that had to be switched in a SOB for winterizing. I don't know why they don't make all of the new ones like this. So much simpler. YES! you should be able to open a faucet in the kitchen-bathroom or shower and get antifreeze to come out of the hot or cold faucets as long as it is sucking it out of the jug. The pump should stop running soon after all of the faucets are closed just like it does when pumping from your fresh water tank. Sounds like you might have a bad valve somewhere. Maybe a check valve that isn't opening? If you get it going don't forget to do the washing machine faucets-the outside shower and blow out the black tank flush with air. These are the ones I tend to forget. Good luck hope you find the problem.
 

Ray LeTourneau

Senior Member - Past Moderator
My 2011 3250 has 2 valves for winterizing. One valve directs the pump to pull from the hose attached to the antifreeze container and not the fresh water tank. The other valve bypasses the water heater. In the bypass position, I am not getting antifreeze in the HWH, which is good, but I also do not get antifreeze to any of the hot water facuets in the camper. The valve is a new factory part. I was thinking that the rotating (internal) part of the valve may have in the wrong position when I re-attached the handle. Or, I may just have a bad valve. I should be getting antifreeze in the hot water lines when winterizing. Correct???
I had seen a thread a while back regarding a valve with a stripped handle. The plastic handle fits over a metal splined shaft. The plastic in the handle had worn away and the owner was having trouble with the valve working.
I've not looked at the new style bypass valve so I really don't want to give you bad info. Have you removed the panel in the basement to access the backside of the UDC? You may be able to determine what the problem is.
 
Thanks for all of the responses on my water heater problem. Someone (I won't mention his name) crossed a couple of the hoses on the new bypass valve when installing. The thread about the one way valve on the hot water tank helped me realize what was wrong. Thanks again.
 

sgreene63

Member
I have an issue where my hot water tank won’t bypass when winterizing. This came up last year and I ended up filling the hot water tank with antifreeze to push antifreeze through the hot water lines and then draining and flushing the tank with water as I was in a hurry . I bought a new bypass valve over the this past summer and installed it couple weeks ago thinking that was my problem from prior year. When I attempted to winterize Sunday it did the same thing with new bypass valve installed. I ordered a replacement thinking maybe I bought a defective one first go around. I’ve swapped the valve with second new valve and still can’t get tank to bypass. If this valve isn’t the problem, am I reading correctly it could be the check valve in hot water tank? BTW, I have replaced Anderson valve with brass one. 2019 Big Country. Thanks.
 

Dahillbilly

Well-known member
I have an issue where my hot water tank won’t bypass when winterizing. This came up last year and I ended up filling the hot water tank with antifreeze to push antifreeze through the hot water lines and then draining and flushing the tank with water as I was in a hurry . I bought a new bypass valve over the this past summer and installed it couple weeks ago thinking that was my problem from prior year. When I attempted to winterize Sunday it did the same thing with new bypass valve installed. I ordered a replacement thinking maybe I bought a defective one first go around. I’ve swapped the valve with second new valve and still can’t get tank to bypass. If this valve isn’t the problem, am I reading correctly it could be the check valve in hot water tank? BTW, I have replaced Anderson valve with brass one. 2019 Big Country. Thanks.
you have to close the two valves that are connected to the tank & OPEN the 1 valve that's in the line between the other two lines that are connected to the tank.
 
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