RM1350 Refig Not Cooling

57chevyconvt

Well-known member
Turned on our RM1350 refig yesterday in prep for a trip tomorrow. Checked the unit this morning and no cooling in the lower compartment. Some cooling in the freezer compartment. Was getting a E0 fault code (communication fault). Check the 12 volt wiring connections on the Relay and Power Module. The Relay or the Power Module was cycling off and on, that has finally stopped cycling, I think. Switched over to LP to see if the lower unit would cool, the LP burner comes on okay but still no cooling in the lower compartment. BTW, when the fault code came on there was no 12 volt power to the lower compartment light. All the electrical functions seem to be working at the moment, but no cooling??? This BH tlr. is a model 3410, the refig. is not in any slide, therefore the refig. vents out the top of the tlr. The only fuse that I haven't checked is the 3 amp. on the Power Module board. Have placed an external fan to help move some air across the condensing coils since today's ambient was 98 deg.

I have order a new 12 volt relay in hopes this is the problem. I would appreciate any and all help from your experiences. I had rather not start changing parts to correct the problem. Forgot to renew my extended service on this unit.
 

wdk450

Well-known member
Jim:
I think you have a bad circuit board. Dinosaur Electronics builds replacement circuit boards touted to be better than the original. They have a solid base of technical help, too. Here is a link to their Dometic page. Get the phone # on the main webpage and give them a call in the morning.

http://www.dinosaurelectronics.com/Dom_boards.htm

Good luck!!!
 

cookie

Administrator
Staff member
Check your owners manual. I think that refer may have a three year warranty on some parts.

Peace
Dave
 

57chevyconvt

Well-known member
Kenny,
I have read some of your post on this subject several weeks ago and thought, oh no, I have one of those things. I was hoping that I had one of the good ones, but guess not. Unfortunately I didn't re-up the warranty offer last month for another 3 years, got busy and forgot. I usually don't buy factory warranty extended service because I normally do my own repairs, but this one may have caught me with my pants down.
I took Bill Knight's recommendation and sent an email to Dinosaur Electronics to see if they can help with a new control board.
 

KENNY COCHRAN

MCNEESE STATE COWBOYS #1
There are several "fixes" which may work for you. Add the larger fans (2) or more, run them 24 hours a day, block off the lower part of the top outside vent, put insulation on the top of your fridge from the outside vent area, move to canada for the summer, change the control board if that is bad, .................... Good luck.
 

slmayor

Founding California Northern Chapter Leader
We don't see many of the RM1350 at work, so you guys must have just got "lucky". :)
The refrigerators MUST have 12 volt power from somewhere to function. If you have a low battery, one that has a bad cell or whatever, and it's below about 10 volts, the control board will shut off.
I will second the suggestion of the Dinosaur board if it needs to be replaced. 3 year warranty instead of 1 and they just don't fail often. Dometic has built a new plant in the US, so maybe we'll see a difference in parts in the future.
 

57chevyconvt

Well-known member
Talked to the service rep at Dinosaur Electronics, they don't make a control board for the RM1350 at this time. The technician was very informative and gave me a list of things to check to confirm that the problem is the control board and not a 12 volt problem. Will keep you folks informed as to the outcome of the test. Thanks again for all the help.

Jim
 

57chevyconvt

Well-known member
After a month of grandkids, finally got around to performing the electrical checks on the refig that was proposed by the tech at Dinosaur Electronics. The problem was a corroded spade connector on the 12 V DC supply to the relay. Cleaned the connection and the refig has been working great since. BTW, the relay is a 12 V Bosch relay that is the same relay that is used as an ignition relay on a Onan generator. The moral to this story is do some voltage checks before throwing in the towel.
 

JohnDar

Prolifically Gabby Member
Good that the fix only cost a little bit of elbow grease. Would a little bit of electrical grease applied to the connectors prevent that, if it's in an exposed area?
 

57chevyconvt

Well-known member
John,
I did apply some dielectric grease on the all the spade terminals that I could easily remove for cleaning. In my conversation with the tech at Dinasour Electronics, he frowned on the use of dielectric grease because he said that it attracts moisture and dirt. My experience in chemical plant maintenance in our humid environment, dielectric gease was a must to prevent oxidation of the copper or brass terminals, therefore I applied the dielectric grease.

Jim
 
Well I'm back! I have added 2 fans facing up at about half way up on the back of the fridge. I put a metal shield from the top of the fridge to the top of the of the top vent. I then added a fan blowing out of the top vent. All fans are tempature controled. The fridge has been staying around 36 during the day and goes to 46 at night. I'm thinking the sun causes the fans to keep running during the day. So I'm going to wire the vent fan to run 24/7. We will see how that works.
 
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