Water Pump too much pressure

DougS

Doug S
The pressure relief valve on my water heater began leaking badly. Today was the day to replace the valve. The valve was replaced in about 5 minutes, but it still leaked when water pump was turned on. The pump was shut off, then switched on and it stayed off until I opened a faucet, it came on but would not shut off after faucet was closed, and water heater relief valve began leaking. I then did what no one should do, I disabled the pressure relief valve for a only a couple of minutes, when it was cold, same problem. Very important, I then made the pressure relief valve active again and removed the water pump for inspection. I connected a continuity tester through the pressure switch and pushed the pressure switch by hand, no change. I then turned the set screw all the way counter clockwise, and it seemed to work. Re-assembled the pump, all is good. I never thought a water pump would have enough pressure to open a pressure relief valve, boy was I wrong. A call to SHURflo, I found there is a two year warranty, so I am putting in for a replacement. With the set screw all the way counter clockwise, I can't get an even flow of water from pump, but it works for now.
 

porthole

Retired
Hey Doug - did you put your inverter in? Is the 2K enough? I started adding the necessary wiring and batteries for an inverter but still undecided as to the size needed.
 

DougS

Doug S
Duane,The 2,000 watt inverter seems to work for us (pure or true wave is the key). When the inverter is on, the whole RV is energized, we just have to make sure high energy items are off (AC, converter, and heating elements on refrig and water heater). We can watch TV for several hours and still have energy for the Keurig coffee pot and hair dryer in the morning. The wire was kept to under 3 feet and I used the highest gauge wire I could find locally, 0 gauge. I will continue to use the two 12 volt batteries the RV came with until it is time to replace them.
 
I have a 2012 3585RL fifth wheel with a leaky hot water line and a weeping pressure relief valve. I have check valve and it functions fine, I have replaced the plastic "T" at the leaky connection with a brass "T" and used factory type crimped clips and the leak still persists when the hot water tank is on. It seems there is too much pressure build up when hot water heater is on. No leak when hot water tank is not hot? Any ideas? Is there an adjustment on the heater I don't see? Thanks for any help
 

cookie

Administrator
Staff member
Hello Budheishman and welcome to the forum. Lots of good information here.
The first question I would like to ask is do you use a good water pressure regulator?
You may not have any headspace for expansion when hot.
Do this when your water heater has cooled.
Disconnect your water supply, then open a faucet inside, then open the pressure relief valve. Keep it open till the water stops running out.
This will give you an air pocket in the water heater to allow for some expansion.
When you close the pressure relief valve, let it snap shut.
It's worth a try.
There is no temperature adjustment.

Peace
Dave
 
Hey, Thank you Dave!

I will try what you suggested and let you know.

I did purchase a high quality brass H2O pressure valve with a dial gauge and set it at 40PSI, any less and the shower pressure sucked.

regards,
bud
 

mobilcastle

Well-known member
Hey, Thank you Dave!

I will try what you suggested and let you know.

I did purchase a high quality brass H2O pressure valve with a dial gauge and set it at 40PSI, any less and the shower pressure sucked.

regards,
bud

Remove all of your water restrictors. My pump kept cycling with the water on and after removing all water savers it works like a champ-no more cycling-great shower.
 
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