how to adjust brakes and grease bearings.

khd995

Active Member
I didn't get any info on adjusting brakes and greasing the bearing on my 07' bighorn (not the only literature I didn't get) (my fault for not making sure I got all the manuals etc.) I would appreaciate finding out how I can go about getting this info. Looked on the lippert website but couldn't find anything on brake adjustments. I think I know how to lube the bearings, but would still like the literature and would like to know how often I'm supposed to be doing it.
 

khd995

Active Member
I don't really know. I assumed (big mistake) that since the Bighorn Literature (page 6) states that Bighorn uses Lippert axles and brakes that I had Lippert axles and brakes.
 

jpmorgan37

Well-known member
Lippert builds the frames and supplies them to Heartland. They use several different axle manufacturers for their axles and brakes. You should have a tag on your axles telling who the manufacturer of the axle is. As is the case with any manufacturer, you might find some different suppliers for the same part. At any rate, the brake adjusting procedure is basically the same for any of the suppliers, so the info in the Dexter manual should apply.

John
 

Ray LeTourneau

Senior Member - Past Moderator
Here is the instruction directly from the Lippert Manual. "Bearing grease should be replaced every 12 months or 12,000 miles, whichever comes first".

"Lippert brakes are manually adjustable only. Initially the brakes should be adjusted at 200 miles of operation. Next, check and adjust brakes at 3,000 mile intervals or sooner if they are not performing as intended".

This is right from the Lippert book. The brakes are adjusted just like automotive drums in that they have a star wheel adjuster accessible from the lower rear of the backing plate.
 

Lambchop

member
As a propective buyer of a Big Horn, I can't understand why Lippert would want you to change the axle grease every year? Most of the other brand axles recommend a couple of shots of grease per year or 12,000 miles. That's of course if you have the outer zerk fittings. These units have a special seal that prevents the grease from going inside the brake drum.

Ray, did your axle have the double seal? Probably why they cost so much. Of course repacking by hand gives you peace of mine or it's just a preference.

Lambchop
Retired with 35 years in the auto repair business
 

Ray LeTourneau

Senior Member - Past Moderator
Lambchop,
I don't think it was a double seal but I didn't look that close. Yes, peace of mind was the main reason for doing the bearings & seals. I tried the old school way of removing the seal using the inner bearing but still caused the spring surrounding the seal to bend a bit. I also don't get the frequency for bearing maint. at 12K. But hey! They wrote the book. It's probably one of those cover yer *** deals. If you have bearing issues and it can be determined you didn't do scheduled maintenance they're off the hook??? I've had several trailers that didn't get greased for 3 years and had no problems. Of course that doesn't mean they didn't need it.
 

BluegrassMan

Well-known member
Guy's:
On this bearing greasing thing, "they" tell you to do it yearly or by milage. I hadn't greased my other trailer for about 3 years or more,(I also didn't use it alot during that time). Anyway FINALLY when I did pull everything apart, there was "like new" amounts of grease in there! Grease was all around the rollers too. So much for the yearly theory! I did "hand pack" each bearing, just for good measure..... USE good quality high temp bearing grease. I used Castrol brand on mine.

Adjusting your brakes is easy, ONCE you get the tire off the floor and roll under the trailer. You can use a brake "spoon" or a flat screwdriver. At the bottom of the backing plate is a slot about an inch wide or so. Sometimes there is a rubber plug in it sometimes not. Stick the tool in the slot and contact the adjuster (it has teeth on it like a gear). Pry with the tool handle from bottom to top of stroke rolling the adjuster wheel. You will know when you turn your tire and it starts to drag, the brake lining is getting out to the drum surface. Some tech's turn them till the tire locks up then backs them back off. I usually just go till it drags lightly. Believe me you can tell a difference the next time you go out with the trailer!!!!

If you are mechanically challanged, you can just pay your tech to adjust them. I'm too cheap for that, that cost will buy you and your DW dinner out, that's more fun in my book.
 
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