Regarding Forward Bulkhead Wrinkles

In another thread members were discussing the apparent delamination or separation of the overhang cover (bulkhead) of their rigs. I posted how I didn't think mine was caused by water intrusion although since the storage area is basically open to the elements it is possible but I don't see water in this area.

Since these things tend to bug the crap out of me...I decided to investigate a little further today after work. My wrinkles are pretty much only in the front part of the storage area at the bottom (see photo) The top has a few imperfections but nothing out of the ordinary. After I looked, examined, pushed and poked, I believe I found the culprit! There is a broken weld in the bulkhead frame (storage door frame).

Hopefully this is the issue. I don't think i will bother trying to find an aluminum welder but rather fix it with an L bracket and some pop rivets! If it doesn't secure it I will pursue the weld fix!

Steve, do you have a theory on how the broken weld caused the wrinkes?

No I really don't but the fiberboard material is loose compared to when I push the weld back into place. This is a brand new problem that just happened a few weeks ago. All of a sudden, the wrinkles appeared...as a matter of fact, I first noticed it at our WA State Rally on the 19th of August! I suppose it could be coincidence but I do believe the broken weld is at the least a contributing factor especially since there are no wrinkles elsewhere.

Steve, there is alot of twisting in that area. "L" brackets might work for awhile but me thinks welding would be a better option. Maybe Weld some "L" shaped gussets there also. JMHO

I'm the one that posted the issue I was having about my water damage and the fiberglass separating in the same area. I now know that it's not fiberglass in that "bulhead" area. It's laminated particle board with
water damage, causing it to begin to warp. I also have a 'sticky' storage compartment door that I was assuming was part of the whole warpage issue. Now, after Steve's post, I'm going to check my welds in the storage area as well. It could be a combination of things.

Bob&Patty said:

Steve, there is alot of twisting in that area. "L" brackets might work for awhile but me thinks welding would be a better option. Maybe Weld some "L" shaped gussets there also. JMHO

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Just talked with a couple of RV Service Centers and none will weld aluminum! Next stop is manufacturing places in the area. Aluminum welders are at a premium in this part of the state. Not only hard to find a quality one but also very, very pricy!

I am wondering if they can weld this without damaging the finish of the fiberboard with excessive heat?

djg57 said:

I also have a 'sticky' storage compartment door that I was assuming was part of the whole warpage issue. Now, after Steve's post, I'm going to check my welds in the storage area as well. It could be a combination of things.

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I would be very interested in what you find! Please let us know!

SJH said:

Just talked with a couple of RV Service Centers and none will weld aluminum! Next stop is manufacturing places in the area. Aluminum welders are at a premium in this part of the state. Not only hard to find a quality one but also very, very pricy!

I am wondering if they can weld this without damaging the finish of the fiberboard with excessive heat?

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I am no welder but TIG welders have become so inexpensive recently it seems like you wouldn't have a problem finding a local welder than would do that job for a few hundred bucks, tops. It looks like a simple enough job for any welder. The TIG process(for welding aluminum) is pretty easy as well, no splatter and not too much heat that could hurt the fiberglass exterior.

Since I don't have a TIG machine, I would use a couple pieces of 2"x2"x1/4" aluminum angle and a few #14 self tapping sheetmetal screws and make two brackets. Seems like that would hold.

Good luck,

John

I wouldn't want to take a chance on damaging the skin by welding it. I would choose the aluminum angle gussets as well. I would go one step farther and go with some stainless steel screws also, although some aluminum pop rivets could work as well. It would be as strong as a weld and would offer a better chance of the joint flexing a bit also....Don

SJH said:

No I really don't but the fiberboard material is loose compared to when I push the weld back into place. This is a brand new problem that just happened a few weeks ago. All of a sudden, the wrinkles appeared...as a matter of fact, I first noticed it at our WA State Rally on the 19th of August! I suppose it could be coincidence but I do believe the broken weld is at the least a contributing factor especially since there are no wrinkles elsewhere.

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The welds on these units are all done with a mig wire feed welder and most of the welds are crap as you can see by your broken weld. Finding somebody that has a Hi-Freek Tig unit might not be easy. I have a Tig welder but don't have the high frequency unit for it, I can weld alum with my mig wire feed I think, never tried it with the unit I have now. As far as heat goes, can you get some air gap between the aluminum structure and the glass panels. If so you can get it welded without burning the glass. I think they are just installed with screws from the back side.
Is this unit still under warranty?? Take it back to the dealer none of these welds should ever break apart if done right the first time. Now I'm curious and will see if I can run aluminum wire in my mig welder.

rebootsemi said:

Is this unit still under warranty?? .

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Not under warranty anymore...about six months past! Funny how things start falling apart after the first 12 months. I know that there are some manufacturers that gusset and screw the entire aluminum frame so I am not sure rewelding is the only option. Much easier to fix myself rather than drag the 5ver around the county. I guess it is my ignorance and my age...but $200 for a 10 minute weld seems expensive to me. I understand paying for the skill/knowledge and equipment etc but $20 will buy a lot of stainless screws and some aluminum gusset material I can probably find at a friends shop. Not sure yet how I will fix it but I will update when I do!

Thanks All!

SJH said:

...but $200 for a 10 minute weld seems expensive to me. I understand paying for the skill/knowledge...

Thanks All!

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Haha, I know what you mean. I just got a bill for a surgery procedure that took 5 minutes in the doctors office...980 bucks.

SJH said:

Not under warranty anymore...about six months past! Funny how things start falling apart after the first 12 months. I know that there are some manufacturers that gusset and screw the entire aluminum frame so I am not sure rewelding is the only option. Much easier to fix myself rather than drag the 5ver around the county. I guess it is my ignorance and my age...but $200 for a 10 minute weld seems expensive to me. I understand paying for the skill/knowledge and equipment etc but $20 will buy a lot of stainless screws and some aluminum gusset material I can probably find at a friends shop. Not sure yet how I will fix it but I will update when I do!

Thanks All!

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$200 per hr shop time is not out of the question these days, just think about all of the regulations and crap a business has to put up with, back in the 90's I used to charge $150 to hit the switch on the welder. Go get some aluminum angle and cut and prep your own gussets, I think I would SS pop rivets instead of screws as these pieces are so thin they might not hold a screw, will end up being stronger than the original joint with the crap weld.

rebootsemi said:

$200 per hr shop time is not out of the question these days, just think about all of the regulations and crap a business has to put up with, back in the 90's I used to charge $150 to hit the switch on the welder. Go get some aluminum angle and cut and prep your own gussets, I think I would SS pop rivets instead of screws as these pieces are so thin they might not hold a screw, will end up being stronger than the original joint with the crap weld.

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Thanks! I will use ss pop rivets! What thickness (mil?) of gusset material would you suggest?

SJH said:

Thanks! I will use ss pop rivets! What thickness (mil?) of gusset material would you suggest?

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If you used 3/16" thick would be probably more than enough, just make sure you make the vertical and horz legs long enough around 4" or so you can get 4 or 5 rivets in each side. You will have to find extruded angle to get legs that long. If you have a metal recycler/scrap joint near you that is where I would start, I check the price @ McMaster-Carr online and wow aluminum has gone up they want $77 got 4 ft. Give it a try and you could always have it welded later if needed.

I have been thinking about this issue...ripples in the fiberboard bulkhead. After I fix the broken frame member I was wondering if it would be possible to cover the lower bulkhead with diamond plate? It would cover the wrinkles/ripples and probably look quite nice as well. Has anyone done this?