Propane Issues

JETJDM79

Member
We recently had a leak at the red regulator and replaced it. We also replaced the auto change over valve with regulator on our 2010 Cyclone. The system seemed to work for the last two trips but recently failed, again.

Even thou we have full propane bottles the auto change over valve will not turn "green". None of our appliances will work. I just can believe that we had the bad luck of losing 2 auto change over regulators in 2 years... I am wondering if anyone has experienced something similiar?

Thank you!

Justin
 

boatto5er

Founding VA Chap Ldr (Ret)
It's been a long time since I "read up" on the system but here's what I think should happen: With both tanks valves turned to open, the selector valve is positioned to one of the tank lines. If that tank has propane in it, the indicator on the switch will turn green. When the first tank runs out of propane, the indicator will stay red, but the switch will automatically switch over to the second tank. If that tank has propane you shouldn't know you have run out of propane without checking the indicator. You switch the indicator to the second tank, get the first refilled, and repeat the process.
 

Ray LeTourneau

Senior Member - Past Moderator
I've replaced the main regulator once. It became almost impossible to change the black direction indicator valve.
Could it be that you are opening the tank valve too fast? I know if they are opened too fast, it will trip the safety device that's built in to the valve.
To reset, close the valve, remove the big connector and then re-attach it. Then open the valve very slowly. Other than that, I'm at a loss for info.
 

rick_debbie_gallant

Well-known member
Could it be that I are in "limp mode". By limp mode I mean is it possible that too much fuel was flowing when the valves were opened. I have hade that happened a few times and had to reset the EFV.
 

TandT

Founding Utah Chapter Leaders-Retired
My auto change valve never looks green.
It has a red area that moves across a clear window. It turns completely red when the tank it is pointing to is empty. It will then change to the remaining full tank, which will also go to red when it empties.
I guess what I'm saying is, just because the OP doesn't see green, may not be a problem in itself. Trace
 
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GOTTOYS

Well-known member
I've replaced the main regulator once. It became almost impossible to change the black direction indicator valve.
Could it be that you are opening the tank valve too fast? I know if they are opened too fast, it will trip the safety device that's built in to the valve.
To reset, close the valve, remove the big connector and then re-attach it. Then open the valve very slowly. Other than that, I'm at a loss for info.
I've had this happen also. When opening the valves turn them very s-l-o-w-l-y so the system doesn't think it has a leak and shut down. Worked for me...Don
 

JohnDar

Prolifically Gabby Member
Seems to me that when Tank #1 goes empty, the indicator changes from green to red, and the valve auto-switches over to Tank #2. You come out, see the red, curse a bit, and turn the pointer over to Tank #2 and the indicator turns green again. Then you turn off Tank #1, remove from rig, get your wallet and keys, load said tank into truck, and go foraging for propane.

After plunking down $30 for a refill, you return to trailer, reinstall Tank #1 and turn it on. When Tank #2 empties, the whole process repeats itself. So long as the system is being fed propane from the tank the selector is set to, the indicator should be green.

Whatever you do, do not set the selector to the middle position or you may find out what two empty tanks at the same time is all about. The lesson is usually learned on a cold night, shortly after the closest propane refill stations have closed. Did I mention foraging?

If we've been using the furnace, I make it a point to take a peek inside the propane cabinet each morning.
 

KLB

Member
We recently had a leak at the red regulator and replaced it. We also replaced the auto change over valve with regulator on our 2010 Cyclone. The system seemed to work for the last two trips but recently failed, again.

Even thou we have full propane bottles the auto change over valve will not turn "green". None of our appliances will work. I just can believe that we had the bad luck of losing 2 auto change over regulators in 2 years... I am wondering if anyone has experienced something similiar?

Thank you!

Justin


I too have had several regulators go bad. The original one leaked at the switch over valve as soon as I got my rig home. Since then I have replaced the single stage on the drivers side twice until a tech told me to mount it with the vent in the down position and condensation will cause the vent to corrode out. I have also just replaced the auto change valve for the second time due to leaks in the valve. I am currently searching for a high quality regulator that a company will stand behind. Propane is to costly to lose.
 

danemayer

Well-known member
I was having a problem with running the furnace last week, but only from the doorside. Switching tanks didn't change anything. After reading up I decided it must be the doorside regulator. Stopped at a dealer to buy a new one and the tech suggested getting a new pigtail as well since they have a built-in check valve that can also fail. I replaced both and everything's fine now.
 

ann37

Member
I know this not what the subject is but I am new and do not know how to post my own. We are having a problem with our propane tanks frezzing, any ideas what the problem could be. Thanks
 

cookie

Administrator
Staff member
In cold weather it is normal to see frost on the side of the tank that is being used.
Is this what you are seeing?

Peace
Dave
Sent from my DROID RAZR using Tapatalk 2
 

mikeandconnie

Well-known member
My 09 Landmark, I always had trouble when I refilled my tanks. I had to open the valve slowly and wait 15 minutes before lighting the oven. Sometimes I had to unscrew the connector and bleed the pressure off and start again.
 

wdk450

Well-known member
I know this not what the subject is but I am new and do not know how to post my own. We are having a problem with our propane tanks frezzing, any ideas what the problem could be. Thanks

Ann 37:
First of all, I hope you understand that what you buy when refilling the propane tanks is LIQUID propane under high pressure. What all of your appliances use is GASEOUS propane under low pressure. As you use propane, the liquid propane in the tank at the liquid's surface evaporates into gaseous propane. This causes cooling, just as when a breeze hits sweaty skin and evaporates the water. This cooling at the propane surface is transferred through the metal of the propane tank container to cause the freezing sweat you see on the outside of the propane container. This shouldn't cause any problems.
Propane gas with water moisture freezing in a propane regulator valve will cause problems. Good quality propane is free of water.
 

2psnapod2

Texas-South Chapter Leaders-Retired
Could it be a tank that has been filled with too much liquid? Just a thought. Here is a bit of info I found on the web.

Overfilling Issues


  • A matter that may complicate the frosting issue is an overfilled propane tank. When tanks are overfilled, the liquid propane is close to the OPD valve. This region is where the pressure between the outside and the inside of the tank meet. When liquid propane hits this threshold, frost may form within the valve itself. The only real solution is to bleed the propane tank to let some propane out. This would require the help of a professional.



Read more: What Causes a Propane Tank to Frost Up? | eHow.com http://www.ehow.com/info_8159958_causes-propane-tank-frost-up.html#ixzz29KGPqp5s
 

rick_debbie_gallant

Well-known member
As the propane tank is exposed to colder and colder air temps the amount of gas being produced becomes less and less. The warmer the temp becomes the more gas is produced. At freezing temps not much gas is boiling off. I have been thinking about putting a lightbulb in the propane tank compartment if it ever gets really cold outside, that way there should be enough heat generated to keep the gas flowing. I think that makes sense anyway.
 

wdk450

Well-known member
I would stop by (or call) a professional propane service like Suburban Propane, or whatever brand has an office in your area, and ask them.
 

Willym

Well-known member
Rick,

The boiling point of propane is -42C, (-44F) Unless you are camping in the winter way up north you don't need to aid the propane vaporization process. The pressure in the tank will drop a bit as the ambient temperature drops, but the regulator will work to maintain the correct pressure in the supply lines to the various loads.

As the propane tank is exposed to colder and colder air temps the amount of gas being produced becomes less and less. The warmer the temp becomes the more gas is produced. At freezing temps not much gas is boiling off. I have been thinking about putting a lightbulb in the propane tank compartment if it ever gets really cold outside, that way there should be enough heat generated to keep the gas flowing. I think that makes sense anyway.
 
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