I have enough HP but do I have enough truck?

Hi everybody I just purchased a new 3912 Cyclone and am wondering if I will be getting a ticket. I own a 2001 Dodge 3/4 ton 4x4 with firestone bags installed and about 900ft/lb at the rear wheels. It is the extended cab shortbox model. Any help would be great.
 

jpmorgan37

Well-known member
I felt that I was in the same boat last year. My 2500 HD would pull me anywhere, anytime. It was stopping that had me concerned. Coming down two lane mountain roads (8 & 9% grades) with 8 tons pushing a 3/4 ton truck just was not my idea of having a great ending to another good day. I wouldn't recommend anything less than a 1 ton dually. JMHO.

John
 

BluegrassMan

Well-known member
Hello Cycloneraptor:
I know exactly what you are saying. I almost put my rig in a big ball in a median on I-79S. You are correct, BRAKES are the most important thing to consider. Even with a 1-ton, you are up against the CGVW when loaded heavy. I hope the "man" doesn't adapt policy to start checking RVers, there will be alot of us S.O.L. I'm still waiting till I'm clear to order my F-450. That sucker has 15" brake rotors all the way around, and is rated to pull 24.5K lbs. My patience is running thin......
 

katkens

Founding Illinios Chapter Leader-retired
jpmorgan37 said:
I felt that I was in the same boat last year. My 2500 HD would pull me anywhere, anytime. It was stopping that had me concerned. Coming down two lane mountain roads (8 & 9% grades) with 8 tons pushing a 3/4 ton truck just was not my idea of having a great ending to another good day. I wouldn't recommend anything less than a 1 ton dually. JMHO.

John

GM Brake Specs: Rear Drum Size--2500HD = 13.0 x 1.1 in
3500HD=SRW 13.0 x 1.1 in.
3500HD=DRW 12.8 x 1.2 in.

Front Rotor All= 12.8 x 1.5in.

Where does the 1 ton get more stopping power? Ken
 

mufflerman

Well-known member
I don't know where you got these specs, but they are not correct. I have to head off to work but I will get back with correct specs.
 

Forrest Fetherolf

Senior Member
katkens,

The brake specs you posted are very very correct as per GM's spec charts. This is what I have been saying all along. Some folks are under the false pretense that a 3500 dually will stop quicker, more stable and is safer, not so, it will haul more weight and you do have two spare tires on the ground, but that is all. More load, smaller brakes, doesn't add up to stop quicker, more stable, and is safer.

Forrest
 

katkens

Founding Illinios Chapter Leader-retired
Forrest Fetherolf said:
katkens,

The brake specs you posted are very very correct as per GM's spec charts. This is what I have been saying all along. Some folks are under the false pretense that a 3500 dually will stop quicker, more stable and is safer, not so, it will haul more weight and you do have two spare tires on the ground, but that is all. More load, smaller brakes, doesn't add up to stop quicker, more stable, and is safer.

Forrest

I think if one has there trailer brakes and a GOOD brake controller set right, there should be no problem braking and controlling ones rig. Thanks Forrest. ---Ken
 
C

Chulinw

Guest
I have a Prodigy brake controller and it works great after I got it set. I will increase the settings a little more in the mountains for a little faster response. It is my personal preferance with the brakes on the 5er braking more. I am very happy having a dual rear wheels on my truck and I think I always will as long as I keep traveling.
 

mufflerman

Well-known member
Katkens,
I guess I learned something today, I know the early dually's had a thicker rotor to help prevent warping, they must use the thick rotors on the 2500's also. Thanks for the info.
 

Forrest Fetherolf

Senior Member
katkens said:
I think if one has there trailer brakes and a GOOD brake controller set right, there should be no problem braking and controlling ones rig. Thanks Forrest. ---Ken

katkens,

I agree with you again for the second time today. The ultimate brake controller is the one in the driver's seat. I have seen some work better than others.

Forrest
 
Thanks for the responses everybody. My new cyclone will be showing up withing the next ten days and i guess then i will have a better idea uf how my truck will haul the trailer. On the farm I use my truck to pull a 35ft gooseneck trailler loaded with 2 1500 gallon water tanks on it. I think the combined weight of that set up is around 30k. I usually only have to travel 15 to 20 miles with it loaded and it has always handled it fine, with the exception of having to stop on gravel roads. I think it will handle the new trailer ok but I would like to trade up for a new D 450.The thing is i hate to get rid of my 2500 it has been flawless for the last 6 years and think I could get another 5 or 6 years out of it without putting any more into it other than brakes oil etc. Is anyone else pulling one of these big tripple axle trailers with a 2500? Thanks again
 

Liesl_s

Member
We haven't towed our 3-axle 5th wheel yet, but will be once we take delivery of it and we will be towing it with a GMC 2500 diesel. I can say that our reading of the owner's manual for the truck shows that the 3500 is not rated to tow any more than the 2500. There was not information for a 4500 in the book, so I can't give specs for that. The combined weight (truck & trailer) for the 2500 and 3500 was 23,200 lbs. We will be pretty much at that point with the 5th wheel, but since we have no immediate plans to travel long distances or any where in the mountains, we feel this will be fine for a few years until we are ready to venture into other areas of the country. At that point I'm sure we will need to upgrade the truck.
 

jbeletti

Well-known member
Liesl_s,

Congratulations on your purchase and welcome to the family. What model and floor plan did you get?

You'll get a fair amount of feedback on the question of this thread "do I have enough truck". Once you load up your trailer with your stuff, connect to the truck and drive across a CAT scale, you can then compare your actual weights, by axle, pin and overall to your truck and trailer ratings. Then you'll have a better sense of where you are at and what your capabilities are.

If you find that loaded, you are under your truck's Gross Combination Vehicle Weight Rating (GCVWR), take a look at the trucks rear axle rating and compare that to the Drive Axle weight from the CAT weight ticket.

Jim
 

Forrest Fetherolf

Senior Member
liesl s,

The "combined gross weight" for a 2500 or 3500 is 22,000 lbs. The 3500 with dual rear wheels is 23,500. The most important thing is not to over load your tires. Each state seems to have their own rules to determine over-weight vehicles. As Jim B. stated, it is important to weigh you rv on the CAT scales to know your actual weight on tires, axles, gross tow vehicle weight, gross towed vehicle weight, and total combined vehicle weight.

Forrest
 

Forrest Fetherolf

Senior Member
liesl s,

The "combined gross weight" for a 2500 or 3500 is 22,000 lbs. The 3500 with dual rear wheels is 23,500. The most important thing is not to over load your tires. Each state seems to have their own rules to determine over-weight vehicles. As Jim B. stated, it is important to weigh you rv on the CAT scales to know your actual weight on tires, axles, gross tow vehicle weight, gross towed vehicle weight, and total combined vehicle weight. This information is valuable for safety reasons and possibility of an over-weight ticket.

Forrest
 
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