Might be the happiest day of my life---4th to my 2 kids being born and selling my 1st boat---yea trading in my POS Bighorn. After all of my refer problems being solved, a month ago we had an electrical problem that sent 238v thru all of my receptacles frying my microwave and transfer switch. Fixed that, then last week my converter was fried due to power surge. Then, the great wisdom of my dealer told the ext. warranty people that there was moisture in the converter so they wouldn't cover it or anything else that was blown. The "moisture" was actually oil from the capacitors that were blown from the 230+ volts going thru it. Dealer told me to make an insurance claim for there was nothing more he or Heartland could do since my unit is nearly 2 years old. Even after I told him it has been a POS since day one, WITH ALL OF MY ISSUES DOCUMENTED. Now they have over 20 hrs.+ of labor with no diagnosis and it appears it will all be on me. I hope Jim B. reads this as I have had it with Heartland and all of their accomplices. I know I am probably the only 1% of unsatisfied customers, but when it is you, IT REALLY SUCKS. Steve A. Dagro
Happy Days? MAYBE SO
- Thread starter sdagro
- Start date
readytohitheroad
Well-known member
would have thought that surge supressors would be a standard feature on these rigs?
2psnapod2
Texas-South Chapter Leaders-Retired
If we were looking for a super expensive trailer, with all the should be's on it, it would have cost more than we could have afforded. So to me it makes sense to not make all these, should be on's standard. Gives you the ability to add on these items when you can afford them.
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Delaine and Lindy
Well-known member
No RV hooked to a RV Park pedestal power source should not be used without a Surge protector... I find it hard to believe 238 volts were produced inside the BH, the power source came from a outside source.... But really sorry for all the issues..... Might be time to fix the issue, but buy a Surge Protector before hooking up to a RV park power source.... Happy Trails....
I know I am jumping the gun here, but could the EMS HW50C be mounted in the basement where I will be removing the transfer switch?
boatto5er
Founding VA Chap Ldr (Ret)
Mine is mounted in the basement near the circuit panel. I also have the remote display that I mounted temporarily in the closet above the panel, but I'm thinking about moving it into the storage bay near my level-up control since that's whhere I'll be right after hooking up to the power pedestal.
Ray LeTourneau
Senior Member - Past Moderator
Steve, Sorry to hear of your ongoing issues. Were you having any consistent GFI issues? That might have signaled an open ground situation for sure. I can assure you, anyone related to the park will want to point the blame to the rig to eliminate the possibility of your insurance going after the park for damages. When I work camped in CA, there were a few problems caused by the parks system and the owner ended up replacing quite a few electronically controlled devices.
If you do end up trading, I sincerely hope you can find a trouble free RV.
If you do end up trading, I sincerely hope you can find a trouble free RV.
Hi Ray,
No GFI problems at all prior to this. It has happened 3 different locations as well. 1st time fried transfer switch. Some say the fried neutral wire that fried(causing open neutral) backfed and killed microwave . Not sure if it fried from surge or it was the problem. Once I get the payment(payee/payer) issue solved, plan is to omit the transfer switch that I do not need as I have no generator. Also several people have pointed to the power reel(brushes) as the culprit. That would be great as it would be easy to omit and put in a twist lock system and also EW would cover that as it is an electrical component.
JohnDar
Prolifically Gabby Member
Although I think you said you were getting rid of the 3670, the best place I've found for the Progressive EMS HW50C is mounted on a plywood panel affixed to the side of the bedroom stair frame, down behind the basement wall. You can put the remote display anywhere you like. Relocate your converter there, too. Putting a removeable panel in the wall makes them accessible and they'll be out of harm's way should a water leak develop. I've posted photos of my mounting before, but will again if you like.
JohnDar
Prolifically Gabby Member
Steve asked for a replay of my photos and relocation of the converter and suppressor. For some reason, I can not attach photos in the PM section, only web URL's. I get the same when replying to a post unless I go "advanced."
Anyways, I initially had my dealer install the surge suppressor since they still had it in storage before I took possession. I wasn't sure what was involved, but learned later it was no big deal. They had installed it directly behind the circuit breaker panel, which made it a nightmare to get to. Heartland had installed the converter near the back wall of the basement, directly under the anti-siphon valve, with the fan and fuses facing the wall. Again, not good. So I mounted a section of 3/4" plywood to the stair frame and mounted both units to it. I also made two removeable panels in the wall sections so I can get at the units, as well as inspect the plumbing behind the UDC. I faced the fan and fuses on the converter towards the opening and reused the small grille that was in the wall. There was enough excess wiring on the converter that I didn't need to do anything other than reconnect it after moving it. The power cord still reaches the outlet it was plugged into. I did have to add a length of 6/3 w/g cable for the suppressor to reach from the mount to the circuit breaker panel. I had some left over from wiring my garage "workshop" a couple of years ago.
The first photo, my dreaded "Basement o' Doom" photo, the converter is just visible between the drain from the toilet and the step frame. The suppressor is where I moved it initially. The second photo is the new mounting for both units. Third photo is the access to the converter/suppressor area, and the last is the access panels I put into the basement wall. Initially, they were held in place with pieces of wood, but I've changed them both to barrel bolts, as in the third photo.
The dealer mounted the remote display for the suppressor in the electrical cabinet inside the rig. I've left it there. I also installed a Charge Wizard Pendant in the cabinet, to tell me what the converter is doing.
Anyways, I initially had my dealer install the surge suppressor since they still had it in storage before I took possession. I wasn't sure what was involved, but learned later it was no big deal. They had installed it directly behind the circuit breaker panel, which made it a nightmare to get to. Heartland had installed the converter near the back wall of the basement, directly under the anti-siphon valve, with the fan and fuses facing the wall. Again, not good. So I mounted a section of 3/4" plywood to the stair frame and mounted both units to it. I also made two removeable panels in the wall sections so I can get at the units, as well as inspect the plumbing behind the UDC. I faced the fan and fuses on the converter towards the opening and reused the small grille that was in the wall. There was enough excess wiring on the converter that I didn't need to do anything other than reconnect it after moving it. The power cord still reaches the outlet it was plugged into. I did have to add a length of 6/3 w/g cable for the suppressor to reach from the mount to the circuit breaker panel. I had some left over from wiring my garage "workshop" a couple of years ago.
The first photo, my dreaded "Basement o' Doom" photo, the converter is just visible between the drain from the toilet and the step frame. The suppressor is where I moved it initially. The second photo is the new mounting for both units. Third photo is the access to the converter/suppressor area, and the last is the access panels I put into the basement wall. Initially, they were held in place with pieces of wood, but I've changed them both to barrel bolts, as in the third photo.
The dealer mounted the remote display for the suppressor in the electrical cabinet inside the rig. I've left it there. I also installed a Charge Wizard Pendant in the cabinet, to tell me what the converter is doing.
readytohitheroad
Well-known member
Would agree in general but if the absence of some item from the standard list exposes one's rig to total destruction it argues for inclusion one the standard list. IMHO.
John, Those access panels are a great idea. I'm going to steal your idea and install a couple of them in my Key Largo basement this summer. I'm thinking I need a surge protector also. Never really thought about it until I read all these posts. Thanks, Ken
JohnDar
Prolifically Gabby Member
Send me three box tops and two box bottoms along with a cashier's check for a zillion bucks and I'll give you the patent. The panels make it possible to see what's going on back there without emptying the basement and crawling into it.
Most, if not all of the mods I've done to my rig were lifted from the posts of others. I just seem to have more photos.
OK guys, I know this is a drastic approach, but if I replace the power cord reel with twist lock system, change out my original cord as well as the 6-2 going from reel to circuit breaker box as well as all breakers AND panel and instal the EM? Delete transfer switch since I have no genny, would this just about guarantee me the problem is fixed. I figure I can hire a retired tech to do all of these swap-outs and would be cheaper than $110/hr diagnostic labor fee from dealer who can't find the problem because it is sporadic. Is there anything else I should change out? Problem can't be beyond the breaker panel...can it? Also would be cheaper than trading, since they don't even want to give me what I owe on it. Thanks in advance for your replies. Steve A. Dagro
wdk450
Well-known member
Steve:
Your comprehensive attack on the A.C. supply wiring and devices seems to cover every possibility. The two hot feeds and the neutral are terminated at the breaker buss, so no open neutral causing high voltage to devices should happen beyond there.
Sorry you are the guy that had to have the really bad experiences to pull the overall curve down. I guess you have read the postings from the owners who have never had a single problem. It just feels like God is picking on you when you get to be the guy on the other end of the scale.
I wish you 10 times your problems in happy RVing times in the future.
P.S. The EMS system will cut power to the trailer when you use most portable generators as a power source due to the fact most all portable generators sold in the U.S. do not have the neutral and ground connected (bonded). The EMS is looking for this connection (thinking all wiring is shore power which requires this connection at the pedistal). The quick fix I have found on other RVing sites is to take a standard 5-15 power plug, wire a jumper from the neutral blade (wider flat blade) screw to the ground pin screw. Plug this in to the 2nd, unused outlet on the generator when you plug in your trailer power cord. This will provide the neutral-ground connection at the power source the EMS is looking for.
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