window leak

wntrgrn1

Member
The rear right window on our BigHorn 3675 leaks. Some how water is finding it's way to come in under the bottom of the window.
 

jimtoo

Moderator
Hi wntrgrn1,

Welcome to the Heartland Owners Forum and to the family. We have a great bunch of people here with lots of information and all willing to share their knowledge if needed.

Check the outside around the frame bottom. There is drain holes, slots. Make sure they are open and not plugged with caulking.

Enjoy the forum.

Jim M
 

jbeletti

Well-known member
... Some how water is finding it's way to come in under the bottom of the window.

As jimtoo suggests, window caulking (top and a bit down the sides) is critical - as are clear weep holes in the bottom frame.

If those are not the culprit, since water is appearing to come in under the window, consider also, the possibility of seal breach elsewhere that is allowing water to migrate it's way to the window area and leak out. Start on the roof and inspect the caulking/sealant around everything up there, especially where the front and rear caps meet the room and where the rain gutter is attached to the side of the RV. A seal void up top can allow water in. Once in, it will find it's way into the coach. Where it will flow is dependent on a lot of variable. But I've heard of water coming out near a window, where the window itself was not the cause. The cause was up top.

Best of luck and stay after it until you find it.

Jim
 

CactusTwo

Active Member
I am a glass man and as JimB and Jimtwo said is right on the money. Water does NOT travel uphill, unless in outerspace, so look up....way up and keep those drain hole open
 

wntrgrn1

Member
Thanks for the info. Since the unit was under warranty we took it to ExlposeUSA in Boerne Tx. The tech applied sealant to the putside framroof e and declared it fixed,we'll watch it. But in the process one of the service rep's went up on the roof where her discovered I had repaired a small break in the rubber roof with tape. He declared that any such repair voids the warranty on the roof and that we should contact our insurance co. to cover the cost of them replacing the roof. The insurance co. has yet to inspect the roof. It looks like a tree limb caused the break in the memberbrane which about the size of dime and also left some very minor marks in the roof that the service rep. said will lead to failure. The owners manual mentions using tape on roof repairs. I'm getting the feeling that the repair shop is looking at making some fast bucks. Your thoughts would be appreciated.

Thanks
 

cookie

Administrator
Staff member
I was up on the roof the other day looking around and found two dime size cuts. I think they happened when the guy washed the roof.
Anyway, I put a couple pieces of Eternabond tape on and will add some self leveling sealant over them when I get home. I expect that will last the life of the roof. With regular inspections that is.

Peace
Dave
 

chris4905

Member
Wntrgrn1-

I too have a window leaking water and removed it yesterday.

My leaking Bighorn 2985RL window was on the side of one of the slides. I don't believe the location of the window matters, as they all mount and seal the same. Mine was leaking water which was soaking the carpet.

I used a garden hose to spray the window suspected of leading, being careful not to spray any other area, in an attempt to isolate the leak. After spraying the window I checked the carpet and it was wet. No surprise....but this confirmed my suspicion that this was the window which was leaking.

I removed the window. The window has a thin rubber gasket running around the entire flange which mates to the outside skin of the trailer, on the outside half of the window. The gasket is very thin and I'm not surprised it leaked.

When we got the trailer a year ago, the windows were all installed with the inside ring tightened so snug, it was impossible to slide the sliding portion of the windows. The dealer loosened the screws on the inside portion of the window so the sliding portion of the window (on the bottom of this window) could move up and down. My suspicion is the gasket was compressed when the windows were originally installed, when the dealer loosened the window frame to the slide portion could move, the gasket failed to expand, and it now had a gap allowing water to pass.

If you look at the outside of the window, only the top of the window and the top radius corners are caulked. I believe rain water was allowed to seep in through the sides.

Having the window removed I looked at the bottom of the window opening of the slider. I could see, and feel, wet fiberglass insulation. Now I was really getting the feeling I was on the right track, because the wet insulation showed the water was leaking past the window, and the water was running down the inside portion of the wall, down to the carpet.

Today (Thursday 7/5/12) I talked with the dealer and they confirmed this is a frequent problem. I asked if it was necessary to install a window manufacture replacement gasket and they said no. They told me to use the roll of puddy tape all round the window ridge and if I wanted, also caulk the outside edge of the window, not just the top and top radius.

I'm hoping to install the window tomorrow and I post an update on the results.

From a fellow outdoorsman, hunter & fisherman.
Chris in Idaho
 

danemayer

Well-known member
Thanks for the info. Since the unit was under warranty we took it to ExlposeUSA in Boerne Tx. The tech applied sealant to the putside framroof e and declared it fixed,we'll watch it. But in the process one of the service rep's went up on the roof where her discovered I had repaired a small break in the rubber roof with tape. He declared that any such repair voids the warranty on the roof and that we should contact our insurance co. to cover the cost of them replacing the roof. The insurance co. has yet to inspect the roof. It looks like a tree limb caused the break in the memberbrane which about the size of dime and also left some very minor marks in the roof that the service rep. said will lead to failure. The owners manual mentions using tape on roof repairs. I'm getting the feeling that the repair shop is looking at making some fast bucks. Your thoughts would be appreciated.

Thanks

If you've got a good repair for the prior damage, I wouldn't replace the roof to protect the Dicor Warranty.
The 12 year Dicor warranty on the roof is for the membrane only which retails for maybe $650. Total cost of a roof repair is many thousands of dollars. I wouldn't be surprised if you got an insurance estimate exceeding $7000.

Even if the tech is right that Dicor would deny warranty coverage, the difference would only be $650 out of the total repair cost of a new roof. If you repair the roof, you'll have to pay your deductible, however much that is (maybe more than the $650 of Dicor warranty you're giving up if you don't put on a new roof). And the quality of the new roof installation may not equal the factory install. At the factory, the membrane is installed overlapping in front and rear and then the caps are installed. It's doubtful the new roof would be installed the same way. You might end up getting new front and rear seams that would require extra maintenance and care.

If you haven't already opened an insurance claim, you might want to let sleeping dogs lie.
 

chris4905

Member
I wanted to post a follow-up on how my window repair progressed.

I know this is a fairly old thread, but the subject comes up quite frequently and maybe someone checking achieves may someday find this useful.

I talked with my dealer and they said the windows in my BH2985 were manufactured by Hehr RV Window Company. The dealer also said the company has gone out of business, although they appear to still have an active website. This lead me to believe I didn’t want to tackle trying to locate and order an original window seal.

The dealer said they use plumbers’ tape to repair leaks. If you not familiar with plumbers’ tape it is about 1” wide, comes in a roll, and is very inexpensive. It also works very well when it comes to sealing out water.

I used the plumbers’ tape around the window’s outside edge and re-installed the window.

Used a garden hose to wet all around the window edge. No leaks.

I believe the window reseal has repaired the lead problem.
 
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